Truck battery on tractor

Is it ok to use a heavy duty truck battery on a diesel tractor if you get one with high cranking amps? I have a 7700 ford. I know somebody who has one on a 3000 ford diesel, said he bought one of the big high priced battery's once and it lasted about a year with no warranty. He has been running a wall-mart truck battery ever since. About ten years now!

You"d be suprised what you have to use in a pinch, don"t think it will hurt, it is all volts and amps, the starter does not care as long as it gets what it wants!

As long as the battery is the correct voltage and has enough CCA to do the job then a battery from the point is pretty much a battery and does not matter if it is a car, truck or tractor battery. Shoot I have used lawn mower battery's in a Ford 8N at one time. Not really big enough as for CCA but in a pinch it did the job

Sure...

I use the 1000 cca Walmart specials in all mine.

I used two of them on the 895 Versatile - that old 855 Cummins engine took quite a bit to turn it over...

Howard

You can try it, but if it's cold natured or you deal with a lot of cold starting a car or light truck battery will not have the cranking power of the 4DLT that the 7700 calls for.
The basic problem on that tractor is the low height of the battery box... so you're limited to a group 17 or 24 battery (I think those are the numbers) which are about half the size of a 4DLT. A group 27 or 31 truck battery is great but it won't fit... without making a new box somewhere.
Better off to just buy a decent battery from a Delco dealer or Cat. It's going to cost you but it will outlast the Exide's that NewHolland sells...

Rod

I have a car battery in a 318 JD lawn mower and a lawn mower battery in a Super C.

I have a car battery from Walmart in my garden tractor. Its about 8 years old. Hal

long time since I saw that old Toro mower. Grandpa had one with a sulky, used to cut his grass with it. Sold at his sale in 85
ron

I have a Toro Whirlwind just like the one behind your tractor. Do you use yours much? Mine runs fine but is too small for the yard. I took it 20 years ago to keep it from the scrapper.

When I raised pole lima beans that mower made short work of the vines. I bought it used in 1976 when it was 2 years old. It came with a sulky, but I sold it since I never used it. I rebuilt the engine about 15 years ago. The cylinder had to be bored oversize, crankshaft had to be ground undersize .020". I think the exhaust valve had to be replaced too. I reused the main bearings. With a new piston & rod it was like new again. My neighbor had an area at the rear of his proptery was overgrown and he was trying to clear it with a Weedeater. I told him I had something that would make cut that brush like butter. He said to get it and I cut it down in about 20 minutes. He wanted to know what I wanted for doing it and I told him what he thought it was worth. He gave me $50.00.
He was soaking wet from being out there with his Weedeater as it was in the 90's. Some of these came with battery start and I could've put that on this mower, but its easier just to use the garden tractor to start it. The mower engine has a lot of compression and is hard to pull with a rope, even though I still start it with the rope at times. I still have some spare parts that came with it. I have 5 or 6 31" blades. Some have the the sickle bar mower sections on them that's been drilled to remove the rivets. Hal

I don't use it much anymore. I keep it in the mini-barn where it stays sheltered. It has Grassking on the owners manual, but I've seen Whirlwind too. Parts are scarce, but I have a spare clutch assy. Hope I don't need it. Hal

You can't really shop for a battery by looking one with "enough CCA".
Shopping for a battery requires finding an anti-vibration battery with the absolute highest CCA you can find which will barely squeeze into the battery holder.
Battery cables are another sore spot. The discount bin at the Wally World auto department doesn't count. Unless you are working on a garden tractor or a small outboard motor.
If the internal copper part of the cable isn't at least the dia of a dime. Leave it at the store.

Truck, commercial type batteries usually have short warranties, just like tractor batteries. My 92 Dodge diesel truck uses one.

There's a little more to than what Old stated. Cold cranking and reserve capacity both need to be high. Battery makers can play games, and "rob Peter to pay Paul", thus making one figure high and dropping the other. If high CCAs, and low RC, you get a few fast cranks, and then, you'll all done. You need both. Often, the actual weight of the battery tells the story.

The single battery that a 1st generation Dodge truck uses, with the 5.9 Cummins would work fine if the extra 1.5" height is not an issue. I've got it in several tractors. Type 31P, NAPA 7235 it has 1,075 cold cranking amps at zero, and a reserve capacity of 170 minutes. 13" long by 9.5" H by 6.75" W. weighs 70 lbs.

Your OEM battery has 900 CCA at zero and 240 RC. Less cranking amps, but can do so a bit longer than the Dodge truck battery. Weighs 80 lbs.

You can also stick in several combos of dual car batteries and get the same, or better power from the OEM single battery.

For example, two BCI 75 car batteries, hooked in parallel, will fit and give 1250 CCA at zero, and 230 RC. Some other car-types that can fit in pairs are: BCI 22, 26, 34, 42, 47, 58, and 74.

BOUght my LAST JUNKY A-z , cheapo walmart throwaway trash bucket POS thang , they call a battery this last june ,,, Yesterday , I needed to move the JD riding mower , and guess what? ,,, The batterry did not have enuf pizazz to start the JD ... next year it gets a dinky car battery !!@!!..

El Toro, Isn't that pup moter a bit of overkill for your rototiller. LOL
Don from Canada

If you have a Kenworth or Freightliner or big truck parts place around you can see if they have low maintenance batteries on sale.Sometimes you can buy a high cranking amp battery for 40 or 50 dollars.They last about 3 or 4 years in a big truck and you dont have to put water in them.If they will fit on your tractor you might save some money if they have enough cranking power to do the job.On a big battery like on a dozer or other construction equipment you might have to hook a couple of them together to get enough cranking power.They take vibration fairly well but I have hit a big hole in the road or something and a big shock will shorten their life considerably sometimes.

Don't know if I have the answer for you but when I farmed years ago in north central Illinois any thing that needed a battery eventually had a Farm&Fleet battery of the proper size and with a 3 year warranty rating put in it. We had a Mack B75 ,a Mack B61 and aKenworth k100 and they got the same batterys that we put in our AC 190 . Cars and Pick ups ,WD's,WD45's,our Gleaner combine and IHC Baler got different sizes of batterys but they all came from Farm&Fleet as did all our replacement tires. Standard Oil dealer and Riley route truck took care of our fuel and lubricant needs.

I quit buying walmart batteries a few years ago they are complete junk. I used to have to change them out weekly in a van my mom had. I'd take it in they'd say yep its bad and hand me another. I finally got sick of it and bought one at autozone. Hadnt had a problem since. I buy all of my batteries there, including the ones on our tractors. I have the same batteries in my 96 F-350 diesel as i do in our tractors. They are 800CC and they work just fine. Last year i had to change the battery cables in our MF135 they were very thin, and i couldnt get a clean connection onto them from the battery clamp. I bought some 2awg battery cables from autozone, and now the tractor has never cranked better.

Car batteries much superior to "tractor" batteries. Used to buy new tractor batteries every year. Car batteries last 6 or 7 years.