You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
- Thread starter 61uni
- Start date
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Yep I still have it and always will but I also own the manual it came from LOL
E-mail is open so if you need it just send me an e-mail
E-mail is open so if you need it just send me an e-mail
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
Add fluid if you have to but at least do your self a favor and use "rim guard" or diluted windshield washer fluid.
Adding salt water/calcium chloride is just inviting trouble. It's like raising weasels in a hen house.
Adding salt water/calcium chloride is just inviting trouble. It's like raising weasels in a hen house.
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
Rim guard or dilute windshield washer fluid.Depends on what you can find.
Tough to beat cast iron.
Tough to beat cast iron.
Calcium Chloride.
It only rusts the wheels if you let the tubes leak for month/years on end.
If you get a leak. Fix it. Wash the wheel when you have the tire broken down. We've got tractors here that have CaCl loaded tires on original wheels and been that way for 40 years.
If you don't want to use CaCl I'd sooenr spend the money on cast iron before I'd buy beet juice. Once you have cast, you never have to pump fluid again. That either saves you time/misery or money if you have it done for you. I'd also expect that the beet juice (Rim Guard) will put a bad hole in the cost of a similar amount of cast...
CaCl has been and continues to be used because it's cheap and effective.
Rod
It only rusts the wheels if you let the tubes leak for month/years on end.
If you get a leak. Fix it. Wash the wheel when you have the tire broken down. We've got tractors here that have CaCl loaded tires on original wheels and been that way for 40 years.
If you don't want to use CaCl I'd sooenr spend the money on cast iron before I'd buy beet juice. Once you have cast, you never have to pump fluid again. That either saves you time/misery or money if you have it done for you. I'd also expect that the beet juice (Rim Guard) will put a bad hole in the cost of a similar amount of cast...
CaCl has been and continues to be used because it's cheap and effective.
Rod
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Buy adapter for garden hose to valve stem. I farmed 25 years and used nothing but water and
a gallon of prestone in each rear tire. Never
had a problem with rust. Our elevation was 4500
feet . In 1979 it got to 15 degrees below zero.
A gallon of anti-freeze will keep anything from freezing solid.
a gallon of prestone in each rear tire. Never
had a problem with rust. Our elevation was 4500
feet . In 1979 it got to 15 degrees below zero.
A gallon of anti-freeze will keep anything from freezing solid.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
it will not rust your rims IF you don't have any leaks and have tubes in the tire
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
Why live with a problem and always have to on your guard against it? Best way to deal with a problem is to eliminate it all together.
One repair of a flat tire with fluid will cost more. Than just purchasing cast iron and running the tires dry.
One repair of a flat tire with fluid will cost more. Than just purchasing cast iron and running the tires dry.
I agree. One tire shop repair will pay for the cast today which is why I really don't understand why you or anyone else advocates using beet juice, antifreeze or anything else.
CaCl was, and is used because it's cheap and heavy... but I don't buy into the idea that it creates problems with wheels. CaCl also gets used here because most of us do our own tire repairs around here, save the fluid for years and years and years... so it's really a small cost to most of us.
Neglect is what causes problems with wheels. I had a tube leak for probably 2-3 years on a loaded tire here that required some repair around the stem hole on the wheel... but that's my own damn fault, not the calcium. For the most part tho, no trouble at all. There are some tractors here that are 40 years old and their tires/wheels have been loaded their entire lives.
On certain wheels you also can't add enough cast so you still need fluid... and one thing I do know. If I need fluid, it will be CaCl.
Rod
CaCl was, and is used because it's cheap and heavy... but I don't buy into the idea that it creates problems with wheels. CaCl also gets used here because most of us do our own tire repairs around here, save the fluid for years and years and years... so it's really a small cost to most of us.
Neglect is what causes problems with wheels. I had a tube leak for probably 2-3 years on a loaded tire here that required some repair around the stem hole on the wheel... but that's my own damn fault, not the calcium. For the most part tho, no trouble at all. There are some tractors here that are 40 years old and their tires/wheels have been loaded their entire lives.
On certain wheels you also can't add enough cast so you still need fluid... and one thing I do know. If I need fluid, it will be CaCl.
Rod
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
The two "major" farm tire services around here won"t touch a tire with anything other than Calcium chloride in them. (besides air) They don"t want to cross contaminate their equipment. (ie barrels, hoses, pump, ect)
I do all my own tire repairs. For the cost of a couple "hired repairs", I was able to buy everything I needed to do them myself. No need to wait until the truck gets there.
As you mentioned, I also have tractors that have had calcium chloride in the tires since new. Oldest currently is 39 years. The rims look as good as any you"ll find. Of course, I use tubes.
Calcium chloride is cheap, easy to come by, it works well, and isn"t near the problem that some make it out to be. I don"t see the need to "re-invent the wheel" so to speak.
I do all my own tire repairs. For the cost of a couple "hired repairs", I was able to buy everything I needed to do them myself. No need to wait until the truck gets there.
As you mentioned, I also have tractors that have had calcium chloride in the tires since new. Oldest currently is 39 years. The rims look as good as any you"ll find. Of course, I use tubes.
Calcium chloride is cheap, easy to come by, it works well, and isn"t near the problem that some make it out to be. I don"t see the need to "re-invent the wheel" so to speak.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
reply shoulda been under Rod's post (below)
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
A tractor can be over weighted as well as under weighted. A 2WD is supposed to go 115 to 145lbs per HP with 75% on the rear wheels.
