It is about time to have the transmisson serviced on my 05 F150. I have a hard time laying on my back anymore doing this. So I thought I would call the ford dealer where I purchased my ford. They told me 150.00 I thought this was a little high. They don't even remove the pan. They do a flush. I guess by hooking into the coolant lines. I thought the purpose was to change the filter, and look for metal in the pan. Is this how it is done anymore? Looks like I will be laying on my back soon. Stan
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landlord7012
Member
Maybe they back-flush it? Those filters aren't much more than screens anyway and if the would filter at their machine they would be able to analyze for metal, etc.
just my thoughts,
Bill
just my thoughts,
Bill
you are right, bob--years ago i recalled ford trans with screens-others had fiber/paper elements-no bypass,no trash could get thru---even better in todays world--myself, i would rather change filter & what fluid i can--I can't see trans flush pushing the junk away from filter,[thru valve body, pump etc, captured, plus cleaning convertor,etc--all this thru 3/8 cooling lines--it looks to me that it works perfect if you maybe really didn't need it to begin with---only my thoughts--
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Steven f/AZ
Well-known Member
In my opinion, the so-called "transmission service" is the biggest ripoff in the auto repair business. Takes 10 minutes to hook up the lines and flush someone else's dirty fluid through your trans, what a waste.
I pull the pan every 20k and change the filter, refill with about 4 quarts of fresh fluid on my Dodge minivan. I take the filter apart to see what's in it, too. So far just normal shavings/friction materials. The filter is a paper or cloth that seems to filter pretty fine particles. Also have to have the pan off to clean the magnet!
On the Honda, I can't change the filter (stupid design) so I drain about two quarts every other oil change (about 10k) and re-fill with fresh. Has a magnet on the drain plug that always seems to be full of shavings. Had the dealer flush it at 60k only to follow manual recommendation to protect my warranty.
Get on your back, get dirty, and pull the pan. New filter, clean the magnet - if no magnet, a perfect time to put one in.
I pull the pan every 20k and change the filter, refill with about 4 quarts of fresh fluid on my Dodge minivan. I take the filter apart to see what's in it, too. So far just normal shavings/friction materials. The filter is a paper or cloth that seems to filter pretty fine particles. Also have to have the pan off to clean the magnet!
On the Honda, I can't change the filter (stupid design) so I drain about two quarts every other oil change (about 10k) and re-fill with fresh. Has a magnet on the drain plug that always seems to be full of shavings. Had the dealer flush it at 60k only to follow manual recommendation to protect my warranty.
Get on your back, get dirty, and pull the pan. New filter, clean the magnet - if no magnet, a perfect time to put one in.
landlord7012
Member
correct - last one I saw was from a turbo 350 in a '69 Blazer I had. The whole experience taught me I had no business with my fingers on an automatic trans 
I do wish someone would comment on my back-flush theory (in a non-judgemental way please).
Good knowledge,
Bill
I do wish someone would comment on my back-flush theory (in a non-judgemental way please).Good knowledge,
Bill
Brian Jasper co. Ia
Well-known Member
As a trans tech at a GM dealer, I can say the last GM filter I saw the inside of was on a 350. It was a paper type. The last Ford filter I saw was on an A4LD which was a fine brass screen.
On GM filters, they are designed large enough that if they had all of the clutch material in them, they still would not plug. Now they are enclosed in plastic and I've never cut one open.
Take your pan off if you want. Not going to hurt anything. A flush is better since you get much more of the old fluid out. Pulling the pan gets at most 25-30%. A flush will get 90%+ of the old fluid out. When ATF turns brown (oxidizes) from heat it's lubricating properties are reduced. It also attacks the seals and gaskets.
Those who believe having a trans fluid flush is a rip off are misinformed.
On GM filters, they are designed large enough that if they had all of the clutch material in them, they still would not plug. Now they are enclosed in plastic and I've never cut one open.
Take your pan off if you want. Not going to hurt anything. A flush is better since you get much more of the old fluid out. Pulling the pan gets at most 25-30%. A flush will get 90%+ of the old fluid out. When ATF turns brown (oxidizes) from heat it's lubricating properties are reduced. It also attacks the seals and gaskets.
Those who believe having a trans fluid flush is a rip off are misinformed.
Steven f/AZ
Well-known Member
I change my fluid before it gets burnt/discolored. And I have extra auxillary coolers and trans temp gauges installed so I don't cook the fluid.
If you want to flush, go this route:
1. Drop pan, change filter.
2. Re-fill trans
3. Take off the line going TO the trans cooler
4. Start engine, let two quarts run out, stop engine
5. re-fill trans pan
6. start engine, let two quarts run out, stop engine
7. Repeat until fluid comes out clean or you run through about 110% of the trans capacity.
This should flush out 90% of the old fluid, without the outrageous charges.
If you want to flush, go this route:
1. Drop pan, change filter.
2. Re-fill trans
3. Take off the line going TO the trans cooler
4. Start engine, let two quarts run out, stop engine
5. re-fill trans pan
6. start engine, let two quarts run out, stop engine
7. Repeat until fluid comes out clean or you run through about 110% of the trans capacity.
This should flush out 90% of the old fluid, without the outrageous charges.
interesting.- i'm reading your post with an open mind, but does not most of the junk form in the pan & filter where it settles out? looks like this would be a first step even if you flushed afterwards--I guess there are differant machines for this,but i thought they mostly used the trans pump to remove old fluid,while adding new--how does it flush, with a chemical circulating thru system? i'm old school,& with valve bodys you needed a positive filter. differant on later stuff with solinoids etc,i suppose
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