1967 IH 806 with MW turbo

eknierp

New User
I have a late model IH 806 with a Stanadyne injection pump,I would like to get around 125 to 130 HP out of it.I don"t have acess to a dynapro to measure the horsepower output.I updated the raditor to a 5 core from a 4 core, to take care of any excess heat problem.What screw on the injector pump and how much would I have to adjust it too acheive this?What would be a normal exhaust temperature also at this horsepower?
 
Be very carful,that engine lacks piston cooling jets and is not mmade to handle the heat that the DT361(1206)can.the engine can put out theHP,pistons begin to melt at around 1300 degreesof sustained heat,lug it,the heat goes up.Shift down at 1200.Install a pyrometer and a boost gauge,use them.(my 706 has reached upwards of 1500 degrees-momentarily-unless I watch it like ahawk. Be careful dont melt itdown. goodluck,and have fun with your turbo.
 
The injection pump you have does NOT have an external adjustment to set the fuel flow. You have to remove the top cover off of the injection pump. Then you have to have it in just the right rotation to reach down into the pump to tighten the screw on the retaining clamp that controls the pistons stroke. I hope you see that this is not easy to do. Also to do it without a Dyno is just asking to ruin your tractor.
I would not recommend turning your tractor up that much. When you increase the engine horse power then the rest of your tractor needs to be able to handle that higher horse power. Your radiator is just one part that has to handle more heat. Like Delta Red stated you really would need to install a Pyrometer to keep an eye on exhaust temp.
I had a JD5020 that I turned up. In just twenty feet of a wet spot pulling a disk you would have to let off of the throttle or it would over heat the valves and pistons. If anyone other than me ran it I could count on the turbo and valves getting burnt. I finally just turned it back close to stock.
 
I don't know the answer to your questions, but if the engine is solid, you can run at 125 HP. A friend of mine ran his at 140 HP for 10+ years. The guy that bought it from him had it for many more years. It was the big tractor for both farmers. 5-18 plow, 2 row corn head chopper, couple hundred acres each. It had a fan from a 1206 put on it to help cooling. 1206 fan has 1 or 2 extra blades. No pyrometer or boost gauge. Wayne
 
Not familiar with adjusting the DB pump but I suspect you got the right answer below.

Beyond that, DO install a pyro. I'd suggest you don't take it beyond 1100 on a sustained pull. Really all that is telling you is that you have high EGT's which indicates a lot of unburned fuel (smoke) in the pipe which is then burning when it starts being exposed to O2 in the pipe... which is what creates the high temps... but burning fuel in the pipe doesn't help you. So the pyro is more an indication of what fuel the engine can actually burn reasonably.
Also... if the engine only has N/A pistons, no piston jets and standard rings.... you will at least shorten it's life if not bring on a meltdown. Be carefull with it...

Rod
 
1/4 turn clockwise should be enough . For sure,install a pyrometer and shift doiwn at 1100 degrees or you can melt some pistons.
 

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