Grinder mixer

Does anyone use a electric motor on their grinder mixer. I'm assuming a 100 bu. machine with a 3 to 1 gear box or belt reduction to get the rpms down to around 540. Thanks

Gonna take a big motor.

Or feed the grain in real slow.

It will take a lot of HP just to turn the mixer.

What horsepower tractor is reccommended to drive
the 540 PTO?
If more than 10 HP, is 3 phase power available?
Gearbox could cost almost as much as the motor,
or Heavy pillow blocks for jackshafts, plus
pulleys and belts adds up also.

You'll need a thirty horse motor if you want to get anything done and that size motor will be 3PH. Smaller will work but you'll be dribbling the grain in all day long.

I used a B Farmall (18 piston engine horse) to unload an Artsway 320 grinder mixer once, and it was all the little girl had just to run the mixer and unloading auger. The regular grinder tractor conked out while I was unloading so I used the B to finish the job while the grinder was sitting on the jack. If I remember right, I engaged the mill without running any grain through it just to see what kind of load it would put on the tractor and the tractor wouldn't hardly do it.Jim

Agreed. We "tried" to use an H (about 22hp)on a Gheil 100 grinder mixer a couple times in a pinch and usually quit after only getting it a 1/3 full while grinding milo. I wouldn't even think of trying it with corn.

Can you turn up the power jet on the H ? . thats what I do on the ZENITH carbs on My SC and DC CASE .last nite had the SC CASE grinding a load of cow feed ,,alfalfa hay ,ear corn ,, It did alright , good thing it wasn't acting sickly , usually grind with the DC ,,, BIG DIFFERENCE , The DC will work your fanny off feeding the grinder ..

4bottom, I have a little bit of experience running tub grinders with electric motors and know that the normal formula of 1 electric HP being the equivalent of 2 PTO horsepower goes out the window.Becase the electic motor will not tolerate being pulled down,a good starting point is 1 to 1.In other words if you need 100 PTO HP to run your mill, that is the size electric motor you will need.I realize that sounds a little bit "out there" but been there done that.Now I'm sure that there are tons of guys out there who will jump all over that but my 2 cents worth Good Luck

Thanks folks Just had a wild idea ED

I worked at a feedmill for several years, we had 2 hammermills. The small one had a 70HP 3 phase motor and it would only grind about 5 tons an hour. The bigger one was about the size of my NH grinder mixer and it had a 100HP 3 phase motor. I would grind about 10 tons an hour.

When I went to National FFA convention back in the day, they took us on a feed mill tour. We got to stand on the catwalks, and look sdown on the main electric motor that ran the main hammer mill. They said it was direct 4000v lines running the motor, you could see the thick rods that were the main power line into the motor.

Was very impressive.

My 50/55 Gehl mill is comfortable with a 35 hp tractor on it, but I have to feed it slow with ear corn. Would probably do better with 50-75 hp running it.

As the others say, it works, but I doubt you have the setup to make it go in a timely fashion. Unless you can tie into your main electric feed before the transformer? (Just kidding....)

--->Paul

Had 2 mixers, both 100 bu machines (been a few years, so I'm not sure of the models, NH 355 and JD 400........I think). Basic mix started with 40 bu of shelled corn......cracked but not turned into powder. Used a 300 bu JD buggy to feed the corn into the mill. Either mixer would stall a 4020 if you didn't carefully regulate the feed rate. Usually used either a 1066 or 4430. We had other stuff to do rather than taking half a day to grind 5 or 6 tubs of feed.........

Why gear the motor down to 540 rpm then turn around and belt the rpms back up to 3600 or so for the mill?
There would be a loss of approx 15% stepping down then stepping up again.
If on single phase power it would require one 3600rpm 16HP Baldor direct coupled to the mill.
Plus a 2nd 5-10HP motor with a reduction drive to spin the mixer and unloader sections. A shaft speed of 540rpm would not be required, 100-200rpm would be lots.
It"s not a foolish idea by any means.
If your farm is on 3 phase power then you are in a very prcatical situation.

My friend has a NewHolland grinder mixer, a tow behind a 350 something. He runs his 2-85 White on it, 85 horsepower. He grinds ear corn and oats. In the past he may have used his junk case 400 or 700 or 701 I'm not sure what they are, all I know is I cant believe he ran a farm with them Case tractors, and still does!

Hi 4 bottem,

I would look for a used VW diesel engine and use jack shafts for the drives.

Cheap too run and maintain for no more than your going too use it.

T_Bone

I think the 80-100 HP mark is where you want to be... I run a NH 355. It's rated up to 110 HP. I've got a Ford 7710 turned up to about 105 and it can still make her work. That's either a 16" or 18" mill with 100 bu tank. Can't remember the mill size for certain... Think it's 18" actually.

For all you'd probably do (and I say this because you're talking about a grinder mixer), I think you could find an old 100 hp pelter of unwanted paint color and put it to work for less money than you'll have in drive belts for an electric setup.

Rod

Rod, how did you turn up the 7710? Or is that your secret? Maybe the pump? Id like a 7710 cab 4wd, but it's not in the cards for me right now. May be a bit to big for my operation also. For now its mt trusty 4610 ford. God, is there any other tractors out there as good as these Fords, or is it just me....lol j

Pop the cap off the max fuel adjustment screw on top of the pump, loosen the jamb nut and back the screw out 1-1/4 turn. Reset the jamb nut and put the cap back on. Under a minute if you're good.

I actually set the rack travel on mine to 17% over where it was... which works out to 1-1/4 turns.
Then you install a pyrometer in the exhaust pipe just beyond the turbo because at that level of fuel there is enough heat there to probably do damage if you keep her lugging...

Rod

Would I be able to turn up a rotary pump any on a 4610 or 4600? I mean I dont need to do that to my tractors, but I was wondering about them. A 5610 is only 10 hp more right, so were did that come from? Maybe there 4 cylinders though I cant remeber.! Jay

I think the 355 mill is 21 inch.

Yes, the rotary pumps can be turned up too, but not as easily.
Those require the removal of the side plate, then you've got to get some small wrenches and reach inside, loosen the end plates on the cam ring I beleive... give it a bit of a turn... then retighten. I've never played with one of them and it's a long time since I read the pump theory on that part of the pump. I just know it can be done...
Beyond that... I don't think I'd bother turning up either the 4610 or 5610. The 201 is probably near the top of what it's going to make without a turbo. The 256 could make a bit more tho, but it would probably be somewhat less efficient. The 7710's were popular for winding up because they had the turbo. They could scavenge the heat and make enough boost to burn a fair bit more fuel... and they generally had a driveline that would take it fairly well provided you didn't abuse the clutch too much.
The 4610 would take a bunch more power through the tractor I think... but you'd just be limited in what the engine could make (it would make more smoke than power)... and it would constantly be running hot as they didn't really have enough cooling system anyway. That was one other thing that the 7710 could generally ~manage~ fairly well.

I'm toying with the idea right now of turbocharging a 201, probably with many of the 7710's internal components... then adding some serious fan capacity. This would be for a 3930 chassis; the idea being it would be pushed to 65+ hp.
I've also toyed with the idea of going even more with the 201... letting the pump out to maximum, which would put the engine in the 100 hp bracket, then installing it in a Ranger. I just don't know how the 3 cylinder, non nitrided crank will last at that power level...
I think that would make a 30-35 mpg Ranger instead of a 15-20 mpg Ranger.

Rod