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Wood Burning Furnace in my shop

C

craigreavley

Member
I just bought a wood burning funace at Lowes. It is a stand alone furnace that will heat 3000 sq ft. It requires a 6 inch chimney that i want to run up about 6 feet, 90 horizontally, and through the steel wall the up at least 8 or 9 more feet. I just didnt want to cut a hole in the roof. Do I need double or tripple wall stainless for the chimney. I plan on 24 gauge black pipe from the furnace to with in a foot or two of the wall. Lowes sells double wall stainless that has insulation between the inner and outer pipes. Anyone have a good online source for the chimney parts I need. Is there any advantage to using an 8 inch chimney or will 6 do. the stove has a 6 inch collar for the flu. I could up it to 8 right at the stove. If necessary
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Nice Morton.

I think you want to stick with 6 inch.

I think double wall is for what you want.

I think triple wall is for stoves that draw air in in the outer gap?

It would be best to go up through the roof - I do understand why you don't want to.

--->Paul
 
Larry it is a Ragland Building out of Hopedale Illinois. They just finished it a few weeks ago. I have 12 foot ceilings and have a 12 foot by 16 foot door on opposite side. Some day I may own an RV and need the big door. This building has been a dream of my for 20 years and finally it is coming true. The front door is 8 foot by 16 feet. This is my new tractor storage, and work shop If you look close at the weather vane ontop of the cupullas you will see the tractor instead of a horse, or roster.
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Check local building codes and your homeowners insurance. What ever you do, Don"t take short cuts.
I spent last sunday hosing down a pole barn
where the homeowner built his own waste oil/wood
burner furnace.
When the smoke cleared I saw the remains of an
Oliver 60, side curtains and all. One of My
favorite tractors!
 
Nice building ! Triple wall is $$ but it is the best you can get . Typically double stainless sandwiching layer of ceramic . No fresh air vents. I have itfor my chimminey at home. You can run black pipe inside up to a foot or so from wall or ceiling . Check codes or fire regs ,if you will be getting inspected .If not follow pipe manufacturers rec sheet . I went through the wall in my house , but only because of the way it is built . If I was you ,I would go through the roof . Much better draft . The systems they have for roof flashing and caps these dayds you won't have to worry about any leaks ! I have waste oil burner at my shop , went through roof , no leaks 10 years now.
 
Nice building Craig.
Been "dreaming"/planning something similar for our place - probably won't get to go that big though. Justin doing to have a work area?

Molly K's Dad
 
I would go through the roof too. That horizontal pipe is a good place for soot & creosote to build up & cause truble.
 
check with ins before do anything had unit in first shop took out cause of insurance. over time the chimeny will have runs down sides and on the shed that is common. i would go with radiant heater instead alot less work cleaner and no smoke. good luck I am putting on addition to my curent shop 60 by 60 addition. good luck
 
Forgot to mention ,through the roof will be alot easier to clean out . The bends do tend to build up , hard to clean and they rust out LOTS faster
 
Don't want to dump rain on your design but with a beautiful shop such as yours I would not even think about a wood stove/furnace for heat. It's messy,dirty. creosote will eventually be a problem, flues and stacks will get bad disc oloration from condensation laden with creosote and on and on. Electrical radiant fixtures are my choice and forced air gas/propane furnace,ceiling or floor mounted would be second.If you insist on wood have you considered and outdoors furnace? I don't know how they work but think they can get pretty involved which brings us back to electrical radiant heaters as an option.Good Luck.JH
 
Nice building let me guess, it is a 28x60 size.......Maybe.

I would check with your insurance company on what you need, going straight out the roof is best and use stainless once it is out of the building.
 
If the stove calls for 6" I'd use that, too big and it won't draft properly. I put a woodstove in our living room last year with an installation similar to what you describe. Buy the recommended flue, wall thimble, and chimney and you'll be fine. The flue and chimney sections are joined with the small end down, that way any creosote stays inside instead of leaking out as it would if you have the larger end facing down. The stove added $100 to our fire insurance but saves several times that in heating oil.

The horizontal run you describe doesn't sound right, keep that as short as you can. I put a heat shield made of concrete backer board covered with tile on the wall behind the stove, mounted so it stands off from the wall by about 1" so air can flow around it. It gets warm but the wall behind stays cold to the touch.

