tractor problem mitsubishi diesel

glennster

Well-known Member
working on kind of a basket case international 254. tractor sat for a few years and i'm trying to get it going for him again. there is a solenoid plunger on the injector pump. as soon as you hook up the battery, with the key either off or on, the plunger closes. when closed, it shuts the fuel off to the injector pump. i unplugged one of the wires to it and am getting fuel to the injectors. getting some smoke out of the stack, but still no fire yet. i bled the lines at the injectors and get decent fuel when cranking with the plunger out, but stops as soon as you plug it back in. any body work ion one of these before. heres a couple pics.

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You have to heat the glow plugs to get it to start. prolly 10 to 30 seconds. should have a resistor on the dash, a little coil that will glow red when the glow plugs are hot.usually won't start even at 80 degrees without heating them. If that is a k3d engine, parts are hard to get for it and very expensive when you find them. good luck

Dave
 
dave, i ran the heater on the glow plugs, they are getting hot, and the tractor is huffing out black smoke when cranking, just hasnt fired yet. having sit for a couple years, i suspect the rings may be a little sticky. the odd thing is as soon as the battery cable is hooked up, that plunger engages and the solenoid holds it in on the pump, shutting off the fuel, with the key either on or off. it acts like it is working in reverse of what it should do. i have the solenoid unplugged to get fuel, but if i leave it plugged in, with the key off it is drawing power to keep the solenoid in. pretty strange.
 
I can't remember how that works. been over a year since I worked on one of them. Did the same thing you are talking about. Had a broken piston and rings were gone. They wanted $125 a hole for the rings $224 for a piston and $118 for a head gasket. I changed to another engine a little bigger. I may have an engine like the one you are working on if you can get me the numbers off it and are interested. Yours may be new enough that the parts aren't so high for also
 
I think (best inclination) that that solenoid could be connected to a seat interlock preventing running with no operator) or a similar system. It should not be getting power with the key off (in my thinking) for any reason. Jim
 
I had the same problem with mine. After much head scratching, I accidentally found the problem to be a broken wire connection INSIDE OF the wiring harness connected to the plunger you mentioned. I jumpered past the bad connection and things have been great since. Good luck!
 
If you are sure it's getting fuel to the injectors then the compression must be too low. Try putting some 30 weight oil in the cylinders to seal the rings and raise the compression. If that doesn't work try pulling it to start it.
 
What about the switch on the hi/lo leverby your left heel. Is it in neutral and pushed to the right in that small notch. There is a safety switch on that and will not start without without it there.
 
Trick we used to use on hummers and the chevy pickups with the diesel motor (couldn't use ether) was dip a rag in gasoline and hold it to mostly (not completely) cover the intake tube. Gas fumes would give it a little boost and start right up.

Dave
 
yup, i have the selector in the notch, and i am getting fuel to the injectors. found out the clutch disk is stuck to the fly wheel right now, so i have the clutch pedal clamped down and will try and get that loose after i get this thing running. my buddy left this tractor outside for two years. jezz i hate when people do that. found out yesterday also the wasps took up residence in every nook and cranny on this thing too. makes it real interesting to work on!!!
 
I own a 234 and recently began tinkering with the fuel shut off solenoid. i know exactly what you mean... it seems to work backwards. When it is empowered the plunger pushes outwards, which, according to the manual, is the "fuel off" position.

If you ever figure that out, please post.

I determined the relay feeding the solenoid was bad. The replacement (which also serves the oil sensor switch) was $250. I rigged an old horn relay and it seems to work.

Now I am pumping oil out the dipstick. Cracked piston? Time for a compression test. Sigh...
 

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