Pic of ripper on my M

This is my newest addition to my collection. Its a two shank ripper made by Tennessee Farm Equipment, in athens Tn. I was told it was the same company as Athens, but i contacted Athens and they said it was not made by them. It still has a good tag with model num and serial on it. If anybody had any info on this id sure like to hear from you. I still havent got the lift figured out yet, where do the cyl go to the tractor??
Thanks.
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I have never seen one of these but would guess that there should be a set of mounts in front of the axle on each side for the cyls to mount to. Just a guess.
Angle Iron
 
It really does not matter where you hook cylinder because you cannot pull that with that tractor anyway. I used to pull a 1 shank with my 706 weighted with a cab and 1000 lbs of weights and could hardly pull it. And if you are just going to use it for show you don't need a cylinder either. Also suppose you did get a cylinder hooked up it needs to be a 2 way to put down pressure and you only have one way. Not trying to be harsh just telling it the way it is.
 
(quoted from post at 13:29:23 02/03/10) I have never seen one of these but would guess that there should be a set of mounts in front of the axle on each side for the cyls to mount to. Just a guess.
Angle Iron
his from H10 middle buster manual, might at least give you some ideas.
H10_middlebuster.jpg
 
I agree that it wouldn't pull it but most 3 pt's. don't have down pressure. To sink that ripper you might need it but maybe not once you get enough power to pull it. Dave
 
Thanks for the pic, thats kind of how it was describe to me.
Yes, i realize it will be quite a load on a M, but it was built for the M, i guess thats what the depth stop chains are for. And it is mostly for show but id like it to be functional just to play with it.
 
I pulled a three shank Big Ox with a 97 HP Oliver 1850. It was all it wanted to do. Run it 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 feet deep. The problem I had was keeping it from going to deep. Kind feel that is going to be a load for that tractor. Sorry
gitrib
 
50 years is to long to remrmber but i beleive IH rear mount lister had 2" cylinders that were pinned to bracket on front side of axle and pushed a tube mounted on swing rods that slipped into bottom of lift all pump then rods from there over axle to lister which lifted it. this may have used a similar system by looking at picture
 
That's not a ripper.

It's a parking brake....sock it in the ground and you ain't going nowhere with that tractor. And if you could pull it, god forbid you ever hook onto a big root or vein of rock....you'd have two cracked, if not broken, axle housings.
 
I believe you"re going to be quite pleased with that set up. It won"t be able to employ draft control but that"s no big deal. I have a Brillion 3 shank subsoiler that uses the same type parabolic shanks, 1" in width, and 2" ripper points. I pull it (3 pt hitch) with 54 drawbar HP at about 3 1/2 mph. That"s 18 HP per shank. About the same as your M with two shanks. Don"t worry about hitting rocks with it. My bet is that that thing has hit plenty of rocks. At the slow speed you"ll be travelling and the weight of the tractor it won"t be a problem. Here"s what will happen. If you hit a moveable rock the shank, due to the parabolic design, will tend to pull the rock up and out of the ground. If you hit an unmoveable rock, it will stop the tractor. Either the wheels will spin or the engine will stall. I"m betting, unless you have extremely light soil, that you will only be able to pull it about half way in on the first pass. as your soil becomes more mellow, you"ll be able to pull it all the way down. One problem you"ll have is wrap around material if your fields are trashy. Consider discing the field first if that is the case.
 
Those things would work HERE in the mellow soil of west Tn. Have seen more than one mounted on M
About half way down it will just like the guy says stall the tractor or pull the root out.
I am not certain but I think the Athen Plow company became Taylor-Way equipment in Athens
Tn. E-mail me and I will give you a phone number
of one of their old timers that would know..
 
That would give my M nightmares. That wouldn't fly around here. We put nine of those shanks behind almost 300 hp just to make it work. Your setup would get them talking at the local power show though!!
 
JMOR"s drawing is right much the same as the row cultivators were the setup under the pump was nothing more than a pivot point for the cylinder arms. I would wear a flack jacket much like the NFL quarterbacks and a mouth piece because that dude will stop you cold unless you"re doing sandy soil if you hit a rock or boulder and then you"ll eat the steering wheel, even at 3mph it"s like doing 60 I did that once pulling 6X16s along a fence row with a 1466 and hit a tree root stopped that girl cold and chipped a tooth on the steering wheel.
 
That outfit was designed to run at about 15" deep and that was twice the depth that plowing was done at those tines and it would break up the hardpan at those normal depths. and the 23 MAX PTO HP Ford was designed to pull 1 shank of that size. You guys that need that much power are pulling something else other that what this was designed for.
 

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