jd 327 baler

Where are you purchasing the shear bolts?
What torque value are you using?
Are the bolt holes wallowed out?
Is the baler being operated at full rpms of 540?
Bale thrower?
 
Are the needles and lock out dog retracting far enough? Is it banged up where it has been catching the plunger crank? If so, follow the mechanism back to where there is a lever that the needle carrier lifts up that pulls that dog back. They often need a little extra lift. bolt welded on the carrier will provide the extra lift and clearance needed. The Deere dealer baler guy modified my 346 that way and it worked great. He said it was a common fix due to wear.
 
Been having this trouble with our MF #12 baler too, but we just need to take the flywheel off ours and rebush the shear pin and the bushing that the whole thing rides on.

The shear pin should go through a hardened replaceble bushing, atleast it appears that way on ours. Probably a bit wallowed out and the slop makes it easier to shear.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
my old allis baler i got for free also does that - but for the most part it is when i am not feeding new hay in and the flywheel is "thumping" when the plunger keeps hitting the same already compressed bit of hay.....
it helps to turn off the PTO when hay isn't in front of it, and i fixed up and installed a couple more hay wedges to keep the already compressed hay from spring back forward so much - also if the hay is too wet - that is the first thing to go....
 

dwbuttry
Check condition and tightness of the needle brake pads. As mentioned the boomerang piece that needle frame contacts that pulls plungerhead stop away from crank arm can bend and extend the angle which makes the rod too long so stop still clips arm. I seen this angle on boomerang get so large that it will seize on attaching bolt & bush causing plungerhead stop to become inoperable.
 

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