I picked up a 1954 VAC a few weeks ago, the motor was locked up, got all that freed up and got her turning over, have yet to get it to run, this morning while trying to start it, I noticed that the bolt that the battery cable connects to on the starter was loose, well I broke it off trying to tighten it.... any way to replace this? is there an after market starter that will work on this or am I looking at 250.00 for a rebuilt starter?? help please..
- Thread starter KregW
- Start date
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Pretty simple fix and any good alternator/starter repair place should be able to install a new one for less then $50. You can also do it if and that is a big if you know how to solder well and have a big big soldering iron to do the job.
I have a Big soilering Iron adj. temp type. and can soilder. I also noticed that the armiture ( part that brushes ride on) looked a bit worn, should this be a concern? or just fix it and try it??
Also, I know the fireing order of the pistons, but what is it on the distributor??
Thanks
Also, I know the fireing order of the pistons, but what is it on the distributor??
Thanks
You need to bring No1 piston near the radiator to TDC on the compression stroke. Remove that sparkplug and hold your thumb over the plug hole while your helper slowly hand cranks the engine until you feel pressure against your thumb. Use a long plastic straw and drop it on top of the piston, then have the helper keep slowly cranking the engine while you watch that straw rise. When it stops rising you should be at TDC on the compression stroke. Your rotor should be pointing at the No1 plug tower.
Note which way your your rotor turns as your plug wires need to be install in your firing order which is 1-3-4-2. Hal
PS: Your broken bolt can be removed by welding a hex nut on it. With the heat you should be able to remove it. Once you get it out I would run a tap through the threads.
Note which way your your rotor turns as your plug wires need to be install in your firing order which is 1-3-4-2. Hal
PS: Your broken bolt can be removed by welding a hex nut on it. With the heat you should be able to remove it. Once you get it out I would run a tap through the threads.
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
If I where going to fix it my self I would replace the bushings and brushes since you have it open and that will save you time and money down the road
The "bolt" is an electrical terminal stud. It is pressed up through and insulated from the starter frame after the wiring is connected on the inside. You can buy a new terminal stud at a starter/generator repair shop. Best to let them do it as it must be insulated from the frame very well.
The "armature" is actually the commmutator on the rotor. Depending on the amount of wear, the bars can be cleaned up with sand paper (not crous cloth or other metal embeded abrasive cloth). The mica insulation between the bars will require a slight under cut after sanding and brushes reseated.
Find TDC on the compression stroke of #1 turning engine CW (viewed from the front) per Hal's post. You can see the piston crown with a pen light as it approaches TDC. Rotor turns CW. Timing hole is on left side of bell housing.
Joe
The "armature" is actually the commmutator on the rotor. Depending on the amount of wear, the bars can be cleaned up with sand paper (not crous cloth or other metal embeded abrasive cloth). The mica insulation between the bars will require a slight under cut after sanding and brushes reseated.
Find TDC on the compression stroke of #1 turning engine CW (viewed from the front) per Hal's post. You can see the piston crown with a pen light as it approaches TDC. Rotor turns CW. Timing hole is on left side of bell housing.
Joe
Very easy replacement on this starter. Picture is old stud minus about 1/2" that broke off. As you can see there will not be any soldering required. Will spend more time cleaning up once apart than replacing stud. Only studs the the repair shop has were round heads so I just cut a little off each side so it would fit in the saddle. Stud should come with new insulators.
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