smoking 2n

installed new carb trying to eliminate a recent problem of fouling plugs,( plugs were black carbon, old carb was very rusted inside ) now it's black smoke and backfiring,hardly any power, adjusted idle screw and power screw as recommeded from this site, is it possible something internal in the new cab that should be adjusted, or do I have a burnt value? thanks for the help, Robert

Black smoke says it is running way to rich. I would check to make sure the air cleaner is not clogged and fill like it should be with oil. Then see if you can screw the main jet all the way in and have it still run. If you can do that then you have a possible bad new carb which does happen. As for the old carb it is not often that they can not be rebuilt and they where/are better then the new replacement carbs made in the country of not often right

I already changed the oil,filter, cleaned the air filter and used fresh oil in the bottom of oil bath, will try as suggested . Thank for the reply, Robert

Another thing that maybe wrong is the float not set as it should be or a float that is sticking

if you say its backfiring, do a compression check on it and then you know exactly what what you have and work from there. carbs dont make it backfire. something wrong in the valve train.

A carb set way to rich or way to lean will in fact make one back fire

What kind of shape is the ignition system in? Like Old says, black smoke indicates too much fuel. A rich fuel mixture will not make it back fire. Bad points and condenser, a weak coil, poor plug wires all can cause it to back fire.

Given the age, condition and the tractor's limited ability to do anything even when in 100% condition. It maybe time to consider another machine.

i would lean to a leaking or chipped/broken valve or valve seat. run a compression test and a vacuum test. it should give an indication of what is wrong.

Look at your plugs again. If the fouling is light fluffy black carbon 'dust' your mixture is far too rich, which is indicated by your black smoke.

"as recommended from this site" can mean anything. The information may be worth exactly what you paid for it.

The engine should be at normal operating temperature and you lean it out until it just runs smooth at idle and has the proper setting for the power side. The operator's manual will tell you how to do it and the final settings may be way off from any values supplied - as these are simply ball-park settings to get the engine running.

Normally you adjust the main jet system for good running (above idle speed) and then adjust the slow running setting, so the engine will keep running smoothly at idle, and then re-adjust the power setting as necessary, then back to the idle setting, repeating the cycle until both need no further adjustment.

If a satisfactory adjustment cannot be found, then maybe the carb is, in this case, leaking by the float control valve, or the float level is set too high, or the main jet is the wrong size or the wrong venturi is fitted. Leaking past the float valve should be apparent by the carb flooding, when stood with the engine off.

If plug fouling was oil related (usually associated with some blue smoke) a new carb will not make things any better.

If it had a burned or chipped valve it would affect how it ran (back-firing) but these things do not usually happen at the same time as changing the carb. You know how it ran before - it should not run any worse than that, with the new carb.

I am wondering why a new carb was fitted. Rust is easily cleaned from a carb and would normally result in jet blockage rather than too-rich fouling. Rust getting from the tank into the float valve could cause your type of problem, if that is really the problem.

Regards, RAB

post your compression, as i have a hard time swallowing the carb.

You just can"t let a post about Ns pass without taking a swipe at them can you.
Do you spit on them when you see them at the shows too?
Talk about a momomaniacal hatred...

You just can"t let a post about Ns pass without taking a swipe at them can you.
Do you spit on them when you see them at the shows too?
Talk about a momomaniacal hatred...

I've rarely seen any machine be so over rated.With so many rank amateurs risking life and limb. Attempting to make a 70 year old design operate modern equipment.

I will grant you your right to an inveterate hatred for them. We all have our likes and dislikes.
My question is: What good does it do anyone for you to be putting them down all the time?

I'm saying that people get into trouble as they expect too much from them. Too many times somebody goes out and purchases a "tractor". Not knowing there even is such a thing as live pto, live hydraulics, real brakes, rops,manual steering, diff lock, creeper gears etc.
Most of the time the "lowest price" chooses the tractor, not what's good value for the $$$.
If you have to have a Ford, find at least a 800 series with some usable features.
This fellow with the sputtering 2N is in the price of his tractor and at least a partial overhaul. He could take the repair $$$ and cash from selling the 2N. And almost be into an 800 series, Massey 35/135 etc.

The difference between a cheap little N and a Hundred series Ford is a thousand bucks. Big money to some - especially if they just want to do a little plowing discing or mowing with the thing.
Why do you pick on the Ns? Do you flame the Allis Bs or JD Bs or the old Masseys or Cases or Cockshutts with no hydraulics or lift of any sort? Do you kick the Farmall Hs too? Or the JD Hs for that matter? Most of them likewise had no lpto or ps or "modern" convienences? Not those built in '39 anyway
What's the deal with the Ns with you? That you can't pass up a post about one without kicking sand in the owners eyes?

Most people seem to understand how limited the Allis Bs or JD Bs or the old Masseys or Cases or Cockshutts with no hydraulics or lift of any sort? The Farmall Hs too or the JD H's are.
Too many people, perhaps due to their appearance. Seem to mistake the N series for something more capable.
Most of the small tractors of that era were best used as a direct substitute for a team of horses. And were connected to horse drawn equipment with shortened hitches.
Doesn't matter what brand it is. Going out there to bushhog without live pto, without an over running clutch and without live hydraulics. Manual steering that kicks back with marginal brakes at best.Is just looking for trouble.
If somebody is pushing the $$$ limits that close to the edge that the difference between an N series and a 800/later series/Massey 35 etc. Is going to finish them off.
They are akin to being in water over their chins. One little slip and they drown. Better to stay back in the waist to chest deep water at most. "Getting in over your head".
Those old time machines have their historical value. And have some use in a few applications today. The mistake is people who should or don't know any better. In trying to make these limited old machines do something they can't.

So you are saying that none of the older tractors are worth a darn for plowing, discing, mowing, raking, hauling wood, pushing snow, etc. because they don't have all the bells and whistles like lpto, ps and other refinements?
Or is it just the Ns that aren't capable of doing any useful work?

For drawbar work with horse sized equipment they old tractors can do ok. Too many operators killed with rollovers.Hooking a load to the three point on those 2N/9N without a drawbar.
Trying to use modern equipment such as loaders, snowblowers and bush hogs is mickey mouse at best on a N series. Being a hazard to life and limb all too often.