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oil pan gasket fun

L

Lanse

Well-known Member
Well, as you know, my B's oil pan leaks. In the front. I guess i'll have to cut another gasket for it.

When i put in the current gasket i used plenty of formagasket on both sides of it. Still leaks.

I screwed something up allright. Is there a certian way to tighten the bolts or something else?? Any ideas here??
 
Does it have an oil slinger on the front of the crankshaft like the old F12-14's??

Sure it isn't the front seal on the crank??

Just some thoughts!!
 
not sure what an oil slinger is, but i dont think i had to replace one so probabally not.

Nope, not the front seal. Front seal is well above the oil pan and doesnt leak by some miracle.
 
Make sure the pan is clean. Also make sure the pan isn't bent. I had one leaking like a sive and tore the whole tractor apart thinking it was a main seal. Turns out the pans edge had been bent a little bit and that was the cause of the leak. Also follow the directions on the gasket in a tube stuff. Sometimes you have to put a thin coat on both pieces, let it tack up and then stick them together.
 
that coult be something. That pan is off the first C so there probabally is something wrong with it.

I'll atleast try another pan. Thanks!!
 
Is the form a gasket the silicone stuff? If so if you tighten the nuts too tight it will squeeze the gasket out. This stuff is too slippery for a thick gasket. Use something not too slippery. I use the spray tack stuff, like copper coat. Spray some on both gasket and pan, wait a few minutes and it will hold the gasket to the pan. Don't over tighten the bolts, Stan
 
Or just stick something you know is straight (like a builders square) and look at it. The pan I was plaing with only had a little over a 1/16th dip. After banging it back up I was surprised - No leaks.

Good luck.
 

When you thread the bolts into the block are the threads exposed to oil from the crankcase ?

Meaning are the threaded holes open inside the motor above the pan rails.
I have seen this before and the oil run down the threads of the tight bolt and leaks.

If they are "check them all" you will have to seal the theads as well.
 
Lanse, an oil slinger is a large washer that is keyed the the crankshaft directly behind the front crank shaft seal. It's job is to keep as much oil away from the seal as possible to prevent leaks.
I can't say if a 125 engine has one or not. I've built enough 302 Fords to know they have one.
When you pull your pan off, look at the sealing surfaces, specifically the bolt holes. Sometimes folks get carried away and over tighten the bolts and it bends the pan and leaks. A small ball pein hammer and the edge of a bench works well to tap the edge flat again.
 
Lanse,

Take a straight edge from hole to hole on the oil pan and see if there is a gap between the straight edge and the oil pan between the holes. Some times where the bolt goes thru the pan it has a tendency to pull the pan up and cup the hole not letting the area between the holes pull up snug to the block.

John
 
Lanse, consider not using a gasket at all but an RTV rubber product, such as Silicone Form-a-Gasket instead. Many new cars don't use gaskets for most of the sealing surfaces, since the silicone works better and is cheaper.
 
Maybe check your bolts and see if they are loose.When you bolt up something big like an oil pan,it could get hung on a bolt somewhere and you think its tight,then as you tighten the rest of the bolts it can pop loose,and unless you go over your bolts again you can miss it.You work from the middle out on everything unless there is a diagram that tells you different.You also work the sides evenly.So you get first the middle bolt on each side,then the one next to it on both sides,and so on untill you get all of them tightened,then do it over again,to check your work.That is important to do every time because you will always find loose bolts.Just like the others said you can overtighten the bolts forcing the gasket out,bending the area around the bolt,and the pan even could be bent.Just check your bolts first and see if half of them are loose.
 
If you go with the silicone route make sure that you clean both mating surfaces thoroughly with something like lacquer thinner or gun wash to remove any oil or grease as the silicone will not adhere to that and your pan will continue to leak. Just snug the pan up till the silicone starts to squeeze out the sides and then let it sit overnight to allow the silicone to set up and then snug the bolts up without overtightening. Same thing applies if you are going to use some silicone with your old gasket. Make sure it is cleaned thoroughly to remove any oil before applying the silicone.
 
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