place to get fencer parts?

I know there are some fence charger techs here. Could some one recommend a place to get the big SCRs and thermal fuses in the 100 mile zebra fence energizers. Zebra no longer sell parts, just boards.

If there are ANY numbers visible on the damaged parts, try calling Digi-Key in TRF, MN.

Or contact them through their website, digikey.com.

They will do their best to find replacements for your components IF you have some numbers for them to work with.

I spent about $85 to have Zereba replace a board in my 100 miler last winter.

I was all over that thing with a multimeter and component freeze spray. Nothing appeared burnt up, misshapen, and no cracks in the board. I had power coming in but that was it.

How do you test the individual parts to see if they are bad?

we repair 1000s of fencers a year and carry many out of date parts just call link_disallowed day ask for larry

(quoted from post at 14:47:25 05/27/09) we repair 1000s of fencers a year and carry many out of date parts just call link_disallowed day ask for larry

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Could you email me? I could use some help.

Thanks, Dave

[email protected]

I wish it was that easy.Most chargers are repaired by replacing the entire guts.Zareba chargers are repaired by replacing guts.Circuit boards are epoxyed to the output transformers.Parmak no longer supplies diagrams or individual parts.No more 5 or 10 buck repairs in my shop.75 bucks is common now.

hi bc
if fencer does not make a clicking sound than the big SCRs or thermal fuses may be bad. These parts cause 90% of the problems. many times they look ok. easiest way to check is to try new output and power boards into the mother board. If the output board is bad than all 3 SCRs should be replaced. Don't bother trying to check them. Even if one checks good, it won't be very reliable.
If fencer clicks but no output, the output transformer may be bad. Sometime the end of the burned off wire can be found and be reconnected.
If the fencer has laid down and been rained on, anything could be bad.

Thanks M. Mine had no clicking and no voltage much past the power input. Been a while since I had it open but what is the power flow in those for troubleshooting purposes? Input to scr to thermal fuse to output transformer or what? What causes the clicking to take place? Seems like there would be a big capacitor to do that. Also wonder if it is the output transformer that generates the juice, then could you use one with a higher output?

I have an old plug in charger out in the barn that doesn't work. Connections are kinda rusty. I may open it up and see what it looks like. Don't remember if it is a solid state one or one designed to burn weeds. Seems like they used to have some powerfull chargers.

One thing I've noticed about my Zareba low impedance 100 miler is that any weeds anywhere on the line will lower the voltage. It is rated at 14kv (14000v)and on a clear wire, it will max out my zareba digital voltage tester at 9.9kv. Anytime anything touches the wire, it reduces the voltage. Even lots of weeds and grass. It doesn't burn them very quick. I use mine around a brome pasture and at this time of year it grows tall enough to touch the bottom wire which can reduce it down to about 2kv unless we mow and spray for weeds under the fence line. The good thing (or maybe bad depending upon point of view) about the low impedance charger is that when something is touching the wire and reduces the voltage, it does it along the whole wire so I can just test it at the charger instead of walking the entire wire to see if it is shorted somewhere. Around the corral, it would max out at 9.9 kv. When I opened up part of the pasture for the horses last weekend, it dropped down to about 6kv but I know there was some brome touching it in some places that we didn't get mowed well.

voltage comes in though the thermal fuses,goes though a capacitor/resistor/diode voltage triple and charges the big capacitor to like 580 volts. The cd4011 counts the ripple in the charging current. when its gets up to the counts in one second, it fires the small SCR. The small SCR triggers one of the big SCRs. The big SCR then dumps the big capacitor voltage into the output transformer. the transformer puts the voltage spike out to the output terminal. The 2 other big SCRs are for lighting protection.

You can check for voltage on the big capacitor to check for good input circuit and capacitor. If the big SCR shorts, the thermal fuses with open.

Most of the old solid state fencers had a standard resistor/capacitor timer,diac and SCR output circuit.