I used single wall flue inside (it radiates a lot of heat), the thimble is triple wall, and the chimney is double wall; neither the thimble nor the chimney have any insulation. Thimble works amazingly well, the outer shield never even gets warm. I had the chimney cleaned last summer, the sweep said there was a small amount of creosote near the top, he suggested we build a hot fire at least once a week to cook it off.
 
Through the roof is a bad idea,you will be fighting leaks for ever and it will soot up your new roof.Go through the side wall and stand a piece of pipe up for a chimney.The building will stay clean and you can always remove it and not have a hole in the roof to patch.
 
(quoted from post at 13:01:04 01/23/10) I would consult with a HVAC engineer before cutting into your nice shop, do it right the first time is always best.
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Typical poor batting average that most questions seem to receive. Fellow asked should I use 6 inch or 8 inch pipe. @ out of 14 responsed actually addressed his question. Everyone else (including myself) went off on some tangen as to what he ought to do &amp; most of the time those were, "here is what I did and you ought to do it my way". It never stops, whether it is a tractor question or whatever. Just watch the threads &amp; see how seldom it is that someone directly answers a fellows question. It is amazing, the "I know what is better for you than you do, so do it my way" attitudes!
 
(quoted from post at 13:10:15 01/23/10) It is amazing, the "I know what is better for you than you do, so do it my way" attitudes!
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Sort of like people telling other people how they should post?
 
Don't know if you have poured your floor yet but if you haven't look into outdoor wood burner with lines run through the floor will heat very well with your high ceiling and make better use of the space in the building, I have one and it works great.
 
Chris, I don't care how you or anyone else posts, but I do think that when a person asks a question that he deserves a straight answer. 2 out of 14 isn't very good.
 
Some very good replies form everyone. Especially Tom H in PA & John Harmon. If you (REALLY) insist on a wood burner I would use triple wall stainless chimney. Costly but worth it. I would not be concerned about leaks if you go out of the roof. If done correctly with todays products you will NOT have a leak & you can clean your chimney easily & correctly. I would be concerned about a long horizontal run as this & on the elbows on the corners is where you will have problems with ash setting & creosote build up. You can put a Tee on the corners rather than a Ninety so you can clean out the horizontal but those get real pricey. If your wood burner in designed for a 6" flue use a 6" flue. Gerald
 
It happens on here all the time. Not long ago, I asked about a source for serpentine belt diagrams and got all kinds of advice about how I should have done it better. The one that REALLY chapped my back side was the "take a picture of it before you take it off" reply. I guess this guy has never had a belt break.
 
(quoted from post at 14:08:45 01/23/10) It happens on here all the time. Not long ago, I asked about a source for serpentine belt diagrams and got all kinds of advice about how I should have done it better. The one that REALLY chapped my back side was the "take a picture of it before you take it off" reply. I guess this guy has never had a belt break.
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know! Some responses get so far afield, that you have to go back to the top just to be sure that what you are reading wasn't intended as a response to some totally different question???????????!!! As, here, was the question, "I have purchased a wood heater for my shop, should I return it and buy an electric or propane heater?"
smiley9_headbanger-1.gif
 
If you haven't poured the floor yet, put heat tubes
in the floor as 4430JD says. If its too late for that, you should use double wall insulated pipe to
get thru the wall and up the outside. Selkirk has
all the fittings you need. BUT IT AIN'T CHEAP
Metalbestos works on the principle of keeping the
smoke warm till it exits the chimney. This will
greatly reduce the formation of creosote on the
inside of the pipe. doesn't help the cap at all
you will need a long stick to beat on the cap
once in a while You can clean the outside MB at
the T on the bottom by pulling the plug.
Triple wall works on the principle of cooling
the smoke so it doesn't burn your building up.
BUT that creates creosote in the pipe stay away
from Triple wall.
On the inside of the building you can use
heavy gauge stove pipe if the connector on the
stove is 6" use 6" MB and 6" inside stovepipe.
The only way I would put the chimney thru the
roof is if I could go thru the peak of the roof.
Selkirk Metalbestos
 
Nice shop, I'm jealous! I have installed a couple lately, used metalbestos brand, work great! If the stove has a 6" collar then that should be adequate, but going straight up is better for draft and cleaning, any horizontal run will have to be taken apart periodically for cleaning. Dry wood is the key. I just learned that the steam from evaporating moisture severely retards the secondary burn, which is a fair percentage of the heat. Our cabin has a steel roof like yours and the roof flashing fit right under the ridge cap so there is no chance of leak, been fine for years. Also the closer to the ridge its easier to achieve the 2' above anything within 10' rule. Most new stoves recommend 15' of vertical flue above the stove. Good luck!
 
