farmall c carb

i have a zenith carb and it was leqaking so i got a carb kit with needle and seat and gaskets idle needle.. i boiled out carb and installed needle and seat and idle screw , i couldn't get the well jet out but blew it out with air. i've adjusted the float several time,, it still leaks and doesn't run right.. idle adjustment doesn't help ,, the instructiion sheets shows main jet adjustment on bottom of carb, but not one on this carb,, the gasket is right, the float isn't hanging up,, what am i doing wrong thanks

A couple of thoughts.

First off, the main jet adjustment was only on the kero/distillate carbs. A gas-only carb will not have it.

By leak --- is it leaking around the bowl gasket, or is it leaking at the bottom? If the latter, I suspect your carb is alright and you're just flooding it. The 113/123 is notorious for not taking much choke at all. If it doesn't start in the first two or three turns with the choke closed, open the choke back up wide before cranking any more or you WILL have gas running out the bottom of your carb.

this is based on carb for a cub
if it is leaking between the top and bottom of the carb then the carb top needs straightened.
very common on cubs when somebody has had a carb apart and then tightened the screws too tight
good luck
Ron

it's leaks out of bottom when motor is off,, like the float needs more adjustment?i've adjusted it several times too much and gas doesn't fill bowl,, too little and it runs out of carb,,, but it won't idle and can't be adjusted ,, the idle adjustment screw does nothing.. it's like it is getting too much gas i have the valve at settlement bowl barely open to try to control it .. does adjustment of the float, control amount of gas to engine..thanks

1) It sounds like it's flooded so don't expect it to start and run in that state. Are your plugs wet aftr cranking? That would confirm the flooding issue. From thee, you could change plugs and let it all sit and air out and start back in with very little choke.

2) The idle adustment screw won't do anything until it's running, and then will only even out the fuel at idle. The load fuel in those carbs is all regulated with the routing and relative size of the ports machined into the carb.

3) The float doesn't DIRECTLY control the amount of gas to the engine. That's done with the load porting and idle screw. What it does do is regulate the amount of fuel available in the bowl for them to do what they do.

4) A good float and needle will keep gas from flowing uncontrolled from the tank, even with the tractor off and the valve on the sediment bowl left wide open. So . . .
a) is your float good? Good means that the bulbs are hollow AND empty, no pinholes. If they develop holes and allow fuel to get inside them they won't float and do their job. You can adjust to a faretheewell, but if the float won't float . . .
b) Are you making your adjustment from the face of the gasket, not just the bare carb body?
c) Are the needle and its seat in the carb both in good shape and absolutely free of anything in the way of gum or the least fleck of anything that would block the tip of the needle from seating.

4) Does it run at all, but just won't idle?

the float is good new needle and seat with little spring it runs but little black smoke and rough , but can't get to idle and the adjustment screw does nothing,, new gas clean tank

Evilbolwevl,
In the same type carburetor in three different tractors in the last year, I have found leaking floats (sometimes called sunken floats). In two of the three, I removed the floats from the arm and soldered on good floats canabalized from old carbs to solve the problem. FOR SAFETY DO NOT USE AN OPEN FLAME SOURCE FOR THE PROJECT. I used a heavy duty electric soldering iron and rosin core electrical solder for the project with excellent results. Do not use acid core solder unless you want the same problem repeated next year. If this is the problem and you choose to replace the old floats. To unsolder the old float, find the vent hole used by the manufacturer to solder up the float, usually a small 1/8" circle of solder in the middle of one of the sides; drill a 1/16" or smaller hole in the center and heat the float lightly with the hole down to force out the old gasoline. You can't unsolder the old unit until all the gasoline is out of the float. When empty the old solder on the arm will melt easily for removal of the float. You don't have to vent the new floats when soldering them in place. If the problem is an open seam and you decide to try soldering it back, vent the float and remove all the gasoline; clean the seam as best you can with lacquer thinner and 000 steel wool. Apply a light coat of Oatey's #5 tinning solder to the seam, (a plumbing item from Lowes), with the electric soldering iron run a seam of rosin core solder along the joint making sure you get a bright complete seam. Using the same technique, solder up the vent hole.
KM

Jim from AZ
Without thinking I addressed my previous post to evilbowevil. Hope the advise is helpful......
sorry all for the slip in pototcol.
KM

hi thanks, but the floats are o k no gas in them and they are straight i must not have adjustment right

I had the one on my super C rebuilt twice and still had problems with it. I brought a new one from this site and tractor has never ran better. That was three years ago and its still doing fine. Never touch a thing on it, just installed it.

Jim, see my post below for Farmall 400 won't start. Just one more thing to check.

thanks i will check that from what i remember it looked like new but i will check to see if there is a worn spot thanks jim