O/T Will It Work?

Allan in NE · Jan 4, 2010

Trying to save/repair/salvage/doctor this body. That right anchor will not stay in place under use; the other one is "iffy" at best.

Bought some "wood" epoxy and am wondering if anyone has ever used it with success?

Thanks,

Allan

Anonymous-0 · Jan 4, 2010

What the ----is it?

IaGary · Jan 4, 2010

Epoxy is pretty tuff stuff.

Make sure you have it in a warm place to cure.

Gary

TomH in PA · Jan 4, 2010

Looks like a guitar to me. Don't know whether or not epoxy would hold though. Another option would be to route off the entire area and glue in a replacement piece.

TGIN · Jan 4, 2010

No problem , just weld a couple metal fence post together and stick in the big hole then fill all the small holes up with ATF , It will purr like a kitten !!

Heyseed · Jan 4, 2010

try and drill some small sideways holes that will give the glue some teeth, and if the inserts will come out cut some small ridges in them also. That way it has something to hold onto.

Allan in NE · Jan 4, 2010

To be honest with ya, it's a derned mess. :>(

This tremolo block pivots on these two funky little screws that screw into those anchors.

String tension yanks one way and spring tension the other, so there's a good deal of pressure on those anchors and they have be firmly embedded.

I'm at my wits end on this project. A replacement is $750 and Mrs. Allan isn't gonna aprove the chit on this outlay. :>(

Allan

Walterdavies · Jan 4, 2010

Looks like junk to me. Replace it. Never seen a repair like that ever work out.
Walt

Anonymous-0 · Jan 4, 2010

I always read all your post. Seems there is nthing you can,t fix or try. Off all the folks on here you are the one guy I would like to meet.
I can,t even post photos and you post a vido playing a guitar that was great. Looks like you are having your share of winter. I was in your area last spring when you had the 26 incher..
Hang in there ,get that guitar fixed, keep running those IH HYDROs and last of all don,t quit posting.

Allan in NE · Jan 4, 2010

Oh heck,

I'm half retarded and the only place my wife will let me play is on the 'puter. :>)

Allan

Allan in NE · Jan 4, 2010

That just isn't an option.

I'm thinkin' yank those silly brass anchors clear out, fill the holes about half full of epoxy and then press the brass jokers right back in?

Darned things are about 1 1/4" long, but they "rock" in their holes a bit because the wood has given way at the top 3/8" or so (you can see where I've tried to repair that one side with slivers made from tooth picks).

They have to be solid to the wood in order to work right.

Allan

Mark-Mi · Jan 4, 2010

Tom ,I think you got the right idea. Mark

Brian Love · Jan 4, 2010

fiberglass

simpsonc9 · Jan 4, 2010

There is this stuff called Rapid-Fix that will bond just about anything and you can even fill in stuff with it. It's expensive but the stuff is very impressive.

Take a look at the website for more info, the video will show how it works.

http://www.rapid-fix.com/HOME.html

Best part is it's made in Michigan!

OH Boy · Jan 4, 2010

Gorilla Glue would hold it together I bet

John730D · Jan 4, 2010

Can you bolt all the way through? Maybe countersink on the back side? Just a thought.

Anonymous-0 · Jan 4, 2010

I'm not sure what wood epoxy is but if it is thick I wouldn't use it. I would use West System epoxy with 403 micro-fibers mixed in it for strength but still keeping it on the runny side. I would try to enlarge the holes so the epoxy has a bigger surface area to bond to and to bear the load when put back in use. Mount the bar onto the brass inserts with a layer of polyethylene film between the bar and the glue so it won't be bonded to the wet glue and insert them into the glue. A bit of grease on the threads will enable disassembly when the epoxy is cured.

Anonymous-0 · Jan 4, 2010

That looks like the right hand door handle mount for an old Essex Tri Directional . My neighbor has one sitting in his cousins wifes dads barn . I would try fiberglass resin ,tough stuff and fluid enough to get in the voids

ScottyHOMeY · Jan 4, 2010

Good Lord! Comin' to a bunch of tractor mechanics to fix a guitar. LOL!

Reminds me of a fella up in Bradley, Maine, had a sign hangin' off the tree in his front yard -- "Violin and Chain Saw Repairs"

Errin OH · Jan 4, 2010

If'n it were me I would drill out the old holes to good wood. Using a good boat epoxy made for wood, glue in a solid plug. Then re-drill the needed holes for the inserts.

