flatbed trailer-deck/bed material? Need advice

Its time to replace the wood deck on my 20' flatbed tandem axle trailer.
I would like the perforated steel that is used for landing strips on dirt. I haven't been able to find any (at a reasonable $). sheet steel is more than I would like to pay. Diamond plate won't happen either.

I have little to none experience about this.
If I replace the wood, what kind of wood should I use?
What about the engineered/plastic type of material that is used on/for wood decks? Kinda of slippery I would think??????

I don't know. This is the trailer I use for hauling my tractor and anything else, except sand and gravel, (as it has no sides).

thanks,

Steve
 
My choices would be 1. used utility poles, sawn into lumber 2. white oak. There may be as good or better kinds of trees/lumber available to you locally....depending on where you are.
 
White oak or pressure treated SYP, or black locust if you could get
it. Utility pole lumber is great in some ways, but it has all kinds of
things in it, so be very careful not to breathe or get the dust on
you. I use hemlock for hay and utility wagons here on the farm and
it lasts for several years out in the weather. That said I don't drive
onto the wagons, and that would seem to require more strength.
Zach
 
I use Douglas Fir 2X12s and put then on sideways this gives plenty of strength and aids in loading. Use carriage bolts and lock nuts to bolt them down. You can also add some decking non-slip paint to make it better. the fir will last a long time and is easy to work with and if installed right will handle most any load. I did my last trailer for $100 plus bolts and labor. Also if you don't have them already add 1 1/2 in. lite angle iron to the edges Or 2X4s this gives the out side plenty of strength.
Walt

<a href="http://s77.photobucket.com/albums/j50/WaltDavies/?action=view&current=100_9951.jpg" target="_blank">
100_9951.jpg" border="0" alt="My newest Toy tilt trailer
</a>
 

Like the other post said, white oak. 2nd choice would be red oak Rough lumber is fine. It should be allowed to dry stacked up and stickered with some weight on top of the stack to prevent warping of the top boards. Pick boards that are mostly knot free and without cracks or holes from boring insects. Preserve with oil.

Manufactured decking does not look strong enough to me and slick as you say.

KEH
 
All my decks are rough cut white oak, the saw cuts add a little with traction, plenty strong, and durable exposed to weather. Mine sit outside all year and I normally get at least 10 years out of them, sometimes longer.
 
Apitong. It is a very strong and durable lumber. Several trailer companies only use Apitong. I had to replace damaged deck boards with oak before and had to replace them a second time before the original Apitong needed replacement. It is a little difficult to find, but well worth it.
 
Foundation grade treated 2x lumber. I did a trailer deck with that 7 or 8 years ago. There are no gaps yet.

The down side is that it IS HEAVY!

Gerald J.
 
Chiming in, white oak is good so long as there is no sap wood. Sap wood in any species isn't rot resistant. I prefer black locust over white oak, I have both. Red oak won't last as long due to the lack of tyloses in the open pores.

Kiln dried you have no need, just some air drying after the sawyer's finished. Better to have some idea of the moisture content when you use it.

There are a number of imported species that would work well, but probably cost you considerably more.
 
I was going to build sides for a trailer out of PT years ago but it seemed heavy. I stacked the material up before assembly to give it a trial lift and it was TOO HEAVY! I had already had good luck with hemlock, so thats what I used for the sides and they are still there twenty years later, alway kept outside. It lasts better than yellow pine and is much lighter than PT. There have been numerous posts in the past about oak not lasting all that well.
 
That wood is very nice for working. However, for Douglas fir to work optimally for strength, it has to remain wet. Douglas fir was used in many a mine shaft, but they were misted constantly with water. If allowed to wet and dry, they lost their strength, and shafts collapsed. It took the mining engineers a while before talking with foresters to learn why some mines caved in constantly - it was drier conditions where there wasn't constant water infiltration and wetting of the wood. There is 55+ year old Douglas fir beams holding strong in underground mines in northern Manitoba, not replaced yet.
Jason
 
WOW!

Lots of good advice!!!

I like the utility pole comment. That would last.

There some exotics from other countries available, which one of you mentioned.

The comment about doug fir and moisture was well appreciated to. As I live in a very dry climate. I hadn't considered that.

We used white oak on scaffolding in Louisiana. Very costly in CA. However, I am now looking on Craigslist for scaffolding boards, they are made of oak. Plenty around. I should be able to find some.

Thanks again all for your input.

sl
 
Back in the 1970's I replaced the floors on several 40' Semi Trailers and I used a wood called Apatong. It was what new Trailers were decked with at the time. See if it is still available. Long lasting and tough. No maintenancwe needed.
 
Rumber a material make from recycled tires and plastic.(made in Texas in I think) I have it on a 18 ft flat bed 2 ton GMC, a old 16t gooseneck stock trailer that I installed in the early 90s and a 2002 Gooseneck Brand Aluminum stock trailer that came from the factor with it. So far none show any wear, and cattle and horses stand well on it.
 

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