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Perkins Cylinder Head bolts

B

Banks Wallace

New User
I have a Massey Ferguson 245 with a Perkins ad3 diesel engine. It has blown the head gasket twice after a rebuild. I've been told I should replace the head bolts. my problem is there are 18 of them @ roughly $15.00 each from my local dealer. Seems like a ot of money for a hand full of bolts.

Any body have a less expensive source of head bolts?

Can used head bolts really cause the head gasket to blow?
 
Bolts could do that if they're stretched... but I'd be more inclined to put my time into chasing the holes in the block with a bottoming tap and getting the head shaved flat.
I know, cast iron heads on three cylinder engines don't warp... or so I've been told.
Tell the head shop to humor you and plane the damn thing. Check that the pilots aren't hanging the head up either. Something's doing it and I doubt it's the bolts.
Beyond that I dunno where you're going to get cheaper bolts unless one of the aftermarket suppliers has them... think of engien machine shops or sites like this, A&I and others that sell parts. don't expect much savings tho. Head bolts are rather special...
Also be sure that the liners aren't hanging the head up.

Rod
 
Did that the last time it blew. Head and block were resurfaced at rebuild. Head gasket blew with less than 40 hours on rebuild.
I chased all bolt holes with a tap.
Cleaned every thing, put a coat of engine oil in bolt holes.
Made sure there was no excess by bottoming bolt. Then installed head ant torqued the bolts in proper sequence.
Head gasket blew again after about 400 hour. near original point between #1 and #2 cylinder.

I did not re-torque. Is that a problem?
 
Did that the last time it blew. Head and block were resurfaced at rebuild. Head gasket blew with less than 40 hours on rebuild.
I chased all bolt holes with a tap.
Cleaned every thing, put a coat of engine oil in bolt holes.
Made sure there was no excess by bottoming bolt. Then installed head ant torqued the bolts in proper sequence.
Head gasket blew again after about 400 hour. near original point between #1 and #2 cylinder.

I did not re-torque. Is that a problem?
 
Retorque shouldn't have been a problem if it had enough, and mabey a bit more from the start.
I'd wonder about lube on the threads. That generally distorts the torque values. I try to do that as dry as possible.
If you've narrowed all else down then bolts would be the next logical step. Then I would recheck the torque.

Rod
 
Can"t comment on Perkins, but everything else I"ve seen recommends torqueing, running to warm up and re-torqueing...
ALSO: check your manual to see if your torque amounts are for clean dry threads or clean oiled threads, and if separate torque values are given for dry and oiled...
 

make sure top of liner has not slightly burnt away, or liner has slipped down ever so slightly. the fire ring has to get a good bite into the sleeve to seal--paul
 
You need to worry more about the cylinder head surface and block deck being flat and true to seal head gasket. If threads are stretched, twisted or damaged clean them on wire wheel and run die over them and also clean block threads out good with a tap.
 
Depending upon the gasket, not retorquing could well be the problem. I've seen diesel engines where even after retorquing after the first warmup, when checked again after 10 hours, the torque on some bolts was down to about half the original torque.
 
I have never retorqued a head that did not take more to bring it back up to torque specs. I always clean the threads in a block and clean the bolts. I also lube the threads and under the head of the bolts. Any bolt that shows a sign of stretch of the threads will be weak in that area and needs to be discarded. That will be the bolt or stud that will pull into on retorque. If anyone has got by using a stretched bolt either did not retorque or needs to buy lottery tickets. I hate having to remove the head to replace one stinkin broken bolt after it is up and running.
 
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