Clutch Adjusting on Heavy Truck--How to??

I have not been under to look it all over and just hope there is still adjustment left--don't know yet. I heard you use a special tool and go up in opening in bell housing. It is a Fuller 9 speed hooked to an 855 Cummins, 1987 Pete. LB

Work thru the opening in the bottom of the bell housing. Rotate flywheel to position clutch adjuster area at opening. There will be some sort of lock the holds the clutch adjustment.
You could have an setup that has a self adjuster that is froze up, or one that lets you rotate the adjuster ring via a hex(3/4"?) or simply a notched ring that you rotate. The clutch pedal must be held down to turn the adjuster ring. It can be done without special tools.I think the adjuster ring usually has to be turned opposite the direction of engine rotation. Usually 3 or 4 notches gets your free travel back. (The linkage is only adjusted to make sure the clutch brake is applied at the end of the clutch pedal stroke.)

We need to know what type of clutch you have before a definite answer can be given. Some have a pair of locking nuts on the release bearing where it is adjusted. More common is a rotating ring that is held in place with a lock plate or it may have an adjuster instead of the lock plate. Some others are self adjusting and a real pain if you need to change the setting.

Depends on wether it's the older ring type as the others described or a bit newer 'Easy Pedal'. Those have a 5/8" bolt head about 1/2 way to the center of the PP on the back side. Just roll the engine over until you find it. There may be a lock over it... and you will also probably have to push a spring loaded lock ahead (like a slack adjuster) when you put the socket on. Depress the clutch pedal and turn the bolt clockwise. If you're lucky like me, it'll be seized....
Then you drop the crashbox.

Rod

awww who needs a clutch anyway?

When you look at it,see if there is any slack in the linkage.If there is a lot of slack in the linkage you may need some new pins or even adjust the slack out of the linkage before you adjust the clutch.Otherwise you cant do a very good job of adjusting.There are bushings in the bellhousing and the shafts that hold the fork can be worn out too.All of that stuff adds up and causes you to not be able to disengage the clutch right,or to compress the clutch brake right.If you are lucky and get all the linkage right it might not take a lot of adjusting.

It depends on what kind of clutch you have as how you adjust it.Basically you turn a disc inside to take out slack.So you would want to turn the disk clockwise,I think.Now some have a lock that has a bolt holding it in.Some have a bolt like a slack adjuster that you push down a lock ring on the outside that will be stuck,and others have 2 bolts holding a spring thing in it and you can adjust them too,but I cant remember how.I think you might have to get a tool for those,but they arent all that common.Seems like it had a hex head and a gear on the back of it.There might even be other kinds.You can even adjust a self adjusting clutch,but usually they are stuck with dust in the threads.You can spray up in there with penetrating oil and use a air hammer,but usually you break something and have to change it anyway.

Also I forgot that you have to hold the pedal down either sombody holds it down for you,or cut a board long enough,to go between the seat and clutch pedal, to hold it nearly as far as it will go down.

Unless the linkage is worn sloppy or stuck... you leave the linkage alone.
If it's worn, repair it. If it's stuck, free it... but the linkage is not for adjusting the clutch.

Rod