old diesel fuel

I have a cockshutt 40 diesel Planning on starting-up this winter. Have been concerened about NEW diesel fuel in old style pumps- injectors. Today located 20 gallons of 6-7 year old diesel. I would strain through paint filters. What do you fellow think save it or brum brush???

I vote for burning brush with old fuel. When it comes to an injection system, I think newer is better. And there are all kinds of additives to spruce it up.

make sure fuel is CLEAN and NO WATER.add some fuel conditioner or a quart of oil- or both.make sure the tractor hasnew fuel filters.you shuold be just fine

No worries. As stated, strain it, remove water and add a fuel conditioner. It"ll run fine. You can also mix in some fresh fuel.

I"ve ran tractors on diesel fuel older than that with no problems.

Quit listening to the "experts" at the donut shop! You can run ULSD in your tractor. If you just have to do something, run some B20 in it or mix it with 2 cycle oil.

The only time I buy diesel is when I am more than 250 miles from home. Otherwise I use salvaged home heating oil of undetermined age. Some of the stuff I get is actually clear because it is so old. Would that make it 20 years old?

Don't worry. Draw the fuel six inches from the bottom if using a large tank. If using buckets, siphon hose should be 2" from bottom. Because I have plenty of it, I also add 20% used refridgeration oil.

I know a guy 15 miles from me runs his tractor on strait used veg oil. when he's out makin hay you can smell the french fries.He slick talked a couple of restaraunts and we could'nt even get a pail full for bear bait.

My JD R sat in an old garage in North Dakota for 13 years with fuel that was who knows how old, and it popped right off when we pulled it out. Ran on one cylinder for a few seconds, then the other one caught and away she went. I didn't even plan on it starting. I slowly pushed in on the clutch with it in gear to see if the engine still turned over and it sprang to life. Didn't have water in it yet cause I didn't plan on starting it right then. Jim

I think I would treat it with some Bio Cide to kill any algae growing in it. Otherwise, it"s going to be better than what you can get today power wise. Diesel doesn"t go bad like gasoline does.

"brum brush"

WHAT language is THAT?

hello bob--i,m sure he meant "burn brush"--i am pleased if i was able to help you figure this out---have a nice day--

Here in MN we run 2% biodiesel - 2% is soyybean oil. That lubes the pumps and all is well.

--->Paul

I've used 20 year old diesel fuel with no problems.

Any diesel can get bacteria and/or aglae in it if there is any moisuture present. If you treat it with biocide, all that does is stop further growth. The little dead bacteria or algae specs will still be there and still plug filters.

As to the new ultra-low sulfur diesel in older mechanical pumps? It's certainly IS still an issue for rotary pumps - especially Bosch and Stanadyne. Ultra-low diesel gets the lube cooked out of it. Then, by law, a lube additive has to be put into it - but the regs do not require adding enough lube to make it equivalent to the older high-sulfur, uncooked diesel. It's not enough of a difference to ruin a pump overnight, but is enough to shorten its life over time.

What it boils down to is, is it worth taking the chance, or are you willing to spend a few extra dollars and treat your fuel just to be sure. All you need to do is add a little bit of two-stroke oil and you'll be fine. Mix as a 200 to 1 ratio to bring any low-sulfur fuel up in lube to match the older fuel.

I buy gallon jugs of Super Tech Outboard 2-cycle TC-W3 engine oil at Walmart. If you've got a 15 gallon tank, add 10 ounces and you'll be fine. It's cheap insurance.

To the people that tell you the new fuel is "fine" . . . ask for some verified facts instead of hear-say.

The new ultra-low sulfur diesel is required to have enough lube added to make a metal wear scar of no more then 520 microns.

Stanadyne and Bosch pumps call for enough lube that makes no more then a 460 micron metal wear scar.

The math is pretty simple and the new fuel does not meet the specs for rotary mechanical pumps. For in-line pumps, I doubt it matters.

Now, take the ultra low sulfur fuel and add two-stroke oil at 1 to 200 ratio, and it's lube jumps down to 400 microns of metal wear. THAT makes it much more suitable for rotary pumps and exceeds the required lube specs.

Keep in mind that a rotary pump with good fuel can last 1,000,000 miles on the road or 20,000 engine hours easily. I'm talking about the major moving parts. When you send a pump to a shop to get "rebuilt", those parts usually gets used again, as-is. So, many people don't realize how long those major parts actually last. Also, many have no idea when a pump actually DOES fail, how many hours those major parts actually have on them.

If you bought a certified "rebuilt" pump right now, the internal major metal parts likely already have 5000 - 20,000 engine hours on them.

My point being, very few people have any clue when a failure happens, how many hours the parts really have on them since factory new.

Subsequently, I'll go by what the pump companies have published from their own testing.

And for those that tell you otherwise? Ask for some data-based facts.

Some classes in tractor pulling are using bio-feisel

I bought a house on the main drag in Chehalis a few years ago and converted it into an office. Needed to get an appraisal last year, and decided it wouldn't be good to have an underground fuel tank on the property, so I carefully dug the sod from around the old fuel oil tank, and removed the standpipe. There's about 100 gallons of fuel oil in the tank! Has to be at least 20 years old, because the double pane windows are dated 1990, and I assume the heat pump was put in at the same time.

I'm planning to pump it out, and use it about 1/3- 2/3 with diesel, provided it passes the "sniff test" (and after filtering).