Need to prime my 5HP garden tiller from like the 70s or 80s

Basically, I pulled it out of winter storage, and did the oil and all that, but as is usual for this thing, I have no gas in the carb when I pull the spark plug (it's completely dry). Usually I can just fill the gas tank and shake the crap out of it and eventually it will seep in, but I have heard you can give a spray of carb cleaner or just a few drops of gasoline directly in the spark plug hole to get it crankin' (may take a few tries). Is this true? Or should I pull off the air filter and spray carb cleaner in there and leave the spark plug on?

It's a tiller like this:

http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/811/5hpgarden.jpg

As long as I am careful and don't add too much carb cleaner/gasoline, I'll be safe, right?

Also, the thing squeals really bad when it first starts up (at least, it did last year). And from pulling it a few times, I think it's going to be the same story this year, too. Any idea where I can grease this thing to make it quit whining, or spray some lubricant? I've got the old 5HP Sears or Craftsman model, I think. It's Red and White and blocky. Can I just spray right where the starter spins in the front when you pull the rope?

no amount of gas put directly in the cylinder is
gonna do bad things to that engine. Worst that
could happen is it will wash down the cylinder
walls and decrease compression. Just put a half a
teaspoon or so and go. If you can't get it to
stay running you need a new diaphragm in the carb.

The starter on the crank is dry. If you wanna
lube it the only way to do that is pull the
starter clutch and apply some light oil to the
shaft but I think it is supposed to stay dry.
Gonna let someone more knowledgeable weigh in
here. If you lube it you should get the proper
tools to pull that clutch, A flywheel holder and
clutch wrench.

jt

Glad to hear it. I guess I know what I'll be doing tomorrow morning (or in about 6 hours, haha). Thanks. Glad to know.

As for the squeal... It goes away after it runs for about 15 seconds, but it makes your ears want to bleed when it first fires up.

Lots of times the crankshaft end gets rusty or a little gummed up and drags on the starter clutch that is on the recoil. Sometimes you have to remove the starter and remove the clutch with the balls in it and clean the crankshaft surface. They can be so severe that when you start it the clutch drags and acutally spits the rope out while it is running.

Best way to fix that squeal is replace the clutch because when it starts to squeal that is the beginging of the end for the clutch and it will fail sooner or later. Armand

I reall doubt it will start on Carb Cleaner!

This aint your grand dads gas anymore.
Clean the tank and carb,,,use stabil when you put it away for the year.
And drain and add fresh gas in the spring!

The squeal of the starter clutch can be fixed by putting some MMR/3-in one oil/ very light motor oil into the lube hole in the end of the square part of the clutch. There is a piece of felt in their to hold oil to lube the interface of the crankshaft and the square part of the clutch. IF YOU DO NOT FIX IT, it will lock and tear-up your recoil starter.

Kent

Try dry dry graphite on the starter mechanism.they usually have locking dogs,put it ,after cleaning & drying well.---lha

Yes I have done that, but I would fill the tank 1/2 full,and give it a real short shot of starter fluid and as a rule it will start, might smoke for a while because it sat all winter, but what
do we expet. GOOD LUCK
JR.FRYE

5hp Sears?? Sears brands had more Tecumsehs than Briggs engines. One quirk was carb main jet vent hole on side of jet assembly would often be fouled from winter storage. Good news is it was simple to clean. Try a 16/1 2 stroke mix in spark plug hole for prime--or a teaspoon of plain oil to lube rings, get compression up for first start. Clutch squeal? Square drive without engaging fingers? That seems more a Briggs design- either way a spray of WD40 quiets a lot of things that can"t be disassembled quickly. Fuel? Plain unleaded regular is first choice, unleaded premium much preferred over E10 mixs- the Ethanol mixs foul carbs and have short shelf/tank life. As I noted - 2 stroke premix is good for first tank of season, about a 50/1 ratio in fuel tank for ring freeing, valve stem lube, general rust prevention. Spray Gumout in carb throat for preliminary cleaning helps if not disassembling and cleaning carbs- float bowls tend to get some crud in over winter so good idea to at least remove bowl and clean, blast main jet at same time. RN

cheap spray can of carb cleaner from walmart starts them everytime

Thanks for the feedback, guys. I intend to give this a try as soon as the weather turns decent again in the midwest.

I was wrong, it wasn't a Sears. It was a Montgomery Ward.

http://i41.tinypic.com/2hrjy1f.jpg

Just took that picture today.

Okay, I took the plug out, put about 2 or 3 drops of gas in the chamber, put the plug back in, and the thing started off in a heartbeat. Once it ran for a few seconds, it squealed annoyingly for about 10 seconds, and then the squealing quit. Runs just fine, no grinding or other bad noises. Though I'm sure the starter clutch or some internal bearing is on it's last leg...