pole barn trusses

I am looking at building a pole barn in the spring. To help offset costs, I found some 36' trusses that were a result of a change in the homebuilders plans. There are 13 of them, so I was thinking that I can put them 4' o.c. to get a can get a 42' building. Can I use this trusses for a pole barn? If so, anybody have any building plans that show how to set these trusses correctly? Thanks for any input/help.

13 on 4 ft centers should give you a 48 ft long barn.

What is the rated snow load for your area? Are the trusses 2X4 or 6? $ foot should be good if pitch is good.
Question, Did he change his mind or find they did not meet local code or ?
Setting them is best with 2 people or equipment. I know that there are a few that can/do put them up alone, (one man).
Luck,

depends on what load they are designed to carry. both weight of roof/ceiling and SNOW.
also what kind of bracing will be needed for wind if plywood sheeting is not used.
IF everything comes out in your favor and you can use them consider going 56 feet long by building your own end trusses or using rafters on the ends and taller end posts for the siding
good luck
ron

I live in Wyoming & I beleive the snowload is 25#/sq.ft. Trusses are 4/12 pitch. It appears that they have a 2x6 on the top part & the rest of the truss is 2x4. That is just the picture & it could be an illusion, so maybe they are all 2x4? Would it still work. Wanted to find out as much info as I could before I got too interested in them & called the guy.

What pitch do other pole barns in the area have? What is the wind like in the location you will put it up? I would like a steeper pitch myself but if the price is right and you position it right for minimum snow build up you have a winner.

If the homebuilder was going to use them for a house, they are designed for 2 ft. on centers. Stretching to 4 ft. would really weaken your roof. Best find out the facts before jumping in on them.

I am just at the roof stage of my new barn. I bought used trusses and had the local building inspectorlook at them tell me what and how to beef them up. This was done at no cost but the permit.I saved alot of $$ and will have a safe roof when done. The right thing to do is ask the people who do this as a living.Best of luck

I just finished a 36x72 pole barn in SE IN.

Current practice in my area is to place the roof trusses on 8' centers with the 2x4 roof purlins set on edge for improved load bearing. For a combination of reasons, I wanted trusses on 4' centers and paid a rather small premium to have my building built with 4' OC trusses.

The trusses used in my 36x72 building with 18" overhangs are made of 2x6 material on the top and bottom with 2x4 internal bracing. Heavier trusses would have been used had it been built with the trusses on 8' centers but I do not know what size and strength materials would have beenused in this case.

Dean

Go to your local library look at a copy of "Practical Farm Buildings". It will answer your questions.

couple of posts are correct you must acuire the load specs for these and ask the manufacture if they will take the load at 4; on center most likly not. I have build several for myself and others. Agricultural buildings in western pa do not require permiting but you want to build it so it will stay

The best thing to do is ask the original builder what center the trusses were designed to be used on.
They are designed to carry a certain snow load and wind load which in my opinion will be the same for a house OR barn... and if your local codes suggest otherwise, you have stupid codes. So... if they were designed to work on 2' centers, use them on 2' centers. If they were designed to work on 4' centers, use them on 4' centers.
On a barn I'd prefer to strap the roof with 2x4 on 16' centers, then screw the steel to that if you were using steel, otherwise, if you're using shingles, do it with plywood the same as a house.
Basically, find out from the builder what center they were intended to be used on. That's the only real question you need to ask. Beyond that I'd likely add knee bracing under the trusses after the roof is framed up for extra wind rating.

Rod

I"ll second what Rod and MSD say. It is very rare (at least here in the midwest) to find residential roof trusses at any spacing other than 24" o.c. We may occasionally see them at 19.2" or 16". Odds are if they are residential, they were sized for drywall on the bottom chord, 1/2" plywood on the top chord, and asphalt shingles.
So... drywall really doesn"t like to span further than 24" especially on a ceiling, which further reinforces the notion they were setup for 24" spacing. Same with the 1/2" plywood sheathing and normal roof loading.
See also if the builder has the truss shop drawings. They should have been shipped with the trusses (around here in Southeast IN, you have to have these on site for your inspections). These drawings will not only give you load info and spacing, but also bracing info. Pay close attention to both erection bracing and final bracing. I"ve seen a few collapse during construction. The plywood roof sheathing is factored into the design of the trusses for lateral reasons also.
Last, be careful hanging anything or loading the bottom of these without additional support. Large point loads (splitting a tractor...) may overstree the truss.
There you go. More than any of us really wanted to know.