how do you guys plow a field

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
when you guys plow a field do you start at the edge of the field and work toward the center or start in the center and work toward the edges thanks RICK
 
I start in the center and work out unless its on a slope that I need to plow all one way throwing up the hill.
 
One way the fisrt year.

The other way the following year.

You will thorw up a ridge where you start plowing.

You will leave a furrow or dip where you finish plowing.

You need to alternate to keep the ridge & furrow to a minumum.

I'd start on the outsides of the field, leave the furrow down the middle. Then the next year you know where the middle is - just plow into the old furrow.

--->PAul
 
I finally quit using a moldboard plow and started using a chisel plow. That way, you don't have to worry about a back furrow or dead furrow, plus it goes a lot faster.
 
Plowing, outside in...do a 360 at the corners, plow out of the ground :wink: .

Everything else, 90 degrees to the prevailing wind to keep the equipment out of the dust and finish outside in for the headlands.
Except drilling...same as plowing except you make a 90 degree turn and finish the corners with a couple passes away and back.

Our ground was pretty flat, no terraces.
 
for the most part, guys below are right. I try very hard to plow reverse of previous plowing, so that the back furrows, dead furrows get leveled next time around. Unfortunately, farm was rented and previous farming practices left ridges, troughs all over. I have been plowing and disking diagonally to try to level things out, as I break up old fields. Most of the farmers around here are chisel plowing now, and that apparently levels things out nicely. Note that many times they go diagonally as well.
 
With the one two and three bottom plows I plow in 45 pace lands. If I can not see the past years dead furrow I start at the edge and pace out 15 paces and flag it on both ends and start the back furrow. (throw the furrow to the falg both ways)
If I can see the dead furrow I throw my first back furrow to the center of the dead furrow and plow until I have a 45 pace plowed land. If the field has four or five dead furrows I start anywhere I happen to be when I can see where to drive. If someone else might help I might plow two or more rounds at each dead furrow so it ends up plowed the way I want it. When you have each dead furrow plowed 45 paces wide toward it you then have unplowed lands to plow between each plowed area.

Some times you will have a short land on one side if the field size was not laid out to those paces.(est. 3 foot step is a pace)

The idea of 45 pace lands is to keep the plow in the ground more than it is out of the ground on the ends.
 
Depends on the size and shape of the field. Small, irregular shapes may get plowed together one year, plowed out the next. Most fields need multiple lands, I like 10-12 rounds to a land, no matter if its a 3 bottom or a 6 bottom plow. But for most of the last ten years, everything is disc chiseled- no dead furrow, no lands, just back and forth across the field. Much faster and better for the soil in this area.
 
Start on one side and finish on the other.

Allan

forward.JPG
 
...you forgot to add, just drive real straight!:^) LOL! Saw your post about frost, we have about 30 acres of beans that might run tomorrow. We have had a very warm, dry September so crops remain very green. Cousin tried some beans last week, could not knock them out of the pods yet.
 
I know one thing you DO NOT want to go around throwing out. Bought a farm that been done that way. Had develped a big low spot in the middle by previous owner going around. Took a lot of blade work to get it back to normal. That is why they mad two way plows.

ritrib
 
All I break is a 60X150' garden and the tobacco ground. I turn the garden one way this year, flip it the other way next year. I break about 4 acres for tobacco ground every year and it moves every two years. I always try to have a long narrow tobacco patch, makes everthing go smoother, so I just mark the middle and through to the inside. When the last crop is off the ground I can smooth out the hump and dips with a chisel plow to put the ground back in row crops or pasture.

Dave
 
Do yourself and your land a favor and scrap that moldbaord plow. Read Edward Faulkner, "Plowmans Folly, And Harrry Young, Father of no til (1961)
An unplowed plot of land is a small ecosystem. With a cover, the organism area and a lower water drainage system. When you plow that you completely destroy the system, and sctually invert it so that the organisms and nutrients die, the cover is destrowed and a lower level hardpan will be created. This then will keep water from draining down, and also keep it from coming up.
DO some research. In this part of the U.S. you will see perhaps 1 acre in 500 being torn up with a moldboard plow.
A few old fashioned guys who learned from their fathers in the fifties still use the disc chisel. But 90% is no til.

Gordo
 
Good thing we have V-rippers.
Otherwise I gotta say I'd trust the KJV:

Proverbs 20:4 (King James Version)
The sluggard will not plow by reason of the cold; therefore shall he beg in harvest, and have nothing.
 
This is the way we do it in Oregon.
Walt

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if i didnt know better id say ol allen has one of them there reversabale plows from the looks of that field RICK
 
Love no till and chisel plows, but still need the mold board plow here in Wi. after 6-8 years we still have to use it or we have problems with too much trash on the surface.
 
We did it like Paul. Even running the chisel there was always some evidence of a deadfurrow when we moldboarded for seeding. We didn't like to chisel ground that was going back to hay because of the trash.
 
Does any body farm on the contour.My widest strip is 100 feet down to 70 feet. The correction strips get real strange.
 
Not in our part of Wisconsin. Plows are still alive and very well. A fair amount of guys use disc chisels as well, but the moldboard is still king here. Lots of clay makes no till hard, and the trash needs to go somewhere. Some guys do no till, but there really aren"t any benefits here. They usually drag out their plow after a couple years trying to make it work.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
I'm inclined to believe things have moved on since then.
Everyone knows if you are lazy and don't do the work then the benefits don't come forth,don't need some ancient book to tell us that, common sense really.
 
Brain was working a little slow yesterday when I posted about the left handed plow. Later on the lite bulb came on. Nice looking plow Allan. Looks like it does a great job.
 
I plow like Allen, he just has a much newer, much bigger setup then I do!

BN with a one bottom, two way plow (187), start on one side and work until you're done!

K
 
Allen, just noticed your "roll over" plow does not have coulters. Most every plow I've ever seen or used (Missouri) has coulters. Don't you need then in your country. What's the advantage either with or without???
Thanks, Cmore
 
Walt, Oregon must be the only place where they need an arrow in front to tell them which way to go.
 
Oh,

That's one of thosed things ya learn over many years of plowin' up heavy, irrigated cornstalks.

Although designed to make heavy trash "plow better", coulters are actually a hindrance.

Nothin' will plug a plow faster than a full set of coulters, especially if the stalks are moist, damp and tough in the springtime.

The fix is to hit the stalks with a disc first to cut/chop 'em up and then yank those silly coulters off and throw the dudes behind the shop in a pile. :>)

Allan
 
with a one-way plow (not like Allen's nice two-way) the only way to do it is to start in the middle and work your way out

unless you drive all the way back to the starting side of the field again to plow another row, which would take twice as long
 

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