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94 Ranger 2.3 problems?

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I've read that TPS problems were common on Rangers. Sometimes the truck runs great but other times it won't accelerate(hestitates for a few seconds before the rpms come up) or will start surging, especially when going up a hill. The tranny sometimes shifts way too soon as well. It stalled at a stop sign the other day but started right back up. I'm thinking it's a bad TPS. Does anyone have any other ideas what could be wrong? It's getting frustrating because it doesn't do it all the time and no check engine light comes on. Thanks Dave
 
fuel filter first then take a pressure reading. Had a ranger with the same symptoms and the filter cured it.
 
Dunno the year, but check IAC or mass air sensor as well.
 
The fuel pressure was checked and the fuel filter was replaced by a Ford mechanic. When he changed the fuel filter the fuel pump didn't work even after banging on the gas tank. The truck wouldn't start hot sometimes and it's good the pump quit when it did. I put a new fuel pump relay in and haven't had any starting problems at all. That's why I'm thinking the TPS is going. The mechanic rides at my MX track and didn't have any test equipment other than a fuel pressure tester. Dave
 
94 Ranger 2.3 problems?(re. the heading on the post). I cleaned the mass air sensor with electrical cleaner and it wasn't dirty in the first place. I've heard they turn black when they're bad. Maybe I'll have to take it to a shop to test all the sensors? Dave
 
Yea, I saw the year of your vehicle after I posted. My '93 Aero had a problem with the maf. It bucked, kicked and threw a code. Cleaning it didn't help and the codes that it gave were bogus. I replaced it on a gut feeling and all was cured. Let us know when you get it fixed.
 
It sounds like a fuel problem,like a fuel pump going out.Thats the way my Chevy was when it went out,it would surge,and die at stop signs.I could replace the filter and it would help for a little while,but after about 2 weeks it would be doing the same thing again.Finally pulled the tank and replaced the fuel pump and fixed it.Be sure to replace the screen on the pickup tube when you replace the pump if you do.
 
Throttle position sensor works like a rheostat.The farther you push it down,the more current goes through it to tell it to speed up the engine by giving it more fuel.You should see what codes it kicks out and go from there.I dont think your problem is the throttle position sensor.I could be wrong,but either you are going to throw a bunch of parts and money into it,and not fix it,or you can try and see what the codes are and then ask somebody,maybe a Ford mechanic what they say.I wouldnt bet they will be able to give you the right answer,but from experience and trial and error they might have a good idea.I still think its a fuel pump because of your symptoms.If you think about it,a TPS is either going to speed up the engine as you push on the throttle,or not.Thats about all it will do.If it has an EGR valve thats full of carbon and stuck,that would make it run bad.There could be other sensors that are bad.I would think the TPS is the last thing it would be.
 
Evening:I had the same on a 97 3.0 liter, stumbles coming off idle/stall/surge etc etc...replaced the MAF sensor , all is good now.
What i found was that the "bad" maf has a ohm reading of 93kohm across the two signal leads.One colored tan and one blue[ black and red wires are power supply] they both have a black tracer along their lengths. And the good senso has a reading of 3.5kohm.
The high reading was after cleaning of the sensor, so i don't have the reading of before cleaning to give you.
This is how i decided on using one from a junker,found one that had the exact series/part number as what i had,so it would fit my housing and checked the ohm readings before buying.
Hope it helps.
 
very well could be a tps. it is a variable resistor, voltage at idle is about 1 volt then as you push the pedal down it increases to as much as 4.9 volts. when the wiper surface of the tps gets dirty or gets a worn spot the voltage will drop to o volts. this is a fine hairline fault and it will cause bucking and jerking and may die if this spot is close to idle position. the best way to test is a voltmeter on the tps signal wire and with key on press the pedal slowly all the way to wide open then back watching the meter. if there is a bad spot you will see the voltage go off momentarily. but it also could be many other things.
 
New plugs(NGK) and wires, new fuel filter, fuel pressure checked and new fuel pump relay. I also cleaned the MAF. It didn't run the greatest right after cleaning the MAF but started to run really good a few days later. I read that you should disconnect the battery and the computer will reset itself to you driving style. Lately its been running kind of crappy. Dave
 
Check the rubber air intake tube from the filter all the way to the throttle body for cracks or holes that would let air in after the mass air flow sensor.
 
I'd be inclined to wonder about the EGR valve myself. It's funny that it's not throwing codes tho. If it's stalling like that it should be throwing a code that it's running lean or something like that too...
I guess you could check the TPS voltage as someone suggested and see if it's got stable increase/decrease.
I can see that it would cause a stall if you opened the throttle and the TPS didn't send the correct info to the PCM to increases the fuel. Then you'd have a lean condition tho... Same as a carb with a plugged jet... You crack the throttle and it stalls because there's too much air and no fuel.
On the other side of this you have the MAF sensor. Really... I thought the MAF was mostly responsible for mixture control moreso than the TPS.
Anyhow, if it's not the EGR valve then I'd look at the voltage of the TPS. If it was good I'd probably go ahead and change the MAF sensor provided there's no codes suggesting something else.
O2 sensors are another thing. Might check the wiring to them but usually they lead to a rich condition and gas guzzling.

Rod
 
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