OT/Frozen brake bleeder

cadet trooper · Jul 5, 2010

I know I've seen this posted before but I can't remember the answers, anyway I had to replace a leaking rear brake line on my 97 F-150 today which wasn't a big deal and I knew the battle was not over by just changing the line usually if you have two bleeders to loosen one will be froze up and yes that was true the left one came loose but the right one is like it's welded so I stopped before I do serious damage. I have sprayed it with Rust breaker so it's soaking now. Any ideas would be helpful from you knowledgeable folks.It's not my prime vehicle now so I have time to work with it.

EVILBOWEVIL · Jul 5, 2010

heat it cherry red and it will come out
I would then put a new one in with antisieze

Good luck

Ron

the tractor vet · Jul 5, 2010

At one time they had made a special socket set that you placed over the bleeder and put a wrench on it a it has a head that you hit with a hammer and the shock wave transmits into the wheel cylinder not the bleeder and with little effort on the wrench they come wright loose. Best 60 bucks i ever spent on what some called a worthless tool . A little ZEP AND a few good solid hits with a hammer and they come loose . Oh and one other thing it is wise to remove any part of a car or truck and never seize it when ya get it That way a few years down the road when ya do have to WORK on it an the day will come that ya do things come apart a lot better.

johndeereman · Jul 5, 2010

do not heat it cherry red brake fluid builds pressure fast dont ask how i know this if you want to heat it just hit it for a minute with a bernzomatic torch wont take much on that tiny bleeder

cadet trooper · Jul 5, 2010

I was thinking of using my Bernz-O-Matic torch but was worried about cooking the cups and seals in the wheel cylinder and the impact tool is a good idea because we have one at the shop I just need a 3/8 deep well impact socket for it I just don't know if I have enough room to swing a hammer because as you know nothings easy because the bleeders are on the top.

MarkB_MI · Jul 5, 2010

As Bowevil said, if you heat them with an acetylene torch they will usually come right out. I prefer to use a Vise Grip rather than a wrench, as it will give you a better grip on the hot bleeder.

Caution: Heat the bleeder, not the caliper/cylinder. And watch out for hot brake fluid shooting out, it will burn you good if it hits you.

old · Jul 5, 2010

NO HEAT unless you also want to replace the wheel cylinder or rebuid it. Take a hammer and tap it a few times about 90% of the time doing that and using a 6 point socket the correct size will pop them free. BTDT many time and most will free up after whacking them a few times. Some times it does take a good solid hit

36 Coupe · Jul 5, 2010

Leave the new brake line loose and wait for fluid to drip.This worked for me on the last line replacment.

DENNIS MIN · Jul 6, 2010

Or, do like I have always done.....follow all the advise given, then snap the rascal off, or round off the hex, then snap it off......

D.

Owen Aaland · Jul 6, 2010

(quoted from post at 18:12:05 07/06/10) Or, do like I have always done.....follow all the advise given, then snap the rascal off, or round off the hex, then snap it off......

D.

You left off the last part. After you spent an hour trying to get it loose before it twisted off, go buy a new cylinder for about $10.00.

Jon Hagen · Jul 7, 2010

Use a small tip acetelene torch to heat the end of the bleeder red hot. it will get that hot in a few seconds, then get the heat away before you melt something. let it cool and hit with solvent.
Most times it will spin right out.

OT/Frozen brake bleeder

cadet trooper

Well-known Member

EVILBOWEVIL

Member

the tractor vet

Well-known Member

johndeereman

Well-known Member

cadet trooper

Well-known Member

MarkB_MI

Well-known Member

old

Well-known Member

36 Coupe

Well-known Member

DENNIS MIN

Member

Owen Aaland

Well-known Member

Jon Hagen

Well-known Member

Similar threads