setting valves

just finished settig valves after rebuild of engine, waukasha 232 6 cyl, firing order 153624, just curious as to what might happen if #1 wasnt on compresion but intake strock when started procedure. engine run backward ????? anyone know??

If the the engine wasn't on #1 firing stroke when you started and you set the valves in firing order, some will be WAY too tight, some will be WAY too loose, and some will probably be about right.

If you have ANY doubts, better run through 'em again.

Works different on different engines. Valve lash is what determines valve timing - that is the reason for proper adjustment going by the generalized factory setting that works "good enough" for all. It's also the reason why some engines run better when custom adjusted with a degree wheel and NOT to factory specs with a feeler gauge. Not very important on a farm tractor, but sometimes critical on race engines.

More to you point, like already said, if in doubt, do it over. I find that with most engines, when one valve is fully open, the other (closed valve) can be adjusted. I've double-checked that procedure against the factory procedure,and so far - it has always worked. That is, excpept for engines with cam-operated compression releases.

What I have done is take a feeler gauge and adjust while its running.You want them close before you start so you want to make sure none of them are too tight or too loose before you try to start the engine so they dont bend pushrods or valves.This might not work either.

Another thing you can do is turn the engine until its ready to set number 1.Look close at your adjusters.Will you have to move either on a long ways in comaparison to the rest of them to get it adjusted?Is one of them tight?Are the valves on 6 loose?If you dont like what you see turn it over again to number 1.Are both sides a little loose?If so you are on the right stroke and can do them by the firing order after that.
If you have any trouble post again and maybe I can help.

It won't run backwards. If you hold your thumb over No1 plug hole while someone hand cranks the engine you will feel pressure against your thumb
and once you're at TDC on the compression stroke
you can now adjust these valves 1,2,3,6,7& 10. That's counting from the radiator end if its in the tractor. Then bring No6 piston to TDC on the compression and then adjust valves 4,5,8,9,11 & 12. Hal

Here is a good way to tell when a cylinder is on top dead center.
Take the firing order 153624

First 3 numbers
153
624

When # 1 is TDC # 6 valves will be on the just opening of one and closing of the other.
Rock the engine back and forth a small amount to make sure.
Use the same method to find any other piston at TDC. this will work on any engine except the Wankel.
Walt

see walter davis answer. he's correct

Hello rocko,
Here is a how to adjust the valves on a 4 stroke engine with the firing order of 15362.
This procedure is from Chilton's manual.
With # 1 at firing position TDC:
Adjust 1.2.4 intake valves.
Adjust 1.3.5 exhaust valves.
With #6 at firing positon TDC:
Adjust 3.5.6 intake valves.
Adjust 2.4.6. exhaust valves.............DONE!
You can verify the adjustment of your valves with this procecure before you start the engine.
Guido.

Walt,

I have been using that procedure for years,

it doesn't work on 3 cyl engines as there is no

opposite piston up .Locate #1 tdc, do #1, then

rotate 2/3 revolution and do next in firing

order.

george

These "trick" procedures 'may' work on some stock engines with bone stock cams, but with ANY kind of performance grind, or even a "more modern" grind, the valve timing is different.

The other method mentioned above about when the opposite cylinder has both valves equally open is known as "split overlap" and THAT also does not apply with more modern, especially performance grinds.---That is, "split overlap" does not happen at TDC

THE ONLY sure way to set valves is the following, and it won't matter if you are working on a bone stock Chivvy 6 or a AA fuel dragster

You remember EO IC

What you do is, start at one end, and bump the engine until the EXHAUST valve just starts to open (EO) and SET THE INTAKE on that cylinder

Next, you bump the engine until the INTAKE comes clear open, and continue "a little" until it is ALMOST CLOSED --(IC), then SET THE EXHAUST on that cylinder.

What this method does is to make absolutely sure that the lifter/ tappet is resting on the round backside (base circle) of the camshaft

Just continue down the row, being careful, of course, to identify each intake / exhaust.

There is no need to use the messy method of setting valves when running.

I usually take the desired size feeler, and one about .002 bigger and use it for a "no go"