An over weight tractor compacts the soil, suffers extra drive train wear and burns extra fuel hauling it's unneeded weight around.
Too many times it's somebody with more implement than tractor. They weigh the tractor down until it weighs what two tractor models larger would weigh. Then they lug the guts out of it while in low gear.
Next you hear crying about over heating and drive train/diff/final drive failures.
An over weight tractor compacts the soil, suffers extra drive train wear and burns extra fuel hauling it's unneeded weight around.
Too many times it's somebody with more implement than tractor. They weigh the tractor down until it weighs what two tractor models larger would weigh. Then they lug the guts out of it while in low gear.
Next you hear crying about over heating and drive train/diff/final drive failures.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Weight depends on amount of calc/chlor added to specific volume of water. The mix I use weighs in @ 10lb/gal. A more concentrated mix can go higher.
That's right. Why, just today I was dragging hay home with an 8500#, MFWD Ford 3930. 31 bales. Two wagons. Probably 25000#. 10+ % grade. Ole girl was lugging to 1800 in third gear.
Twas as close to the edge as I've ever come. I had to put the loader up to near full height on the steepest part of the hill to get enough weight transfer back on the Michelins before she spun out...
Rear end is just fine tho. I'll need a turbo and more injector before I break that.
It eats Kubota's for breakfast and Deere's for lunch.
Rod
Twas as close to the edge as I've ever come. I had to put the loader up to near full height on the steepest part of the hill to get enough weight transfer back on the Michelins before she spun out...
Rear end is just fine tho. I'll need a turbo and more injector before I break that.
It eats Kubota's for breakfast and Deere's for lunch.
Rod
It's the same around here. I'm sure there are some dealers around here that do the beet juice, but none that we deal with. My 1600 was loaded with CC from day 1, up until I had new tires installed 6 or 8 years ago.
Now it doesn't do any heavy tillage, only planting so it doesn't need the weight anymore. The rims still had the original paint on the inside, no rust. Our 285 is pretty good too, and it's had fluid in it since it was sold too. All of our tractors have it or have had it, and they're fine.
My brother's 550 on the other hand, the prev. owner didn't take very good care of it and the rims were shot. It had the hard to find 26" tires on it, so he opted to up them to 28". The tires were shot anyways so it would have been the same expense either way. Still needs to load the tires so he can do some loader work with it.
Donovan from Wisconsin
Now it doesn't do any heavy tillage, only planting so it doesn't need the weight anymore. The rims still had the original paint on the inside, no rust. Our 285 is pretty good too, and it's had fluid in it since it was sold too. All of our tractors have it or have had it, and they're fine.
My brother's 550 on the other hand, the prev. owner didn't take very good care of it and the rims were shot. It had the hard to find 26" tires on it, so he opted to up them to 28". The tires were shot anyways so it would have been the same expense either way. Still needs to load the tires so he can do some loader work with it.
Donovan from Wisconsin
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
So you are proud of nearly loosing control of 17 tons of load/equipment?
Lets see, you could wreck equipment, injure/cripple/kill yourself. And lets not forget innocent bystanders using the road.Having emergency personal exposed to risk. Impeding traffic.Health care costs and insurance claims.
Post your address so we can all stay well away from your "activities".
Lets see, you could wreck equipment, injure/cripple/kill yourself. And lets not forget innocent bystanders using the road.Having emergency personal exposed to risk. Impeding traffic.Health care costs and insurance claims.
Post your address so we can all stay well away from your "activities".
Brian Jasper co. Ia
Well-known Member
B&D, I agree with your thinking. I found out the other day that Ford has new programming for various engines to deal with the buildup in the throttle body. It seems like to me it would be better to get rid of the buildup than teach the PCM to deal with it...
My road, my rules. I'd be only so glad if john q public would stay the hell away.
As far as the risk goes... the worst that would happen is it would dig in and I'd have to leave it there, then walk home for one of the other tractors.
I've seen far more dangerous things done on a daily basis by the 'safety concious' people of the world.
Rod
As far as the risk goes... the worst that would happen is it would dig in and I'd have to leave it there, then walk home for one of the other tractors.
I've seen far more dangerous things done on a daily basis by the 'safety concious' people of the world.
Rod
buickanddeere
Well-known Member
They usually don't dig in.Either the front end rears up and over.Or the loads drags the tractor back down the hill inspite of all four wheels digging or braking.
Makes for a mess when the emergency crews come to clean up.
Makes for a mess when the emergency crews come to clean up.
Actually, in the 15000+ hours I've spent on these tractors I can't think of one single instance where they didn't dig in, and dig in deep. I'm not talking about driving on blacktop. This is loose gravel.
Getting shoved down a hill forwards is an entirely different matter. There is no controlling that... but uphill, you can fairly well control where you're going even if you do get hauled back.
What I do is not for the faint of heart but it's also not very dangerous to anyone who knows what they're doing on a given machine.
Rod
Getting shoved down a hill forwards is an entirely different matter. There is no controlling that... but uphill, you can fairly well control where you're going even if you do get hauled back.
What I do is not for the faint of heart but it's also not very dangerous to anyone who knows what they're doing on a given machine.
Rod
(quoted from post at 14:38:26 10/16/09) Yep I still have it and always will but I also own the manual it came from LOL
E-mail is open so if you need it just send me an e-mail
could I get a copy of the adding fluid to tractor tires?
Similar threads
- Replies
- 21
- Views
- 2K
- Replies
- 13
- Views
- 1K
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.
Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy