Removing wet sleeves- trick

Ken Christopherson · Oct 6, 2009

Just thought I would pass along a trick I came up with to removing wet sleeves from a block (and replacing the sleeves with new ones). I don't think I had mentioned it while restoring my Case SC, but it worked for me. Instead of buying a 4-600$ sleeve puller, here is what I did:
1) Took the engine block and mounted it to a engine stand. Flipped it upside down.
2) Took a cheap bottle jack (I say cheap because I ruined the $19.95 jack I used) jack it up all the way (or enough to get it to stick out of the block with the base of the jack on the bottom of the cylinder.
3) Grab a hammer and start whackin the jack (using the bottle jack as the base to drive them out of the block).
I had all of the cylinders out of the black in about a half hour, and I only had to spend $19.95 to replace my bottle jack.

Just a little trick if you are restoring on a budget and can't afford to buy an expensive tool.

mhmalcolm · Oct 6, 2009

I have always used a block of wood and a hand drilling hammer or small sledge hammer.

Moonlite37 · Oct 6, 2009

Take one of the pistons with the rings still on it and install it backwards. The rings will preventthe piston from passing through the sleeve. Punch on the piston with a bar and piston. When I worked for Allis Chalmers dealer We used a plunger pin from a New Holland baler for the bar.

Tim in OR · Oct 6, 2009

When I worked in a truck shop, they had a home made liner puller. it was basicly a piece of about 3/4" steel plate slightly larger than the liner diameter with 4 head bolts welded in the corners on end to create a table. The bolts were then braced to prevent them bending over. A hole in the center allowed a piece of all thread (about 3/4" if I remember correctly).
At the bottom of the all thread was a round piece of flat steel just the right size to pull the liner. it was attached with 2 ears and a bolt to the all thread. two sides of the disk were cut straight so you could tip the disk up parallel to the all thread and drop it down the liner to the bottom till it cleared, and then straightened out and it would hold. Tightening a nut on the all thread above the "table" would pull the liner pretty easily. We did lots of 855 cummins with that thing.
Tim in OR

Sam from WA · Oct 6, 2009

Use a large gear puller with the jaws turned around. I put a piece of pipe larger than the sleeve on top of the block, lay a chunk of 1" strap with a hole in the middle over the pipe, and hook the two puller jaws on the bottom of the sleeve. Turn the puller screw down and the sleeve with just pop right out. It works on any sleeve as long as the pullers jaws reach to the bottom of the sleeve.

El Toro · Oct 7, 2009

I drove them out on a Farmall A with a piece of 2 X 2 oak and and a big hammer. You need to clean that block area thoroughly where the new seals for the new sleeves are installed. I used dish detergent when installing the new sleeves so they would slide easily into the new seals. This was back in in 1975 & 1976. Hal

Welding man · Oct 7, 2009

I have removed hundreds of wet sleeves in the last 30 years and that is all I have ever used, a big hammer and a block of wood. Takes about 6 minutes to get them out of a 6 cylinder.

Removing wet sleeves- trick

Ken Christopherson

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mhmalcolm

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Moonlite37

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Tim in OR

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Sam from WA

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El Toro

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Welding man

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