OT? Go carts and clone engines

This is OFF TOPIC, doesn't have a thing to do with a tractor, so feel free to skip over and move on to the next thread!

I don't know where to find basic information on the 'net' on go carts and using these Chinese clone engines on them. I thought that perhaps somebody in the audience would know.

The majority of the go cart web sites assume you are an advanced go cart nut, know all the lingo and are neck deep in the 'sport'. Well, I am none of that...but am trying to fix up a go cart for the kids to ride around the place. I bought a new Harbor Freight 6.5 engine...but the throttle needs to be modified to work with a foot pedal...I need info on how to do this without buying a 'racing package' with a bunch of junk I/we have no need or desire for.

So, if any of you know of a general go cart web site I can visit and get the answers I need, I'd be in your debt. I am looking more for a shade tree mechanics page rather than a NASCAR-esque advanced racers site. Thanks!

Sometimes guys completely disconnect the governor and connect the throttle cable/linkage right to the carburetor for all-out racing, probably NOT the best idea for your kid-driven outfit.

For your basic people-hauler, I don't see where ANY mods would be needed... simple connect the cable or linkage from the gas pedal to the lever on the engine/governor mechanism where the hand throttle now connects and use a spring of adequate strength to pop the gas pedal back up when the driver "lets off the gas".

I've built go carts with my students, and have used engines of this type. It's not too hard when you actually look at what you've got.

Basically, these engines are set up with a throttle lever that stays in the position you set it at. Like on a lawn mower or snow blower. All we did was loosen the bolt that made the throttle lever "stay", then added a spring to the throttle lever that would work against your foot (or hand) lever to return the throttle to idle after you've revved it up. Sorry but I don't have a picture. When you get the engine, just take off the air filter and you should see the throttle lever. It's not that difficult.

Look for CFMOTO on the engine. They seem to stand up pretty good for a clone. I am doing a long term scooter test/articles for Scoot Tour Forum (used to be magazine) at 500/1000/2000/3000 mileposts on a 250cc touring scooter. It is dead-on Honda Helix clone, so far,....as far as the few parts I have had to replace: rear wheel bearings, intake boot, oil filter screen. The china tires are still going and the CV belt is too. Paul

You need to get a throttle cable similar to a motorcycle throttle cable and hook it to the throttle lever on the engine. You should be able to loosen the bolt that holds the throttle in position. You'll also need to set up a small spring to pull the throttle back to idle and possibly another spring to pull the throttle pedal back. For the drive, you can buy a torque-a-verter to put on the engine. It is centrifugal clutch that only engages when you rev up the engine. You can get them with a sprocket attached and then you need to get a bigger sprocket for the axle. You'll also need to set up some decent brakes. A disc brake from a motorcycle at a m/c wrecker would be one option. If you look on the net, there's probably a lot of info. An industrial supply that handles small engines and drive components would be a good place to look for all the accessories you'll need. Maybe even HF would carry some of it or know who does. Dave

just a little extra to advice already given...when you adjust your throttle cable you can preset maxx rpms depending where you tighten cable housing...kind of a poor mans governor.
i havent heard anything bad about the HF engines so far and theyre cheap enuff that even if they only last a couple years,it dont hurt too bad to throw away and replace...i'm a Briggs dealer and for the money,the Chinese engines are a bargain.

The forum at the link has a pretty decent bunch of folks, they use a lot of clones, and they help everybody from the 13 year old wannabes to the pro racers.
DIY Karts

Kids have 6.5HP clone that I added a Torqu-a-Vertor to on their go kart.
Starts on the first pull and seems to have lots of power to tear up my yard and driveway pulling donuts.
One dim witted child tried to cross the creek during high water and got stopped due to a wet drive belt. Water was up almost into the aircleaner but the engine was still running. The flywheel fan was pumping an impressive amount of water over the cooling fins.

B&D,

Tell me how that torque-a-verter works. I have seen them advertised and they don"t exactly give them away....seems like $150 rings a bell.

This 2 seater cart looks like those sold by TSC and has been ragged out before I got it. It has a centrifugal clutch direct to the left (driving) wheel. I am sure a jackshaft arrangement and some kind of torque amplifier would be the berries....but my 7 and 9 year olds are completely new to anything with an engine....so I think the KISS principle applies for now. By and by...something more elaborate will come along.

I opened the HF box and looked the engine over...it LOOKS as good as anything I have seen before...foreign or domestic. The proof is in the pudding....it"ll either go or blow, time will tell.

Thanks everybody for your replies and links.

That centrifugal clutch is going to take a lot of heat with new drivers.It's like starting in high gear all the time. It's ok for the race track but for around and around the house, not so well.
The smallest possible driving sprocket helps but they are a swine to keep the chain on and tight enough. Larger driven sprockets are not cheap either. We went with a driven sprocket that only clears the ground by 2".
One wheel drive? And probably no suspension is fine for paved track racing but.......It's going to be a challenge "off road".
Perhaps some more looking for a cart complete with an engine and drive train? Or maybe finding a old 250cc snowmobile with a complete torque converter drive for this cart?
The torque-a-verter is simple and handy. Bolts right onto the engine without requiring a jackshaft. No need to jockey the secondary pulley for alignment either. Just find the smallest #40 drive sprocket for the secondary pulley's shaft and go.
#35 chain is too light and fails rapidly.
The Comet -torqu-a-vertor even allows spring changes on the primary clutch to vary engagement and upshift rpm.
Top speed limiter weights are available too.Trying to limit engine rpms just makes the cart a clutch or belt smoker.
This cart has very heavy steel frame and roll cage, it takes some rpms to get rolling on rough ground. The 3300rpm springs work much better than the factory 2600rpm units out in the fields.
Wish I had bought a pre-made factory cart with suspension,brakes, electrics and torque converter. The Father-inlaws bargain home built cart has cost more $$$ to get less satisfaction.
Latest problem is the rear axle sliding sideways while the kids do donuts.One tire with a slow leak, one hub loose on the axle. And the drive chain torn off from rubbing the side of the torq-a-verter plate.
At least this will do the rear brake update all in one job. Adding a rotor to the rear axle and a 750 road bike rear pedal operated hydraulic disk brake.
I'm beginning to hate that *^^*)) cart.Better the kids smash it than a highway vehicle I guess.

Dont know crap about the engines or go carts, but buy them the best fitting helmet and all the safety equipment you can find.

Gene