Overheating issue 1952 Farmall C

I recently purchased a 1952 Farmall C which had been restored approximately 6 years ago and then driven once before being stored in a large dry business warehouse and never started since.The rad was empty (drained and fuel system drained as well) so I filled both up. After purchase I had a bit of trouble getting it started at first,I noticed the switch was left on so I cleaned the points a bit,there was fire,still no start,took the carb off checked the needle and float they were free.
I posted on this forum and Hal suggested cleaning the cap and rotor.I gave the distributer a good cleanup and filed the points again which proved to be burned.The previous owner must have left the switch on after an attempt to start the tractor.The battery was totally dead.
Another attempt with a charged battery,gas and antifreeze the C started and seemed to run well.I drove it a bit,it was ok.Yesterday however it was a bit warmer day here and I decided to run it around the field a few times to see if it continued to perform well.I was driving it around my field looking for any malfunction or bugs when sure enough one appeared. The first thing I noticed was the governor opening up running the engine faster than where I had it set on the control which was a slow pace. A couple minutes later as I was heading back to the house, all of a sudden it boiled over and antifreeze spilled down over the wiring harness and the engine stopped. It would not restart. I left it for a couple of hours when I came back tried it again.It started but stopped abruptly. I have since towed it back to my yard and now want to determine the cause.The governor may need lubricating,I will try this next,appreciate any ideas as to what I should be looking for here? Air lock? Cap problem? cooling system?

not sure if it has a thermostat but that would be my guess possible that the fan belt broke unnoticed the water pump should be working but it has sat for some time so a number of things could be stopped up. the next time you have it running and starts to heat up shut it down and feel the rad. near the top and then the bottom the see if it has a near even temp if it is cool at the bottom and hot at the top more than likely a flow issue.

C's never had a water pump or thermostat from factory. They use a thermosyphon system. Are you sure it was not over full? Sam

I would pull the radiator off then remove the lower collant housing. Now with hose and a nozzle spray water into the block to try and backflush that part of the block. There are four hles letting coolant down past the wet sleeves and one or more of those ports are probably blocked and not lettint the collant flow thru and into the radiator. You can use a maglite to see in there and use a stiff piece of wire you can get those holes open and flush out all the loose junk. I have overhaulled several of those engines in the last 10yrs since retiring and playing with my hobby tractors. Also have parted out several blocks and when the sleeves are pulled amazing how deep the crud will be in the bottom and plugging the holes. Using good pressure and compressed air you will be able to get the flow going thru the block like its supposed to go and that will be the end of your colling problems. You can also add a water pump at this time ifn ya want to the pump will make sure it runs cool.

If it was restored 6 years ago, there shouldn't be any blockage if the engine was rebuilt. If it was only run once & then parked, I would run it enough to warm it up & then retorque the head. You may now have a gasket leak.

It sounds like you may have filled the radiator to the top, you need to leave it down about 2 inches for expansion of the water. Try this and see what happens. If it still boils over then fill to top leave cap off run it hard and look for bubbles in radiator. Keep a can of water on hand to make sure radiator is full to top of filler tube. Look for a stream of bubbles coming up from the bottom.
Walt

Thank you,it may have been over full,I put a (50/50 mix )4 litre jug of antifreeze plus 50% water for a total of 8 litres.When I checked the rad,the fluid level was not above the core so I added about another litre of water.
Not knowing how much the rad holds ,I may have overfilled it.Thank you

Thank you guys for all your great suggestions, they should lead to the resolution of my problem.
Thanks Ron

C'S were known for running hot especially when it's 80 or so outside.They don't have a water pump,only siphon.A super C would be a better tractor,they have a pump and can be bought for the same price.

Did you mix the antifreeze and water before you put it in? If not, it will not circulate with the thermosyphon system.

Thanks Roy,that is a great point to know from another post it seems at this time a water pump could be added,can you shed any light on this possibility?

Thanks for your tip I poured the antifreeze in first (4 litres) then started the tractor briefly,not adding the water (4litres plus) until the next morning prior to starting and running the tractor.I now have syphoned some antifreeze off after determining the rad was overfull.So much to know here! The mixture now has a light blue color and appears mixed but perhaps not entirely.
Do these rads have pit cocks? I could not see one!

I don't think a pump can be added,it's part of the block,unless someone has an aftermarket pump,but i've never heard of one.The C was a good tractor and under normal use would run fine. I would first do like someone recomended and make sure the radiator is good,new ones don't cost that much and it's good insurance.Then check the timing,that can make it overheat.If it has a 50 year old radiator it could be partially plugged from just age.Also don't fill the radiator full,leave it down a couple inches.

If it's a '52, it is a SuperC.

Water pump can be added to a C. It bolts on in place of the lower inlet to the block. It does reauire a different belt obviously, and a different generator brace. The challenge to doing it is if you want a thermostat on the top end (recommended with a pump) the outlet from the head is didfferent between a C (open circuit thermosiphon) and Super C (designed for a stat).

Case IH has a water pump kit to put on C's Not too big a job, comes with new larger belt. I put one on my C and also on my A and they never overheat now.

No petcock on mine. It's a narrow front. It has a cast pipe plug drain coming out from an opening in the frame casting below the radiator .. I think it might be 1/2"

Have you thought about your statement "i dont think' can sure mess people up. There is sometimes more bad info that good if you dont know dont post. For your information a water pump can be installed as i have done it several times and you dont add a thermostat as the filler neck is too small for one and they work fine.

Thanks Roy great information!I am a greenhorn with mechanics but I have learned a lot from this site.

Thanks to everyone for sharing your knowledge and experience.

Ron

Thanks Scotty I followed up on your suggestion that my tractor is a 1952 Super C and your right!! My serial# falls in the range of a 1952 Super C

This may affect some of the answers others gave to my post

Thank you for pointing this out Scotty!
Ron

Sorry Guys ,the previous owner told me this tractor was a C ,but when I looked up the serial number is was clear it is not a C.

The serial number fits the 1952 year of a Super C,(Therefore this tractor with heating problems is a Super C)