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still no heat...bad thermostat?

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I put a new thermostat in my 2000 Chev 6.0 litre about a year ago because I wasn't getting heat like I used to. I just had the cooling system flushed and, in the shop, the heater would almost burn your hand. I drive down the road and only mildly warm air is coming out and the temp. gauge went down from just under 100C to about 75C. I put in a 188 deg.F Motorad thermostat(only temp. available for 6.0 litres) and am wondering if it might not be working right? I had an 87 Ford Ranger that only OEM thermostats worked properly. Could the 6.0 litre be the same kind of deal? It used to cook you out. Now if I put the switch to max I only get cold air. Any other ideas? Thanks. Dave
 
My 07 v6 is having a similar issue. It still puts out decent heat. It used to run about 200-210 all the time. Switched to synthetic oil, and now I can watch the temp swing up and down as I let off and pick up the throttle going down the highway. Runs about 190-205 now.
 
Aftermarket ones are not the correct temp. Getting to be more common had same problem when I just flushed system and replaced thermostat and antifreeze. When it was -12 the other morning I almost froze me ars going to work. Had to relace thermo with oem
00 6.0 w 200 k miles and still tickin :)
 
Dave when you get the new one. Hold both over a tea kettle with a pair of pliers. Watch them open together, then take them out of the steam and see if they both close at the same time. I have found that to be a problem.
Later Bob
 
This may sound strange but switch your hoses and where they connect to the heater. Some times when they clog doing that will make them work again because the flow is back wards of what it had been. Years ago we would do that once a year just to keep them working well
 
That's a good idea. OEM apparently calls for a 187 according to Motorad and that's why I put in, not 188. I'm wondering if the rad cap could also be part of the problem? It threads on the overflow bottle. I noticed there didn't seem to be a lot of pressure releasing when I topped it up after driving about 5 miles. Dave
 
Heater cores can become air bound.Feel the heater hoses when the engine is warm.Cold heater hoses,water isnt circulating thru the heater core.You can buy a bleeder fitting to put in the heater hose.Test thermostats in a tuna can full of water on the stove.Use a meat thermometer to test opening temp.
 
Feel the radiator hose and see if it's getting hot. If it's not hot when you touch it replace the thermostat. Get one that's 195 degrees. I put one in my old Mercury Cougar. It will run you out of there. Hal
 
I have never had good luck with non-Delco thermostats in GM vehicles. I don't know why; it seems to me that a thermostat is a thermostat, but the Delcoes just seem to work better.
 
IMO, thermostats and O2 sensors should only be OEM. I'm on my third thermostat in my van because the parts man was too lazy to order it and I thought I was just having bad luck. This time I'm going to bypass him and get it through the web.
 
You may have the same setup my borther has (his is an 01), MAX is for AC, not heat. Dealer fought it for 2 weeks before they fiqured out what he was doing. When the MAX button is pressed, the flapper changes to the AC side. He sets his temp all the way to heat, and the position to the def/floor mode and hasnt had any problems with heat since. Your problem could also be the fan clutch since its cooling back down going down the road.
 
By max I mean fastest heater motor speed. The temp gauge doesn't come up and stay there. It cools off when you start driving. It's frustrating after just having spent a chunk a money getting it flushed and stuff. Dave
 
OEM spec is, starts opening at 188 and fully open at 205. If your vehicle cools down driving it is because the coolant flow is not being controlled to maintain temperature. (thermostat).

NAPA has the correct(only) thermostat for this engine. Get the one that is built into the water outlet, not the separate one.

Flushing doesn't do anything except get rid of old coolant and dirt. The plus is, you have already done that and the thermostat is a simple change out.
 
My experience with those Motorad "failsafe" thermostats is they are junk. I put one in an 88 Bronco 2 I had. The first warm up it stuck open. Got a second one and it did the same thing. 3rd one was an ordinary thermostat and never had a problem afterwards. If the engine never gets warm, neither will the heater.
 
The only one available is the one attached to the inlet. It was a Motorad but not the failsafe one, I don't think. A new one from GM is $46! Kind of high for a thermostat but if it works, I'd be happy. A service advisor at a dealer told me another thing to check. He said if the top rad hose is warm, check at the thermostat housing if it is cold. That would indicate a bad thermostat. I'm going to do a couple checks before I replace the thermostat. I was also told the water pump might not be circulating enough coolant. Dave
 
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