Paul Bunyon's saw

Had to change the bar and chain on our saw buck today, thought I'd throw up a couple pics of what a real saw bar and chain look like. :) For comparison, I'm 6'5" tall.
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now that's a SAW, makes me hurt just to think about using it, but again I'm old!!
thanks for sharing
what size stihl is that?
 
All the old 2 man saws used bars like that and some had bows. They used a chain with aboiut a 3/4 inch pitch instead of the small .375 of the lightweight direct drive saws of today. All 2 man saws had handles on the outside bar/bow end. The guy on the outside handle did most of the work, he had to hold the saw in the cut, pump the oiler and still be ready to run when tree cut loose. The guy on the engine just held the engine handle bars and worked the throttle. This was how it was done with the old McCulloch 99 series 2 man saw.
 
The Stihl is an 084 with a 5 foot bar. The one upside to running it is that you have to stop to fill it more frequently.... more coffee breaks! Actually the weight isn't that bad. I got used to it pretty quickly. It is great for bucking a log pile too.
 
we use a 60 in. bar to cut holes in the ice for sturgeon spearing 4 ft. by 8 ft. and some years the ice is 3 feet thick and then you cut it at a 45 degree angle you use just about all of it
 
A friend of mine has a couple of Mauls (sp?) of about 1950 vintage. One has been restored and operates fine.

Power unit has handlebars and usually sits on the ground. The bar rotates to cut either horizontally or vertically. Engine is around 10 CI and has dual exhausts and mufflers. There is a handle on the end of the bar for the second man.

Dean
 
I still have a #99 McCulloch with a 60" bar. It's gear drive , that chain runs so slow you can just about count the teeth at full speed. Takes a 3/8" file. I payed $100. for it over 30 years ago.
I don't use it much anymore but it still runs good. I can't find anyone to hold the other end. lol
 
This is a picture of my Von Ruden PTO drive chain saw with a six foot bar. Square shaft drive, no slip clutches or shear pins. The owners manual says not to worry about a "chattering" sound it is the U-Joints working. When you throw this in gear a chattering sound is the least of your worries.

The second picture is my Barker Rim Saw. The back brace is off for repair. You place your right foot on the back brace, your left foot in front near the blade. The blade rotates inside the frame on rollers. You stand almost straddling the blade in the cage. This is a "real mans" saw.
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The upper picture is of my Mall #6, with dual exhaust. The lower saw is my dad's Homelite powered Lombard. I'm at the controls of the Mall, he's running the Lombard.

Both have 3' bars, 3/4" pitch chain, and run about 10:1 oil mix. Both cut slower than any modern saw, although they do take some huge chips out of the log.
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You must have a really tiny woodstove. . . :>)

Disston (sp?) built a two man saw back in the day- bar up to 7 feet- nicknamed "mankiller"- not because it was dangerous, just incredibly heavy and awkward to run. Used for falling big fir timber (back when we still had big trees).
 
We got the idea of cutting wafers from watching chainsaw competitions. They aren't really practical to use for firewood.

I think we have one of these Disston saws you mentioned, seen here in the foreground. It has a 4 bar and is powered by a 2 cylinder Mercury motor. Unfortunately the chain has a couple of weak spots, so we don't dare try cutting with it.
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