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What type and brand of motor oil in your truck?

B

Brad in WI

Member
What brand and type of motor oil do you run in your truck? I have a 6.0 gas engine that will run most days and is used as a daily driver for now. This truck also gets used to pull tractors and possibly wagons so I need a good oil that will not break down. I have heard good things about synthetic but also have heard horror stories about it also. Is there any benefits to either synthetic or conventional oil? Also what brand would hold up the best to fill my needs? I am planning on using the manufacturers recommendation of 5W30.
 
ABOUT ANY MAJOR BRAND NAME OIL IS FINE,, SYNTHETIC IF ITS A PRETTY NEW ENGINE, IVE SEEN OLDER ENGINES LEAK A LITTLE USEING SYNTHETIC,BUT ITS THE BEST OIL YOU CAN BUY ,ESPECIALLY IN COLD WEATHER OR IF SHE OVERHEATS ON YOU. NO HORROR STORIES OTHER THAN THAT.MY NEW TRUCK GETS THE MOBIL 1 FOR 7 YEARS NOW...LUCAS
 
I've used penzoil for the last few years. I've got and had 4 fords that have had 289K, 223K, 181K and 246K on gas engines. None of them had ever had any internal engine work and were still running well. I still have a 95 F150 with 246K on it. I think about any major brand oil will be fine if it is changed regularly. I change mine at 3000 miles.
 
I can tell you this Brad, A friend of mine use to race cars all around the country. He used Mobil-1 in his race car. Because of that, I've used Mobil-1 in the last three trucks I've owned. I bought a 2008 GMC 6.0 last year. I switched to Mobil-1 at the first oil change. Never had any problems useing synthetic oil. The engine turns over easyer in the winter. Neither the starter, or anything else has to work as hard in colder wheather. I pull a trailer daily, up and down hills. The truck works for a living. And that's where the synthetic oils shine, is in extreme conditions. I stick with Mobil-1 because of it being more readily available. They claim Amsoil is a little better. And Royal Purple a little better yet. For the average person who uses the pick-up mostly as a second vehicle, I'd stay with regular motor oil. It's a lot cheaper. I changed my oil today. Six quarts of mobil-1, and a mobil-1 oil filter $59.36. That's with me doing the work.
 
15W-40 Torq-Gard Plus 50 in everything. 5000 miles on trucks & cars and every 150 Hours on tractors. I even use in girlfriends Chrysler 300C
 
I use Advance Auto Parts 5W30 in the Dodge.

All oil must meet federal standards, so I doubt it matters what you use provided you change it at regularly scheduled intervals.
 
Quaker State 10w-30. Used Quaker State 10w-40 in my JD H for 25 years, regular oil & filter changes but .0002" wear on the crank bearing journals, less than .001" wear on cylinder walls, almost no wear on engine bearings. This is on a tractor that was USED, not shown!! Can't get any better than that. There's many good oils out there, but I KNOW this one works. I use Quaker State in everything, changing viscosity per the makers manual.
Paul
 
I run oil from Lubrication Engineers. Was turned on to their products by a customer that has run their products for nearly 40 years in his farm equuipment as well as in his heavy equipment without ever having a lubrication related failure.

We rebuilt a 3306 CAT engine for him a few years back that had a hole worn in the liner due to electrolosis in the water jacket. Since it"s last rebuild the engnine had been in service nearly day, 8 to 10 hours plus a day, for 12 years plus in an excavator digging and loading pit gravel. There was absolutely no wear on either the rod or the main bearings. Dad worked at the CAT dealership in "specilization" at one time building their engines and said he had never seen an engine with that many hours and absolutely no bearing wear. It made enough difference in the friction in the Detroit in my service truck that I can get can "cold starts" out of it, without plugging it in, nearly ten degrees colder than I could with Rotella.

Finally convince another customer to try their other products, gearcase oils, greases, etc. The gearbox oils exteneded the service life of a set of bearings that had been problematic before as well as allowed them to cut their greasing intervals in half and then some on another piece of equipment.
Their not "cheap" outright but for what you get and the life expectancy of the products the extra life more than makes up for the "extra" price. Their web site is linked below, check them out. And NO, I"m not a dealer or distributor, and don"t get kickbacks for refferals.....
Lubrication Engineers
 
What ever my dealer puts in at 3000 mi intervals.
I'll fix or maintain or split or paint or overhaul a tractor but rarely even check the oil on my Chevy. Dunno why. That's just what I do.
 
Castroil in My Subaru 230,000 miles. Nothing repaired inside engine and still going good.

