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PTO winch setup advice needed

Z

Zachary Hoyt

Well-known Member
I bought this winch a couple of weeks ago and I'm trying to figure out how to put it to use. I was told it came off a military truck. I have a Farmall H and and MF35 to work with and I'm wondering if either one will have enough power to pull anything heavy. The winch is worm drive, about 23 to 1 as I tested it by hand. I'm trying to figure out whether to put in on a 3 point hitch frame and get a driveshaft hooked to it or to try to mount it on the H drawbar and run it that way somehow. The H still has the factory U shaped drawbar. I want to use it to pull logs out of inaccessible locations in the woods. I have some better cable to put on it that will enable me to reach up to 200 feet or so if necessary and it has a freewheel mechanism to make it easier to unroll. Any advice will be very much appreciated.
Zach
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with out a free unspool you will need to run it CC or cw so putting on a tractor will work for winding but how will you unspool it
 
Ever consider using a hydrallic motor to power winch then you can have both direction and speed control and run off tractor hydrallics
Paul
 
Boy does that look familar. I have one thats hooked to the pto with a reverser trans and a truck trans in front of it.Its on a log cart and i started useing it in second gear, then stared useing 3rd then 4th. Normally i reverse the trans to let things down and unspool the cable. Its just plain hard pulling the cable by hand.To use hydrolic you need tractors with better systems.
 
Thanks for replying. How many horsepower is your 450, and is that a crawler? I'm wondering if I'll have enough power to turn the winch with a load.
Zach
 
Thanks for the advice. When you use the truck transmission is that slowing down the gearing or speeding it up? What kind of tractor do you run it with? I'll have to think about a truck transmission and see if I can figure out how to set that up on mine.
Zach
 
I have a mechanical winch that I use to pull logs and etc. with. I put a transmission in front of it like the earlier posting did. I used a five speed with over drive in it. That way I gained a higher and lower speed. I use it on smalled tractors like yours. I took an old rear mounted blade an narrowed it up, turned it around, and put some extra teeth on the bottom. I then made a mount for the winch on top of the blade. I just set it on the ground and let the winch "set" the blade like an anchor in the ground. It pulls much more that way. If you mount it to your smaller tractors you won't be able to pull any more than they can hold. Unless you chain them to some thing.
 
neither of your tractors you have enough hyd. cap. to run the winch, it either won't run at a acceptable speed or no power, you can direct pto shaft drive it, if speed is't right you can chain drive it between pto an winch to correct that, as for paying off cable there is lever operated coupling to free spool the cable,better replace the spring loaded pay off brake or your cable will backlash, if you want the winch to hold the cable tight when you release the clutch you need to replace the missing one way brake,looks like a winch off 2 1/2 ton military, if it is it will pull more than your tractor will hold.
 
My advice would be to build yourself a big heavy frame and rig it up with two gears and a chain so you can find the right speed you want to run it. I did one like that and had to experiment with different size gears to find the right speed. If it is too slow it will aggrivate you to the point that you dont want to mess with it and if it is too fast it can get you hurt. also you need your frame to fit on a 3 point so that it will plow in the ground when you are pulling , especially with a tractor that small. It does not take much of a load to drag your tractor around rather than your load. I use mine on two case tractors, depending on how much I want to pull. A 530 case will do little small jobs but when you hook it to something too large , only one thing moves, and that is the tractor itself. Now when I use it with a big ol 730 case with 18.5 X 34 loaded tires plus wheel weights, I can do some serious dragging. It never ceases to amaze me what I can move with that rig. It is one of the handiest pieces of equipment I have on the farm.
 
I've pulled 60' logs up steep slopes with my deuce-and-a-half winch. The truck weighs 14,000 lbs. The winch will drag it up 30% slopes. When I went to winch 16,000 lbs of dead crawler up my 14% driveway, the locked up truck tires skidded to the crawler until I anchored the truck to a succession of trees.

Wonderful winches. If you get into heavy loading, make sure you have a spare shear pin. On the truck PTO, the winch is a 2 speed. Sooner or later you're gonna want a snatch block. Get a serious one.
 
Whether you drive it mechanical or hydro build a heavy frame for the 3 point MF. At the bottom of the frame mount a heavy grader blade. You can let the winch & frame down and as the grader takes the ground you will take the stress off the tractor..
 
I'm just trying to understand about the brake. I thought that the worm drive would keep it from unrolling, but I may be wrong. Thanks very much.
Zach
 
I have a 3 point hitch mounted frame with legs that come down that I will try to use. I'll have to figure about a blade but I'm sure I can find something to use. Thank you for your advice.
Zach
 
Thank you. Where does the shear pin go? I have a pretty heavy snatch block and I will definitely put it on when I put on the new cable.
Zach
 
Looks like it in your photo, attaching the U joint to the winch. BTW, I thought JM's blade advice brilliant. Keeping a light tractor stationary and stress off the tractor will be a big deal. I've often nosed my truck into a substantial tree. This time I was pulling on a large oak to keep it off a building when it dropped. Butt log on that one was 500 bdft.
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