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Roosa Master Injector pump with solenoid

A

acny

New User
Hi,

Having trouble getting fuel to injectors on a Hercules 298 ci diesel. Primed OK to injector pump but can't get fuel to injectors. There is an emergency shut down solenoid and I think it is froze up. When I take off the power to the solenoid and touched to the shut down terminal it sparked like a dead short. It appears that the solenoid needs to have constant power to keep it open for fuel flow. Does anyone have experience with the solenoid?

Thanks,
acny
 
i got a similar setup on a JD 350B dozer...only one solenoid to let fuel thru and it requires power to run...if i lose electrics dozer quits NOW!
 


ac,

Has the engine been sitting without running,
Two possibilities ,stuck pumping pistons or the
more serious locked head and rotor.
Send me an email with a phone # , may be I
can help.
george
 
What are we talking about here... just the internal fuel solenoid with the 2 terminals on the cover of the actual Roosa pump, or an external fuel solenoid as well? A Murphy, perhaps?

<img src = "http://i38.tinypic.com/8yhwsn.jpg">
Internal Roosa Master shut-down solenoid


0506c.jpg"

External Murphy fuel solenoid

How about some pictures of what you are working with?
 
You should hear an audible click from the solenoid when power is applied,if not,then its probably shorted.

clean the top of the pump and take te cover off for a look see and test.
it aint rocket science.
 
A seized rotor would've broke the pump shaft the moment you turn the engine over,i had that very thing happen on a oliver 1800 the other day
 
The solenoid does not give positive-engagement, so just because it "clicks", it does not mean it's working. When powered on, it just pulls a swing-arm out of the way, so the spring-loaded fuel metering valve can turn itself on.

As to a short? More often then not, any short is caused by a rotted insulator bushing. There are two that sit on the thread studs from the solenoid that poke through the cover of the pump. Very easy fix. I've yet to see solenoid assembly with a short, although many were accused of it.

You can buy an entire seal kit with all the insulators, o-rings, and seals for $14.
 
Thanks all for your help. The instructions/parts picture I have called the solenoid a "frame assembly" I knew the solenoid had to be there but wasn't sure. I'll take out the solenoid today and let you know what's wrong. If I can't get the solenoid to work can I eliminate it untill I find one? Here is a picture of the pump, etc. I'm pretty sure there is a dead short in the solenoid because of the strong spark and no click. This engine has only 8 hrs on it since new in 1976, it is military surplus 30kw genset. Got it from a neighbor who was going to use it as a standby generator, but never did. Couldn't get it to run. I believe the hours to be true, oil is clean, muffler looks new. It also is a 300A welder.
a20276.jpg

a20277.jpg

a20278.jpg
 
As I already stated, the solenoids rarely short out. That metal threaded 10/32 stud that's in your photo where the wire-lead hooks to has a rubber insulator over it - where it passes through that top cover on the pump. The isulator goes bad over time and can cause a short to ground. You cannot see the insulator until you pull that cover off (via three small bolts).

In regard to eliminating it? Yes, if you take out the solenoid completely, it will run fine without it. You just won't have any sure way of shutting the engine off. You'll have to stall it, or turn the fuel off, or lower the idle so low it dies when you detrottle.
 
I have the internal solenoid, it is 24V. It seems to be weak: when I put 24V to it, it just sparks, but if I help the solenoid pull by putting a little pressure on the lever it will snap shut. Can't find any shorts, the insulators all look good.

I measured the resistance between the two terminals and found 20 ohms. Don't know what this means....

There is a knurled cap that adjusts the angle of the lever. Don't know what to do with that... Does it affect the solenoid?
a20318.jpg

a20319.jpg
 
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