Dello 400 in the wifes Town Car. 243,000 still going fine. However is does use some oil. But then it is a Ford :)
 
My old '98 Chevy 1500 had 165,000 on it when I sold it 7 months ago. I bought it new and used mobil drive clean 5000 5w30. Changed the oil every 3500 miles. When I sold it, it never smoked and only used 3/4 of a quart between changes. Made a believer out of me.
 
i run one oil and one oil only Fleet Farm 15-40 Diesel oil in every motor i have from a 3.5 hp Briggs to a 450hp Cummings.run it year around and I'm also from WI and every thing starts just fine at -20. i see no reason to have 10 different kinds of oil i change at 3000 miles or 100 hrs.
 
Amsoil. Why not with oil change intervals of 17/35K city/hwy on the gas rated oil and 12.5/25K on the diesel rated oil. Guaranteed against breakdown even at those miles and cheaper than traditional intervals even with the higher initial costs. Check the website. Most people are too worried to go those kinda miles but I have and haven't had any problems yet.
 
Well, the old girl gets the finest drain oil I can get given to me. Change oil, who's ever heard of something foolish like that. the old stuff gums up real good and stops the leaks.
 
The one thing that I didn't see mentioned yet, was that synthetics can leak more than a conventional oil.

If your truck marks it's teritory now, it'll probably start to leak a little more. I'm thinking about switching my VW to synthetics, but it does have a small leak at the valve cover right now. The engine will need a new timeing belt in the next year or so, so I will probably address the leak then.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
First of all, what horror stories have you heard about synthetics? I have used synthetics in every motor Ive had since 1987. Never once had a problem or a leak. Use it in my 51 Farmall M, 41 Farmall A, three sears lawnmowers, my town car and my jeep. I use Castrol Syntec 5-50 in the tractors, 5-40 in the cars and 5-30 in the mowers. Previously also used it in my Kawasaki motorcycle. Never oce had I had a problem. Oh, I only change oil between 10-12000 miles. Both the jeep and town car need a quart about 6-7000 miles. Henry
 
Most of the oil I use is from Case IH. Not because I'm a red fan, but because I know it"s good stuff. Same for any name brand farm equipment dealer. Yes, I know it costs more, but so does an overhaul.

Name brand oils from the store might be good, but then again they might not. Being uneducated in how to spot the good from the bad, I've always had a fear that the name brand the store carries might be a cheaper version.

Most of the vehicles I have owned have run 200,000 - 3000,000 miles without major engine work, running on plain old regular oil from a reputable dealer. When I did an in-frame on the 1086 at 10,000 hours the crank still measured to the factory specs and the cam was 1/2 gone. She has 15000 hours now and uses one quart per hundred hours and the oil pressure drops very little when she"s hot. Jim
 
As you can see from all these people listing all these different types of oils and having no problems, most all the oils these days are good, much better than oil of years ago. Old tractors are awfully forgiving, just keep some in. Newer vehicles just keep it clean.

My '06 Chevy 3/4 ton 4.8 litre V8 is at 325,000 miles now. I use regular, (non-synthetic), Valvoline 5-30 and Wix filters. Uses no oil between changes.

I use Rotella 10-40 in my Farmall H. As I understand it, it has zinc in it which is good for the cam and flat lifters. I put a little Lucas in too, cause I love my tractor.
 
My 95 F-150 ran Pennzoil. I retired it when the tranny went at 247K miles. Motor still running strong and not using any oil. My wife's old car, a 96 Dodge Stratus ran 226K miles on Pennzoil. My 90 Ranger has 185K miles on Pennzoil. I've run mostly Pennzoil for the last 30 years with few problems, none of them oil related, except when my daughter ran her Datsun pickup dry, it started using a bit of oil. I switched to Mobil 1 on my wife's 300M Chrysler because I didn't want to change oil so often. My new Scion Xb and my 06 F-150 are running Pennzoil synthetic, again because I am going longer between changes. None of those three have more than 150K, so I can't judge longevity yet.
 
I use, now, Exxon Mobil 15w40, non sythetic, Dello 400. I've used Quaker State, Shell Rotella, etc. For several years I used Exxon XD3. When Exxon and Mobil mergered I had to switch to something.

As to what to use, I go with my petroleum jobbers recommendation as to the best oil at the best price among the name brand oils. I may be using Connaco if the price keeps dropping relevant to the others. It was down to 9.25 a gallon by the case.
 
As long as you get the correct weight for the conditions and temperatures, JUST GUESS THE BRAND.

Blindfold yourself in Wal-Mart and just pick something.

There is NO NEED to associate ROCKET SCIENCE to modern oils, like many on this forum try to do.
 
I used to think I had to use the exact same oil for the life of the vehicle.

