Ford Brush Hog

I have a Ford Brush Hog Series 908, Component 22-I94, Serial #WC 02502 I purchased last year to use with my 1948 8N. I works great and the tractor handles it fine in 2nd gear. The problem I am having is when cutting a field it leaves the grass on the left 1/3 of the row high and I have to go back and re-cut it. The cutter is sitting level, blades are sharp. Is this commen for brush hogs? If this is not the right form would you plaese direct me to where it should be posted.

Thanks.

I would experiment with the adjustable link on the right side of the 3 point. It sounds like even if the brush hog looks level, it is higher on the left side, so try raising the right side a bit until you are satisfied with how it is working.

I use a Ford 939 brush hog with my 641D. It works pretty well, although in really dense grass I have to use 1st gear. I have found that the brush hog will take care of small trees up to about 2 or 3 inch diameter, but don't do that often, as it is pretty loud and is probably hard on the old machine.

I have found that my brush hog works the best when the top link is adjusted to have the front of the brush hog several inches higher than the back end, and the tail wheel adjusted to hold the rear of the brush hog about an inch off the surface.

Hope you have an overrunning coupler (ORC). I didn't when I first got my brush hog and managed to scare myself a bunch when the tractor just plain WOULDN'T STOP when I wanted it to! The ORC takes care of that problem, and my brush hog blade will continue to rotate for half a minute if I shut off the engine or put in the clutch. Quite a flywheel effect that you don't want transmitted back to your drive wheels.

Good luck with your brush hog and tractor. Be careful, anything run by PTO can be really dangerous and a brush hog can throw rocks and other heavy objects some distance if it hits them.

I have cut alot with a 6 foot king kutter and it would cut the same way, I now cut with a landpride 8 foot with 2 sets of blades, cuts excellent

I never thought about adjusting the top link. I keep it almost all the way in (shortest legenth)and the front of the cutter is lower than the rear of the cutter. Yes, I need a override for the pto. That explains why the brakes don't work when I am cutting and are fine with other attachments. I will get one ASAP! Thanks for your help. I will update in a few weeks after I cut again.

It is best to run front lower than rear . that way only cut once not twice. i/e less HP requried.

As with all mowers the fron needs to be lower that the rear you mite need to lower the tail wheel

Level side to side with the level box so the lift arms are level, deck is level side to side, set the tail wheel and top link so the rear of the cutter is 1/2"-3/4" higher than the front. Sharp blades, that have not been bent or hammered by rocks etc., a properly adjusted mower, correct rpm's, HP will provide the best results. Don't lug the tractor when cutting, use a gear that is a good fit for what you are mowing, you can also reduce the width of what you are cutting by staying over more, though I like a lower gear, full width and keeping the rpm's where they should be, frequently cut areas, are much easier and you can run a higher gear or 2.

Even then, when you are mowing, depending on which way you cut the field, clockwise, counterclockwise, one tire will flatten uncut grass, weeds etc, seem to notice it in taller grasses more, often times it takes a pass in the opposite direction, to finish the cut, though sometimes it's just too low, better to leave it until the next time. Grasses that have been regularly cut, though the tire still tracks in uncut areas, don't seem to be as noticeable. I run a 6'-0" behind a Ford 850, so it's about as wide as the rear end, always knocks down and bends over things like golden rod and tall grasses, leaving a tire width + or - that is not cut. Seems to be the nature of a rotary cutter mounted on a 3 pt hitch.

Over running clutch is good thing to have, don't have one on mine, so just I set the mower down and let the stump jumper pan rub, seems to stop things, blades don't dig into the dirt and tractor does not creep forward so much, safer to have the ORC though I work around it, that one time you need it, you know how that goes.