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6 volt generator question

K

krylancelo

New User
I recently purchased a 9n ford tractor with 6volt generator, front mount distributor, and a 8 volt battery in backwards (neg to ground pos to neg side of positive ground system.) it also had 2 red 12 volt battery cables installed to accommodate the 8 volt battery. I had already replaced the cut out switch that was a chard mess and rewired including the neg starting cable to correct colors and voltage and the correct ground braided strap. The generator only puts out 250 mV directly from turning generator on a bench with ac motor, and test probes attached to the field coil on the side of the housing and the ammeter post. should i see 7.4 volts coming from the generator? or should i replace the unit with a new since the incorrect battery hookup?
 
Need to replace the 8v battery with a 6 volt battery! That generator will never fully charge that battery. Lots of posts in the archive in the 9/2/8N Board on this issue.
 
Hi krylancelo: Other post is right about Ford Forum having lots more archived info. By the way, replacing battery cables in a 6 or 8 volt system is helped by using very heavy duty high amperage cables for 6 volts. The standard 12 volt cables don't do near as well in colder weather. Very clean terminals and ALL connections should be very clean... Lots of pro vs con on 6 vs 8 but as long as you already have an 8-volt, why not use it. I have a 1948 6-volt tractor that starts well here in cold MN. ag
 
i think that the field coil is grounded some where. i just took it apart and the paper coating on the field coil is deteriorating and all over the inside of the generator, also the wire leading to the field coil insulation is falling off. the inside is also blackened as if a high voltage was ran through it. other wise the brushes are at 3/4 left. i will probably get a new generator. as for the 8 volt battery i removed it due to it not holding a charge and for not being the proper size voltage wise.
 
Many ford generator systems require power to the F terminal to charge, they are a "B" type system. with the field wire grounded to the frame internally. (some are not, so make certain you are testing it correctly. If a piece of plastic is put under each brush to insulate them, there should still be a ground path from the F terminal to the gen housing. Jim
 
my understanding is that the field coil shouldn't have an open or beep on the meter but have some sort of resistance to the coil on the low end of the ohm scale. However the field coil inside the generator is wire coated with a protective coating that is flaking off due to hi heat. I was able to motor the generator but it was slow and uneven not to mention that there where some significant chips and gouges in the thick part of the armature but the communicator was easily cleaned up with some (00) sandpaper (thanks grandpa) i had increased the output voltage from the generator to 1.5 volts but it is still not enough to place back on the tractor. If I only knew someone that had a growler then i could test for a grounded armature. However, I wonder if i take my chances with picking up a generator from the tractor junkyard for a cheep price on Friday.
 
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