If your new wood furnace calls for 6" pipe, then stick with that size. Using bigger pipe just results in a cooler running chimney that gets dirtier faster.

As far a double wall versus triple wall . . . you cannot judge the quality or performance of the pipe just by how many walls it has. The best pipe is the most fireproof (burn-out proof) and the most able to stay warm. Canadian specs call for pipe to withstand a chimney fire three times as long as US pipe specs.

Often the better Canadian pipe is not more expensive. Now, there may be more USA versions around that meet the Candian specs (I haven't checked lately).

Selkirk Canadian version SF Sentinel was the best on the market for years. CAN/ULC 4 S629 M84 Standard. Rated to 1200 degrees F continuous, 1700 degrees overfire for one hour, and 2100 degrees F for 30 minutes, three times - i.e. 90 minutes in all. It also has over 2" of insulation and stays very warm and clean.

The USA standard is lower: UL-103HT requires the chimney to withstand three 10 minute chimney fires at 2100°F. Rated for 1000 degrees F continuous.
 
I was facing the same problem when I added a wood burning stove in my house back in the 70's. I didn't want to go straight up and into the attic. I went up out of my stove about 2 1/2 ft. then used a 90 and into the garage wall, and another tee in my garage with a clean out and up and through the garage roof. Where I went through the wall, and up in my garage I used double walled SS stove pipe. I used a product called metal bestos. Inside the house I used straight stove pipe. Metal Bestos *brand name) is a pipe with stainless on inside, and outside, and filled with a non combustalbe material. My stove has a 7 in opening, and I reduced it down to 6 in at the stove, and haven't ever had a problem.
Stan
 
Beautiful building~! As one other poster suggested, I would set it up with radiant heat. I would also opt for an outdoor boiler to heat the shop and your house. I have radiant in my 28x32 shop and it was the best thing I ever did. Floor is always comfortable to work on and your feet stay warm even if you only keep it at 45 degrees. I have seperate controls and pumps for the house and shop and we have not seen the oil truck in our yard for more than 3 years.

Before you commit, look at all of the options out there. Good Luck!
 
Nice shop. Some times you just have to wait til the budget allows you to have your dream. If the furnace has a six inch flue then you need to use six inch. Horizontal runs do ash and creosote up, but, they give off a tremendous amount of heat that would other wise be lost up the chimney. How thick is the foil faced insulstion you used under your steel.If the budget allows add some pex heat lines inyour floor. Ther are ways to use your furnace to put heated water in your floor. Great job happy dream come true--gobble
 
Schmuck, I'd like to formally and publicly apologise to you for making the comment "take a picture of it before you take it off". I failed to notice that the belt was already broken, and I'm sorry for that failure. I didn't post that to hassle you, and I hope you can forgive me.

Sincerely,
Paul
 
Beautiful shop, I love it. When I put my furnace in my shop I felt the same way about going through the roof. But people on this site spoke of the draw problems associated with horizontal through the wall piping. I decided to bite the bullet and go through the roof. It works perfectly. I bought a kit at Lowes and did it myself. Double wall flue works fine. Good luck. You will love the heat however you run it.
 
Beautiful shop, I love it. When I put my furnace in my shop I felt the same way about going through the roof. But people on this site spoke of the draw problems associated with horizontal through the wall piping. I decided to bite the bullet and go through the roof. It works perfectly. I bought a kit at Lowes and did it myself. Double wall flue works fine. Good luck. You will love the heat however you run it.
 
Thanks. I probably made a bigger deal out of it than I should have, but it was the wrong thing to see at the time. I won't mention it again.
 
Ive installed SS chimneys and know that it costs less to go thru the roof and leaks are not a problem.Cleaning is easy as the crud goes down into the stove.I see no problem with telling people the best way to do something.If his furnace has a 6 inch collar,thats the size pipe to use.Out thru the wall is expensive,it requires an expensive support and more expensive SS chimney.If you went out thru the wall with wood frame constuction and plain stove pipe you would need a 3 foot square hole in the wall.we have a post saying you shouldnt burn wood.You will have a hard time finding a house that doesnt use wood fuel here.I have over 100 acres of wood land here, no coal ,no natural gas , propane, or oil on the place so I burn wood.I cut only poor trees, the better stuff will be left to grow or used in my sawmill.
 
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