McCormick-Deering W4 clutch

Sambear

New User
I have a W4 tractor that will not shift into any gear when running, but shifts easily when stopped. Some have mentioned the clutch disc (plate) may be seized to the flywheel.

A place in Manitoba noted I could choose a replacement 10.5" spring-loaded disc, or a solid 10" disc. My original disc was supposed to be a 10" spring loaded. My guess is to stay with the spring loaded type, but will the extra 1/2 inch matter? Or can I (I hope) unseize the clutch without splitting the tractor?
 
I'd take it on the road, in a safe area, put it in 5th, make it go, push the clutch occasionally, preferrably going uphill, to see if it will disengage. The pressure on it will loosen it up. IF you can, spray some penetrating oil on the shaft before you do that.Could be the clutch is stuck on the shaft and can not get away from the flywheel or it could be stuck to the flywheel.
 

If you have a 10" clutch now, I don't think a 10 1/2" will fit. I'll need to look in my catalog, but I think the 10" is available in the spring loaded version as well.
 
Nose it up against a big tree, block the clutch in the released position. Start it in gear. The other answer is to block the clutch in the released position and drive it it will turn loose if it is stuck to the flywheel. Had an old 50 Buick that did that but there was an inspection cover on the bell housing so I blocked the clutch down, and reached in with a big screw driver and drove it between the plate and fly wheel.
 
My Ford NAA always stuck the clutch.I drove it in high gear with the clutch disengaged,hitting the brakes on and off.It worked,sometimes it took a while.
 
i have seen a lot of pilot shaft bearings and bushings stuck in the back of (or inside the flywheel)crankshaft--makes it real hard to get the transmission to stop . i have split a lot of tractors to fix this
 
In my manual it does note I have to split the tractor by the bell-housing to work on the clutch to replace it, etc.

Where can one find a 10" spring-loaded disc?
 

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