The place that I worked for 34 years took bids on the oil for the fleet vehicles, and they never seemed to get the same brand twice.

The fleet trucks seemed to do as well as my personal vehicle.

I don't worry about brands anymore, but I do follow the manuf's recommendations on viscosity.

Paul
 
rotella 15-40 and wix filters in everything i own, yes there is a difference, cut that fram open and see what it has inside, you'll never buy another one
 
A guy I knew went for a job interview at a factory that molded oil bottles, and filled them. He said that he saw quite a few big brands, as well as some house brands, being filled from what appeared to be the same tanks..
 
Chevron Dello 400 15/40 proof is in the puddin!
01 F-350, 7.3 DSL 155K
97 F-150, 4.6 gas 335K
sold an old 86 Chevy Sub., 350 CID gas, 250K
Later,
John A.
 
As long as it is from a major brand oil company and the correct weight for the machine. Just don't let a snake oil salesman tell you, you need a additive to make it better. It breaks down the additive thats already in the oil. Then you got crap for oil.
 
Brad

I have always used Quaker State 10W30 oil in all my vehicles from the time I get them. I am currently driving a 1999 F150 V6 that has 203,000 miles on it and does not burn any oil (it does have a small leak though). I would not hesitate to get in her go all the way to the east coast and back if I needed to. My Dad always used Quaker State oil in all his vehicles and farming equipment so I guess you would say it is tried in tested in our family pretty well. Will not change to any other brand myself. I might add that I do not use any additives in any of my vehicles.
 
Brad

I have always used Quaker State 10W30 oil in all my vehicles from the time I get them. I am currently driving a 1999 F150 V6 that has 203,000 miles on it and does not burn any oil (it does have a small leak though). I would not hesitate to get in her go all the way to the east coast and back if I needed to. My Dad always used Quaker State oil in all his vehicles and farming equipment so I guess you would say it is tried in tested in our family pretty well. Will not change to any other brand myself. I might add that I do not use any additives in any of my vehicles.
 
I only use synthethic oil. Small engines to big engines. Currently using Castrol Edge, and AMSoil and Royal Purple. Use it in crankcase, transmissions, grease fittings, hydraulic tanks,trasfer case, differentials - anything and everything. It lasts longer and significantly reduces friction. For example if you put Royal Purple synthetic oil in a small block Chevy you will pick up 8 to 12 hp and ft lbs torque. That is a lot without changin a thing. No simple bolt on could add that kind of power for that price. Think about that huge reduction in friction - 8-12 hp/ft lbs - wow! AMS transmission fluid lowers temp in trans and that means longer life. So I will run the synthetic engine oil for 10k miles about 3 times as long as convential oil so the cost is about the same and I get a 2% plus increase in gas milage (which puts me in the black without even considering much improved friction protection and longer engine life and important to me, a lot less time changing oil). To me it is a no brainer. Pays for itself and then some. Facts are facts.
 
In frigid Wisconsin? A real synthetic made by Mobil 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple or Lubrication Engineers. Not "treated" mineral oil that the other manufactures call synthetic oil.
Some of these horror stories about synthetic arise from brand loyalty,old wives tales, stubbornness, ignorance and suspicion. Some based in fact as every tom dick and harry jobber shop in the 1970's marketed the new idea of synthetic oil. And some of those oils were worse than terrible.
There some people who still search for and use non detergent oil in engines and hydraulics. Can't imagine why, it's 2009 not 1939. Oil has changed.
Put 5W30 Amsoil or Mobil 1 in there with a filter that isn't a Fram. And change once a year.
The engine will start easier in cold weather and have oil pumped to bearings sooner. Under high heat towing conditions the synthetic will still be lubing were mineral oil is breaking down.
 
I've been using Northland (Northland is the factory fill for John Deere's Waterloo Ia built tractors and engines) oil in my 98 Silverado. I also use BG Product's MOA. The BG rep says the MOA is nothing more than just more of the additives found in all quality motor oils. No secret "snake oil" ingredients. One of my co-workers races 4 cycle go carts and he runs straight MOA in the crankcase. The engine runs cooler and will turn 200 rpms faster than running motor oil. The MOA has the zinc needed for flat tappet cams. I have MOA in all of my engines.
 
Whatever I have around as oil in the pan is better than no oil in the pan...
Generally I use what is recomended (viscosity). Brand doesn't matter.
Might be Esso, Ultramar, Walmart, Canadian Tire, PetroCanada, Irving, NewHolland. Whatever...
It seems to be a lack of oil or the wrong grade of oil that causes most problems, not the brand of the oil or whether it's synthetic or not.

Rod
 
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