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Pole Barn Plans

N

newfarmer9

Member
I'm looking at building a 30 x 40 x 12 pole shed to store some tractors in. Nothing fancy, just a run-of-the-mill shed with 1 overhead door on one of the endwalls, an access door at the front of one of the sidewalls (around the corner from the overhead door), and a sliding door on the back of the opposite sidewall.

Does anyone have a source of free, step-by-step plans for building a pole shed? I'm looking at doing it myself over the span of a summer, I've never built anything as big as this but I figure if I do lots of research and take my time I should be able to get er done. Will also have help and advice from "qualified" relatives and neighbours :wink:
 
Local Carter lumber and 84 have kits and give you the plans. If you talk to the manager you can buy the supplies piecemeal as you put it up. Word of warning if you use pressure treated poles get them braced and covered ASAP or they will warp in the sun. BTDT.
 
Assuming you live in the US, your county cooperative extension office can supply you with excellent material about barn construction for a very small fee. Well worth it.
 
I prefer laminated posts, ridge beam and rafters. most plans will not show one this way.
Building this way allows for a loft across most of it
Ron
 
I prefer laminated posts, ridge beam and rafters. most plans will not show one this way.
Building this way allows for a loft across most of it
Ron
 
I hope you have better luck than me our county and township rules are making it impossible to build one on my property it appears to be about the money gotta submit stamped plans by an archetech $$$ then pay for a permit $$$ more if installing electricals $$$ + plumbing $$$ forget it! Good Luck.
 
When I built mine I put in a cocrete foundation because the old barns stood for years on brick foundations not with poles in the dirt.

A ridge light is great, that is a clear fiber or plastic ridge cap that lets light thru.

Laminated posts made with treated 2 x 6's are stronger than a 6x6 and the treatment soaks in all the way of all the 2x6's.

I have two sliding doors in my shed and they are both the same width. Thinking that what comes in one door can fit thru the second door.
 
Most lumberyards can put together a pole barn package that includes rudimentary plans. I got my package from Carter Lumber. The local building department wanted an end view in addition to what Carter gave me; I drew that up myself, based on the bill of materials.

If you will be dealing with a building department, check with them first to find out what their expectations are. My building inspector was real fussy about how the posts were set: minimum 12 inch diameter concrete pad at the bottom of the hole, minimum 12 inches thick. Backfilled with a foot of pea gravel after setting the post.
 
I designed my own. Pretty simple, for an ag building here, I only needed a land use permit. But that was 20 years ago. I thought about a loft, but the extra $$ made me think it was better to build bigger, going up and down stairs gets old.
 
Whatever you build, make sure to bat-proof the entire building when you build it... A bat can go through a hole the size of a dime... .. foam sealer strips can be used on the steel roofing and sidewalls..
 
If you live in snow country I wouldn't put that access door on the side. I'd put it on the end. Over in the corner but on the same end as the overhead door. Might be well to have an escape door on the opposite end in case of fire. Make the overhead door wide enough and high enough to accomodate any piece of equipment you think you might ever want to put in there. I put up a new machine shed last year. Sixteen foot high end doors. Guess why? New combines with hopper extenders are 14'9" high. Come up with a parking plan for the equipment you plan to put in there. Nice to be able to pull something out without moving fourteen other pieces of equipment to get to it. Old adage. " Figure the amount of space you're going to need and then double it." Good advice.
 
In addition to what I said below. Have you given any consideration to ventilation? Without it, your stuff will turn to rust. Unless you live in west Texas or Arizona, provide some kind of ventilation. In my case, I went with a continuously vented ridge with vented soffets (two foot roof overhangs). I can pull a disc or chisel plow in out of the field in November and the disc blades and chisel plow shanks and points will be as shiny the following May as the day I pulled them in out of the field. Don't forget bird/bat mesh over the vent openings.
 
Yup, I'd given consideration to most of those things. Ventilation, floor, etc. I'm in South Western Ontario, not the US. We do get our fair share of snow, but not as bad as some areas of Ontario and Michigan. And the way the shed will be positioned the access door will be on the side away from the prevailing winds and blocked by the house. And I don't have to worry about making equipment doors overly large, the shed will just be a storage space for the antique tractors and parts.

I looked at those kits at Rona and the Home Hardware Building Centre, but they seem awfully pricey to me, I can build a lot more shed for the price they are asking for a 20X30 kit. In my area all the building centres are tailored to the retirees and yuppies so they don't have many kits over that size.
 
Thanks for those links guys! I finally got a chance to look at them, a lot of good information and plans/layouts there.
 
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