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Larry in CO

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OK, I give up. I"ve got a 91 S10 PU that got to where the starter wouldn"t engage - just whirr. I took the starter out and replaced it. Since then it maybe has started half a dozen times. I can short across the selinoid and it will work but not using the switch. I"ve replace both battery cables and cleaned up the connections. I have bypassed the clutch safety switch and even run a new wire straight from the back side of the clutch safety switch directly to the selinoid. I replaced the ignition switch mounted on top of the steering column. Battery is good and has passed a load test. Durn thing still won"t start. Any and all suggestions are welcome before I resort to more drastic, and destructive measures. BTW, just to keep this tractor related, it's blocking my H in the garage and I can't use it... Thanks, Larry
 
Did you check the "crank" fuse under the dash? How many small terminals are on the replacement starter solenoid?
 
Just checked the fuse. It's OK. Another thing I didn't mention is when you turn the key to "Start", the dash lights dim. I keep thinking it's a ground problem but can't figure out where it would be. Larry
 
OK,probe the "crank" fuse with a grounded test lamp to see if there is power while holding the switch to the crank position.Also to see if there is power coming out at the safety switch you bypassed,then lastly power at the purple wire going to solenoid.

Should mention to disable the ignition sys. by unplugging the coil wire before testing.

You're sure the battery terminals are clean/tight?
 
Sorry, I should have mentioned in my first post that I've probed the safety switch as well as the purple wire. Good voltage both places. The battery terminals as well as the other end of both the positive and ground cables have been cleaned. Thanks for the suggestions. Keep 'em coming. Larry
 
Check the small ground wire from the battery to the fender. had the same problem a few times before. this wire usally burns in half creating your problem.
 
Larry,


Where does the ground cable from the battery connect to the truck? I have no idea about an S-10, but I do know that on many older vehicles there was a braided wire that connected from the engine to the frame or to the firewall to insure that the engine had a good ground connection.

Obviously, if your battery's ground connection goes directly to the engine, that's the end of the story. But if your battery ground connection goes to the frame, you might see how the engine gets a solid ground.

Good luck,

Tom in TN
 
Tom,

The ground goes directly to one of the intake manifold bolts. I have taken all the connections apart and cleaned them, new cables and still nothing. Thanks, larry
 
Umm, that doesn't sound right. If your ohmmeter gives an infinite reading (the same as it will when you hold the two leads apart in the air) then there is no connection. If it reads zero ohms there is no resistance and the connection is good. I know little about chevy's but somethings about multimeters. Hope this helps, Sam
 
you have power going somewhere is the only reason for the dash light dimming.I would try chasing the solenoid start wire it could be grounded out or even on the wrong pole of the starter.The start wire has to make a few twist and turns before it gets to the starter not to mention having to pass by exhaust parts.good luck
 
Roy,

I thought about that so I ran a new wire straight from the clutch safety switch to the solenoid via a new hole thru the firewall. So no breaks in that. There's only one pole on the solenoid to attach the wire to. Thanks, Larry
 
Len,

I replaced the ignition switch on the steering column just in case. Not the tumbler part, but the switch that's mounted on the column and activated by a rod from the key switch. Still no go. Thanks, Larry
 
Check the ground from the body to the frame. I think you have a junk rebuilt starter,it wouldn t be the first or the last.
 
Since you said you replaced the ignition switch. Do you have it adjusted right so that when you put it in the start postion that it goes fully in to the start postion on the switch? I had that problem on my 1989 s-10. Also check the ground on the under side of the dash by the parking brake handle. I think its one wire and also holds the bottom of the dash tight, it will make your radio go crazy if loose!
 
Andy,

I think it's adjusted right. I'll check the ground wire under the dash tomorrow. Getting a little dark and colder here now. Thanks, Larry
 
do you have a fusible link on starter wire near solenoid? dont know how to test em so I cut em out and replace em with another
 
Brian,

I don't believe there is a fusible link there. Anyway, I ran a separate wire straight from the clutch safety switch to the solenoid and bypassed the original wire and junction block on the firewall. Thanks, Larry
 
gonna have to follow the voltage. Only way to find the problem is track it to where the voltage quits. make sure you have the correct voltage at the ignition switch and follow the sequence.
 
Don't have the key with the resistor in it do you? Otherwise, set your meter(or simple test light) for voltage DC and follow the trail. Has to be broken somewhere. Ford had bump switch where you got hit when parked and would not start. Don't know if chevy has this. From what you are saying I would think solenoid not closing even if new. Take jumper cables, go from ground on frame or really clean shiny spot and other to big post on starter. Out of gear and block wheels and parking brake. This will check batt and starter only. Will not check solenoid which could also be damaged by overtighening(year, I did that>) Good luck and please post back when you solve mystery.
 
barn E, Thanks for the suggestions. I will certainly post back when I figure this one out. I will try any and all suggestions tomorrow. Thanks, Larry
 
My next step would be to try another battery that is known to be good. I'm not a big believer in battery load testing. Long story behind that statement.
 
You need to use a volt meter to check for voltage to the S terminal on the solenoid when the start switch is twisted to the start position.
This will required a helper. Since the engine will crank when shorting across the terminals is a good indication you're not getting battery voltage to the S terminal as it only has voltage when cranking. Hal
 
If you have a one wire solenoid tickler, check the ground of the solenoid itself.
(mounting screws insulated with rust or paint)
 
(quoted from post at 13:04:21 11/13/09) You need to use a volt meter to check for voltage to the S terminal on the solenoid when the start switch is twisted to the start position.
This will required a helper. Since the engine will crank when shorting across the terminals is a good indication you're not getting battery voltage to the S terminal as it only has voltage when cranking. Hal
Click to expand...

put battery power positive to the small terminal on the solenoid.
If starter engages. Starter is good. Not well you know the deal.

This will verify starter is good. Jumping between big posts only tests the starter motor not the solenoid.

Joe
 
Never worked on one of those. But on the 1500 series Chevy trucks, the solenoid first moves a linkage that engages the starter drive gear to the flywheel and then makes the contact between the battery terminal and the starter motor. Check that.
 
Thanks for all the hints. When the weather clears up a little, I'll get a chance to work on it some more. I guarantee when I get it fixed, I'll let you all know what the solution was. Larry
 
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