after i did a valve job on my dc theres water in the oil. i torqued all bolts to 75 lbs as noted by manual. ive tried block and head gasket seal to no avail.only thing left is to replace head gasket again. question is can i put gasket sealer around water passeges in head and block before i bolt the head on hence sealing off water.
- Thread starter scroom
- Start date
yes gasket was new and clean. had head professionaly redone. new valves, guides,springs. ive done several head jobs on farmalls and jd but this is first case head job.head was cracked in two places but was fixed. this guy is supposed to be one of the best head mechanics in texas. came highly recommended by several people.
also, yes the gasket was installed dry. i used to be able to buy a copper spray applied to the head gasket but i cant find it any more.ive been told not to use anythng on the gasket just install it dry. and another thing. this was a nos gasket i got off ebay. really old. it was two flat pieces of metal with a white inner core. looked like it might have been asbestos.
Paul Janke
Member
I'm not an expert, but on my SC the water in the oil is from bad o-rings on the sleeves if I'm not mistaken. It isn't much, so I drain the antifreeze out of the bottom each time before I start it. So far all has been as good as it can be considering the situation.
rustred
Well-known Member
well once i put a head gskt. on dry and thats what happened to me . once i got it warmed up it sealed itself. i have a feeling thats whats goin on here. i like to spray them with hi-tac spray. even if you give em a very lite smear of ordinary grease that works.some people use copper coat, some aluminum paint. that gskt may have been very dry from sitting around. i have even reused head gskts sprayed with hi-tac and no leaks. thats only when i would pull the head and clean out the cyls and valves from being stuck from sitting to get it running to see what the rest of tractor is like before big tear down.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I have r&r'r the heads on many s,d and a few l/la Cases and the only place i ever put sealer is on the head stud threads in the block and on the rh side of the engine around the push rod cavities to keep them from seeping oil, otherwise clean everything, make sure head is true, torque to specs. warm up and retorque
Brian in Ohio
Member
If the sleeves themselves are OK, then yes, you can reuse them. John Saeli over on the Case discussion board has the O rings.
sorry guy. all i know is there was no water in oil before the head was redone. engine sat for several years since last run. a couple of valves were stuck bad so i went ahead and had head rebuilt. i guess it would be possible the sleeve seals or seal could have gone bad just sitting up.also there was no water in system when i got tractor.pin came out of clutch is reason guy i got it from set tractor up several years ago.
olgentdc
Well-known Member
Are you aware ?????!!.. THE WEt CLUTCH area COULD HAVE WATER IN THERE contaminating Your engine oil , Drain it and flush with Gasoline , this oil is allowed to migrate from engine to clutch and eqaulizes , ...........Don't grab the wrenches for an engine tear down just Yet! , At least I would not until I tried BARS LEAK In the RADIATOR and LUCAS ENGINE SEALER (NAPA)IN THE MOTOR OIL and ran it for about 40 hours ,.... to save the engine bearings , Get all the Antifreeze out of there 1ST ,. may requireat least a couple flushings... each day before using check the oil drain plug for water , park tractor in a manner that drain is at the lowest point , and that is where a tablespoon of water might be each day ,, if you have a Qt in 24 hrs , disregard my Ideas and grab the tools ...
thanks for the info.ive put some hi dollar block and radiator sealer in the tractor and am running it about 15 minutes every day and let sit for 24 hrs. ive done this twice now.theres more than a teaspoon but a lot less than a quart. maybe half a coffee cup full. i doubled the dose of the block seal and am going to try this.(block sealer is mainly for cars so i figuered maybe it wasnt enough because this case holds 3 times the water of most cars.ill try some lucus oil seal also. im really not looking forward to tearing this thing back down. btw i replaced the clutch when i tore it down the first time.cleaned the area at that time.guess i need to check it again.
Take the covers off the oil pan, get a light and look up at the sleeves to see where the water is coming from. this is one of the easiest engines to diagnose as you can see everything going on in there, just look where the AF is dripping from, if its leaking that much you'll see it . mEl
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