Another option, but more work, would be to use a router to remove the whole section and glue in a new piece. Drilling new holes.

However you do it, it would need to be clamp down good until cured and be a tight fit for the new piece.

TonyIN · Jan 4, 2010

Looks like someone was putting the "whammy" in whammy bar. That"s some impressive work there.

I would have to agree with Tom as well... that metal to wood connection on those was a tight fit friction deal and I doubt with the stresses a tremolo presents that you will get a long term solution otherwise.

Being a recovering tone addict myself, I would be highly tempted to go the wood block path. Then it could potentially make things better if the wood block you rout in is of another species - i.e. one to increase sustain or warm things up a bit. may also be worth dovetailing or fingering in the new species for better transfer of the wood"s tone...

Good luck and if you don"t mind, drop me an email with the solution that works out.

Doug in Illinois · Jan 4, 2010

Allan:

Have you been flying on United Airlines?

This is old news, but still a fun video on YouTube: United Breaks Guitars.

DOUG

Bill in IL · Jan 4, 2010

I think if you can get that epoxy applied where you want it it will hold fine. I have used it on some questionable things with success. Just watch out for the overruns but I am sure this is not your first time with the stuff.

Owen Aaland · Jan 4, 2010

I think I would remove both anchors and fill the holes with fiberglass with some mat fibers mixed in to give added strength. If the resin is thin enough it will soak into the wood fibers to get good adhesion. After the fiberglass has set up you can drill holes so that the anchors will again be a press fit. It should end up being stronger than original.

jpapier · Jan 5, 2010

Wood epoxy filler. Pull the brass inserts and reset in epoxy. Use it to replace the toothpicks and any damaged wood too.

T_Bone · Jan 5, 2010

Hi Allan,

I'd make a template of the hole layout, then replace the plywood with a piece of hardwood scabbed into the plywood with a glued 1/2 lapp joint, then fiberglass finish to conform to the original configuration then set the new anchors in epoxy.

Anything less, then I think your wasting your time as there's too much stress at that joint for the existing plywood too continue too work as designed.

T_Bone

Allan in NE · Jan 5, 2010

Hi Neighbor,

'Spose I'd better fess up here.

That guitar 'was' a Roland Ready made in Mexico, which I bought for a little of nothin' on ebay.

It originally had a 6 bolt bridge and we all know bad they sound. Also had a rosewood neck out of the box.

Anyhoo, I started converting it for a good working Strat tone and I drilled those two holes about 20 years ago so I could mount the "pivot" style trem.

Long story short, the only original part of that guitar is the body and it worked fine until that "thin" portion of the wood gave way and it wouldn't return to tune after using the gearshift handle. :>)

If it wasn't for the fact that I need that routed-out body for the synth pickup/wiring/controls, I'd just throw it away. But, I've searched and searched and ya just cannot buy a RR body without going back to a complete original RR guitar.

I doctored it last night and it's looking pretty darned good this morning. I'll let ya know how this all turns out.......makes the winter go faster ya know. :>)

Allan

Allan in NE · Jan 5, 2010

Hi Neighbor,

'Spose I'd better fess up here.

That guitar 'was' a Roland Ready made in Mexico, which I bought for a little of nothin' on ebay.

It originally had a 6 bolt bridge and we all know bad they sound. Also had a rosewood neck out of the box.

Anyhoo, I started converting it for a good working Strat tone and I drilled those two holes about 20 years ago so I could mount the "pivot" style trem.

Long story short, the only original part of that guitar is the body and it worked fine until that "thin" portion of the wood gave way and it wouldn't return to tune after using the gearshift handle. :>)

If it wasn't for the fact that I need that routed-out body for the synth pickup/wiring/controls, I'd just throw it away. But, I've searched and searched and ya just cannot buy a RR body without going back to a complete original RR guitar.

I doctored it last night and it's looking pretty darned good this morning. I'll let ya know how this all turns out.......makes the winter go faster ya know. :>)

Allan

Anonymous-0 · Jan 5, 2010

Allan E-mail you'r home address and I will send you a grizzly catalog or you can go to Grizzly.com they have all kinds of guitar parts and kits. it is a woodand metal crafters catalog.
Have a great day Jerry in arizona

O/T Will It Work?

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Well-known Member

Similar threads