Condensor interchange

oldrustycars · Jul 15, 2010

Working on a Case 1830 skid steer loader. It has a Renault gas engine. It ran very well about 2 months ago, now will not start. Has a good, blue spark as tested with a Briggs and Stratton spark tester. Points look good, and are gapped at .020 per Case. They have been run with a point file, and cleaned. Cap and rotor look good, cleaned with emery paper. 5 psi fuel pressure, gas getting to carb, and filling the bowl. Compression is 150 psi in all 4 cylinders. Plugs are not new, but look ok, cleaned and gapped to .025, according to Case specs. Won"t even sputter when hit with starting fluid. I have new plugs for it, but can"t locate points and condensor. I feel the condensor may be bad, will others interchange? It mounts outside the distributor. Any other ideas? Thanks

36 Coupe · Jul 15, 2010

New plugs can gas foul and not spark.You dont say if you have a strong spark.

mmidlam · Jul 15, 2010

You said you have spark so the condenser is ok

mmidlam · Jul 15, 2010

deleted

mmidlam · Jul 15, 2010

Did you find a se-4 fencer diagram? I found a tech at a service center in Michigan that draws up his own diagrams. Don't know if he would be willing to share them with anyone.

msb · Jul 15, 2010

If you have a good blue spark, the condenser is o.k..

Bob · Jul 16, 2010

Not that I think you need them, but the condenser and points appear to be readily available from CIH.

I guess you never thought to try the dealer?

Condenser part # N7710

Point set part # D66447

I would bet auto parts stores that handle Standard Ignition, BWD, Echlin, or Niehoff can get them if the pimply-faced kid behind the parts counter knows where the paper copy of the Ag and Industrial Ignition Catalog is kept!

36 Coupe · Jul 16, 2010

The SE4 circuit is too complicated to draw out.I ve done it for many import chargers over the years.I just change the boards now and the customer has to pay up.Saw a board burned beyond repair yesterday, new one is 100 bucks.

Janicholson · Jul 16, 2010

With spark, the system might still be out of time. It should be (near) TDC when cranking or idle. pull #1 plug, crank untill air pushes your thumb out of the plug hole, turn engine till piston is at the very top (by hand, not the starter) then look to see where the rotor is pointing. If it is not pointing directly at the #1 plug wire terminal on the cap, there are issues that need to be taken care of to have that happen. Who "fixed it" last, when did it quit, and it could be as simple as a loose distributor that turned, or mis-installed wires. Or it could be mechanical timing issues in the engine cam distributor drive. Jim

oldrustycars · Jul 18, 2010

Turns out it was a bad condenser. It had a good blue spark, as tested with a proper spark tester. New condenser and it ran great. For the record, it ran great when last parked and shut off 6 weeks earlier. Nothing had been touched, distributer was not loose, in fact no one was likely even near it for the time it sat.

Condensor interchange

oldrustycars

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36 Coupe

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mmidlam

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mmidlam

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msb

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Bob

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36 Coupe

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Janicholson

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oldrustycars

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