Depends on how deep the dent is, or how thick its applied.

I use a belt sander to rough shape after appliying it with a wide bladed applicator.

Have a pattern for curves, and a good straight edge for flat lines.

Body work is nothing rushed,,, unless its a look good for 5 dollar/at50mph/at 200ft or more paint job.

Apply, sand it off, check, apply sand it off, recheck,,,,

Getting it rough shaped is the hard part.
 
For openers, if you need to use Bondo over 1/8" thick, you haven't done enough basic work and you're headed in the wrong direction.

I usually use a DA sander with a 40 grit disc for initial smoothing, an air file with a 40 grit strip for leveling, and a plain old hand file with an 80 grit strip for final work.

It's all a matter of having the right tools, knowing how to use them, and not being afraid of dispensing with a copious amount of elbow grease.

Speaking of Bondo, we have a local body shop owner nicknamed "Bondo Bob" because of the amount of Bondo he uses. I once had a shop where his front parking lot was visible from my office. I was BS'ing with a customer one day when an 18 wheeler pulled into Bob's parking lot. My customer commented, "Looks like Bob's getting another load of Bondo".
 
I use "Bondo" for many things and I always buy it by the gallon. I have used it mostly on wood siding and windo repair, even to plug carpenter bee holes.
I have found that if you shave off most of the excess before it hardens it makes finishing much easier. I use a thin specially sharpened 6" knife and it must be done carefully and at the right hardness. Just don't pull material away from the repaired piece.
Experiment and you will see. :)
 
an assortment of straight edges that has some flex works good. Glob it on and slide the straight edge over. For compound curves a thin light straight edge can be bowed and slide vertically on the surface. You'll use less bondo and there'll be no air pockets. Nobody likes bondo but they're lying if they don't use it. PS Don't use Bondo brand.
 
A friend told me once that a magnet would not be drawn to a repair that had a significant amount of "bondo" on it. Is that true?
 
That's how a paint thickness gauge works. The more paint bondo whatever the further is the metal. It's the distance not the bondo.
 
Obviously no body men on here. The tool you need is called a bondo file or "cheese grater" It is about 10" long and 1 1/2" wide and has rows of teeth like a cheese grater. You use it to shave and shape the filler when it is at a hard cheese consistency. They sell them at any good auto store. Very time saving device. If you do bondo you need a couple of them.
 
They are also called "surform" tools, and they work well on partially cured bondo. You still have to do some sanding, because the surform tools leave fairly deep marks in the bondo. A surform is the fastest way I know to carve down bondo that is too thick and needs to be smoothed down.
 

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