removal of crud from engine water jacket

buickanddeere

Well-known Member
Anybody have a favorite elixir to remove crud from an engine's water jacket?
It's a PH1 type Petteroid that was used by a local Amish to run a milking machine. The engine was more air cooled than water cooled as the cylinder head coolant passages were blocked.
The only reason the engine survived years of abuse. Is that the milking was completed in only 20-30 minutes and the engine shutdown before overheating and seizing.
The head had been hot tanked at the local engine shop. Then I've hammered and picked out then sand blasted all the crud that can be reached. The stuff is in there in layers like tree rings.
I assume the crud is a baked mixture of Barrs Leak and minerals/dirt from the livestock watertrough.
 
What about a commercial descaler like what would be used in boiler applications? I can’t remember the name of the stuff, but we had some at the last place I worked that was a powder that mixed with water. It was somewhat acidic and would soften the scale and rust. Or maybe just a strong mix of CLR and a lot of soaking.
 
CWL beat me to it. I'd try CLR mixed pretty strong. What's the worst that could happen? Besides, Paul Harvey said it would work on just about anything.
 
Try some muriatic acid. Back in the 70's we bought the salvage rights to the sewer plant at an ex WW2 prisoner of war camp in New Mexico and removed alot of big cast iron gate valves that had sat for 30+ years with sewer in them. Needless to say, alot of rust and gunk. We soaked each one in 55 gal barrels of muriatic acid, and they cleaned right up.
 
I just pulled apart a Continental Z134 gas engine in a Ferguson TO35, and one cylinder was literally packed full 3/4s of the way up with a sort of hard red clay-like material. I had to chip much out with a long chisel and screwdriver. And, the cyinder wall still looks fine. You'd think it would of overheated.

If your's is anything like this one, no chemical is going to ruin all the crud.
 
Use lye and cold! water. Stop up any ports or flanges to prevent leakage, but leave an open top hole. We have Red Devil brand lye around here, but probably any lye is suitable. Mix it to thin paste/liquid, pour it in slowly! and stand back. It will get really hot and maybe spatter when it starts working, but it really eats garbage like that up, and doesn't harm steel or cast iron. However, it will eat right through aluminum or pot metal, zinc cast, etc. Try it and good luck.
 
My brother was a chemical encineer. He helped me clean out an I.H. water system by using "Bowl cleaner". We drained out the water and filled with water and about a pint of bowlcleaner. We ran the engine for about 10 minutes and shut it iff. after it cooled for about 15 minutes, we drained and refill with fresh water. Ran the engine untill hot drained and refilled with water and about a box of arm&hammer baking soda. After running the engine untill hot, we drained, flushed the system and then filled with antifreeze mixture.
That was 9 years ago and no heating or other issues have been encountered.
 

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