Re: Need advice on Corrugated Roof

Not on my computer,,,,,

Classic versus Modern view options. No font size or color in Classic view (unless you know how to code it with HTML)

makes sense,I'm always in classic view.Thanks everyone for the replies. bull mart

Not T_Bone, but he's somebody I respect.

A traditional standing seam roof uses folded metal to maintain the seal, takes two folds. No exposed fasteners, no neoprene seals, no caulk. Works like a dream, if more labor intensive. I've got a leaky crappy Onduline roof on my shop that will get replaced with standing seam next spring.

Butyl's a good caulk, but it doesn't replace a better roof. When I recycled some translucent panels made by Kalwall on my lumber shed, Kalwall said to use butyl to seal. It didn't work as well as EPDM, sold to me by an outfit in Baltimore who said they'd sell me butyl, but that it would leak.

They were right. But this was not corrugated roofing.

Butyl caulk is your friend. The best caulking around-- bar none.

I do not want to upset anyone, but that calk is not allowed on any of my projects--100% silicone is the only one allowerd.

I can certianly show anyone numerous calk failures using the butyl calk. It may be ok for indoor use, but not on anything that is exposed to our climate.

It is the easy calk to use, as there are no strings to deal with, and clean up is next to nothing compared to 100% silicone. Silicone can not be painted is another big drawback however, but N/A in 99% of my work.

As a example, check out the thin layer of calk holding the fish tanks together at the corners, under water for 24 / 7, it's 100% silicone.

I don't get into Butyl caulk either. I will use silicone, but much prefer urethane sealant (architectural grade material) Sika marine, or PL door and Window. I use screws and neoprene washers, then put a glob of urethane on each, spreading it to bond to the roof. Use plastic gloves !!
I do not think it is necessary to use it on the laps, unless the pitch of the roof is low, and the possible wind direction is going to blow into the open side of the lap. (plan against that!!)
JimN

Well I"m just going to answer all in this post since the OP thread was fragmented so bad.

The pic of the standing seam Tom has shown is not used all that much in the SM trade any longer. The one that replaced that one looks very similar and it has a "L" leg on it"s side, aka the male part of the joint, then a inverted "U" clip fits over the "L" to hold the SM to the structure then another "U" slips over the "L" and the clip then a set of seamer tongs will button punch the standing seam so it can not come apart.

A very strong joint design and can be machine made or hand made very easy.
Common sizes:
"L"= 15/16" or 1-3/8"
"U"= 1" or 1-1/2"

As too the butyl caulk. Here"s a simple test as too why use Butyl vs Silicon. Take 4pcs of any gage of SM, same length and width, smear on Butyl on two pieces then stick them together and let dry a couple days. Do the same with the silicon.

Now try to separate the metals and see what happens. You will tear the butyl SM up trying to separate the SM as it seals and adheres to SM better than any other type of caulk.

You can also ask any roofing inspector about butyl. He will tell you he"s not seen a leak with using Butyl caulk.

T_Bone

These translucent panels had butyl originally, leaked badly. The manufacturer, Kalwall, still recommends butyl. The installers gave up on it and used cases of silicone.

I bypassed both and used EPDM. No leaks. BTW, the reason for roof replacement was minor hail damage which gave me an opportunity to get it cheap.

Maybe not in Arizona, but there are still a lot of guys here making a nice living using pedal seamers (stompers). The 100 yr roofs here are either standing seam or slate. The track record is excellent and a simple set of tools allows me to do my roofing solo.

I have standing seam on my house, garage and breezeway. Not
cheap, but lasts 50 years or better. Mine has been on 5 years now
and looks just like the day it was put on, except for under the
trees. I wash that every spring. If you're in a region with a lot of
snow, be sure to install snow dams. You'd be surprised to see how
fast and hard snow can come off that sucker.

Hi Tom,

There's no doubt in my mind what your saying didn't happen and those were your results. What caused that problem for the leak to happen is your call as you seen the problem that I can only talk about and you know me, experience talks and BS walks, so there must have been a bad problem.

My experience with Butyl has been in Co, Az, Or and Wa, with excellent results, no negatives.

The only experience I have with EDPM, is the 5'er rubber roof seals. 11yr old roof and the factory applied EDPM is starting to leak. The first leak was because of a poor joint design so I can really blame the EDPM just yet.

T_Bone

Well, I guess I learned something today.
Thanks for the explanation of standing seam roofs.

Judging from what the pic on the left shows, some mobile home's have a type of standing seam roofs.

Ronnie

I use Butyl Caulk on the roof of my 5th wheel,thats what the factory uses.never had a leak