problem with my 48A

About a month ago, my steady eddie 48A started running bad - sputtering, backfiring, etc. Checked the plugs and they were badly fouled.

Put new plugs in, but in a week, the problem returned. Cleaned the plugs and put them back in, minor improvement.

Started running worse & worse. James checked the spark and it was getting good spark from the magneto. James & I finally decided to have the carb rebuilt.

Sent the carb to K&K. Got it back last weekend and James put the carb back on. Not a lot of improvement.

Now the tractor will not hold rpms. - meaning it acts like you are working the throttle back and forth. It will run ok for a minute or two, then starts dropping in rpms until it nearly stalls, then it backfires once or twice, then starts running ok again for a minute or two, then the whole process repeats.

James has worked with the carb settings (load, etc) and it doesn"t seem to help. Had the magneto reworked a couple of years ago.

Any ideas?

Could be a timing issue which I don't know enough about to advise on. I had a 46 A and I'm trying to remember if it had coil which could be bad. Don't guess it does with magneto? I had to replace the flywheel which developed cracks but I don't remember it running bad, just knocking.

KEH

Could be one of the prior owners a smoker? :>) :>)

Allan

Prior owner was my dad. Yes, he smoked and it killed him. He died at 69 and never got to see his grandkids grow up.

Neither James or I smoke and we both detest the odor.

Was just jokin' with ya Nancy; sure didn't mean to hit a raw nerve.

Allan

Take one wire off the spark plug and hold on to it while the old man bumps it over with the starter. you should be able to tell if the Mag is good.

Check the plug wires if you're runing TVRS wires with a mag forget it. The plug wires with a mag need to be the old fashion wire core not carbon.

I had that problem with many tractors and seen it on small two cylinder engines and other tractors at shows.

Put some octane boost in your gas and that will most likely take care of it if you already have the correct plug wires. It's a simple fix actually.

I think it is a governor problem. Disconnect the rod from the gov to the carb and start it. Then see how it runs by you manually doing what the gov usually does. I have a feeling you are going to find it runs fine with you controlling the butterfly valve. I do not know if a thrown gov weight would cause this problem, the only throw weight I have had to deal with was on a 720 diesel and thats a horse of another color.
Let us know what you find out tho.

With the engine COLD, open the carburetor bowl drain (be SAFE, bla, bla, bla) and see if there is a continuous steady flow of gasoline even after the initial rapid flow of gas as the bowl drains. If not, you have a fuel restriction somewhere between the tank and the carburetor.

Do the symptoms happen immediately on start up when the engine is cold? Do they change as it warms up? Does it smooth out under load? Does it idle smoothly?
First, I would check for fuel flow as suggested.
Second, Disconnect the carb from the governor and hold the carb butterfly steady--does the engine smooth out? If so, there is a mechanical problem in the governor.
Third, May want to check for a sticking valve. If it's not too bad it may clear up with an application of Berrymans b-12 to the valve stem.
At this point it is probably a process of elimination. May want to try a different mag. or at least clean the points and replace the condenser. May want to try this first or second rather than last.
Keep us posted.
Paul

First things first: Getting spark is a sign of optimism for ignition, not success. The points in the mag are just like points on a distributor. A maintenance item. They are gapped at .013" when on the tip of the mag cam lobe. The shaft must also be rock steady in its bearings, any wobble, and it will have both very bad timing, and intermittent spark. The description you give is indicative of this simple fix. Best of luck, JimN

Yeah, I know. You didn't have any idea and I am not upset with you at all.

My dad grew up in the generation that smoked. He smoked Camel unfiltered and it killed him.

Besides my dad, he was my best friend. Sure wish he was still around. I think he'd be real pleased with how his tractor is being used.

This is a DEERE A, not a Binder A, correct?

When was the last time the valves were ground you only have two cycl and the valves are that much more important. Your problem is not uncommon with your tractor as i can remember when they were new and got heavy use grinding the valves was not uncommon. The 51 Bs were bad for that,

Awful small cup size for the diameter!!Left side or right??

Check your condenser, put a new one on, see if that helps. I carry an extra in my model A Ford. Bad ones cause crazy problems, just like a bad ground.

<a href="http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa5/jameslloydhowell/?action=view&current=Willrogers.jpg" target="_blank"> </a> Will Rogers once said <big>[b:654c4848f0]"Everything is funny, as long as it"s happening to somebody else."[/b:654c4848f0]</big>

As a new guest on the Tractor Talk forum, you might introduce yourself and let us know about your interests that relate to tractors.

On this Tractor Talk forum, you will find folks with a wealth of experience and knowledge that are more than happy to share with you.

This forum, along with the other YT forums, allows you to learn what you need and share what you know.

Nancy's original post above is in reference to her John Deere 1948 model A tractor.

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Considering the problem she described, we don't think this problem is being caused by the oil cup on the air intake.

If you are not familiar with John Deere tractor oil cups, they do vary in diameter depending on the model.

Right off hand I don't know the diameter of the oil cup on our model A tractors.

The oil cups on our A's, B's, M's, and 70's are located on the left (flywheel) side of the tractor.

The photo below of "Uncle Earl" our 1939 John Deere model B tractor shows the air stack with oil cup located on the left side.

<a href="http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa5/jameslloydhowell/John%20Deere%20Equipment/Uncle%20Earl/?action=view&current=IMG_1655.jpg" target="_blank"></a>

Hope this answers your questions concerning Nancy's 1948 John Deere model A tractor.

nancy, i think your best bet would be to park it and stop over and borrow one of my red ones!!!!!
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It is From the new above info, but it would make little difference would it? Jim

POSSIBLY the point gap specs would differ.

AWW Shuxx we were hoping you would would post the IDIOT out standing in his field, for the class. you need some new material.

Yes, until the muffler rusted off, then they did not burn valves...!!

Mine has not had a muffler on it since 1955 and has not burned a valve since then...!!

Just slip a pipe over the stub and it is good-to-go..!!

Ron..

Everyones covered this well. Have you noticed any bearing noise. Had a 51 A that the bearing on the end of the gov went bad on. Ran perfect one day and the next started fouling plugs, backfiring, and idling up and down. Did all the stuff you did, no change. Started listening around the gov housing, thats when I heard alittle too much noise. Pulled the cover off and the bearing fell apart. Fixed it and ran perfect again.

I can t remember exactly how it all went, but the gov is timed and the cover gaskets are the shims for the bearings..

What does the exhaust look like when it is running? Black smoke(flooding)? Blue smoke(oil consumption)? White smoke(antifreeze)? No smoke(A-OK)? Sounds like it is either starving for fuel or it is flooding out. With the fouling plugs, it seems like it might be flooding. Have you checked the air cleaner for blockage? Around here we have a heck of a time with mud daubers building nests and restricting or blocking the air. Easy way would be to disconnect the air cleaner from the carb and see how it runs. Might also see if you are getting a good flow of fuel to the carb. Turn on the gas and open the bowl drain on the carb. You should get a steady pencil wide stream of gas. If not, you have a blockage somewhere up the line. Also, even if you had the carb rebuilt by a good rebuilder, sometimes the passages in the carb will not get cleaned out well, causing problems. You can't just soak out a cast iron carb and expect it to be clean. You have to run the proper size drill bit down each and every one and be extra sure they are clean and free of dirt and rust.