leaky axle/Ford truck

jay-eye-see · Feb 25, 2009

I changed oil/filter in my 01 Ranger 4x4 a couple weeks ago and noted the pinion seal on the front axle is leaking. It would seem easy to just move the driveshaft to the side and pull the yoke and replace the $13 seal. Someone said I should pull the cover to replace a crush bushing however pulling the cover requires dropping the whole housing as it is very close to the front crossmember. So I quess my question is if I pull the yoke and replace the seal, how do I gauge preload apon reassembly? thanks for any thoughts

the tractor vet · Feb 25, 2009

That is the problem with crush spacers Once they are crushed to set the rolling preload on the pinion bearings your sorts screwed . As when ya go to put the yoke back on the crush spacer will keep on crushing and you will never get the yoke tight . Myself i have made solid spacers up to go in place of the crush spacer to reset the rolling preload on the bearings . Now i am not really up on the ranger ft. end and not sure what they call for for the rolling preload and i am sure that it will be in inch pounds . This is one of them repairs that ya have to play by the book . And they pay them bright young minds to come up with all these EASY repairs.

Bob · Feb 25, 2009

You probably SHOULD replace the crush sleeve (IF APPLICABLE), but I'm willing to bet hardly anyone DOES in the real world.

Before taking it apart, get the "feel" of the pinion, is it slightly preloaded (as it should be) or does it have a little play. Then, replace the seal putting a bit off grease on the lip, and a little silicone sealant in the yoke's internal splines to keep oil from sneaking out through there.

Put a drop of Loctite on the pinion threads and then tighten it up to a reasonable torque, so it doesn't crush the sleeve any more than it was, but is TIGHT.

That's all I've ever done, never had a problem.

the tractor vet · Feb 25, 2009

Also i should have told ya that you do not have to drop the ft.end to replace the crush spacer . You remove the yoke and the seal , then you remove the ft. bearing and the crush spacer will be behind the ft. bearing . You remove the crush spacer and replace it then put the ft. bearing back in then the seal then the yoke then the nut . Then it will take X amount of ft. lbs. of torque to get the spacer to start to crush . When it does you put a inch lbs. torque wrench on the nut and you see what you have . This is to be done with the axles out to get the correct reading and you tighten up the pinion nut till you reach the setting . Then it is sorta fixed till the next time. So you tighten and check . More then likely you will need two torque wrenches one inch pound and one foot pound and the foot pound will likely be one that will have to go over 300-400 ft. lbs. So here it may be cheaper to let the dealer install that seal.

Jon Hagen · Feb 25, 2009

If the axle has any mileage on it since the last bearing preload was set. I would bet it is looser than spec, so you can replace the seal and pinion nut, then crush the old sleeve a bit more if bearing drag is below spec. Never had a problem with that when replacing seals on a Ford crush collar diff.
Only time I replace the crush collar is when replacing pinion bearings.

jay-eye-see · Feb 25, 2009

The truck has about 140K

Kevin Meier · Feb 25, 2009

It must be a common problem for those seals to go out. I was just robbed by a local ford dealer having mine replace. $291 labor $40 for the seal and $26 for a pint of synthetic gear oil. Next time I'll do my own too.

JDemaris · Feb 25, 2009

You do not have to replace the crush collar. Your mark the nut against the pinion shaft before you loosen it. Then, after you take it off and replace the seal, you put the nut back on - at the same position it was when you started (your marks lined up). Then, you go just a hair past.

jay-eye-see · Feb 25, 2009

Thanks for the input, I think im gonna crawl under there tomorrow.

Brian Jasper co. Ia · Feb 25, 2009

Ford states in their service information to measure the torque required to turn the pinion shaft before disassembly. Mark the companion flange to the pinion then remove the nut and pull the flange with a suitable puller. Replace the seal and the nut. Ford also says to use a new crush sleeve too, but I never have and have never had a problem. If you do put in a new sleeve, you will absolutely need the special tool to hold the companion flange. The pinion nut is a self locking type. Tighten the nut until you measure the same torque with your inch pound torque wrench. DO NOT torque to 300 or 400 ft lbs. That will collapse the crush sleeve and you will cause the pinion bearings to fail in short order. You MUST use a new nut. It won't stay tight if you don't. They aren't at all concerned with the amount of torque on the nut, only the amount of preload on the bearings.
Used bearing specs are 8 to 14 inch lb. New are 16-29 inch lb.

gab · Feb 25, 2009

Do it just like jd said and you won't have any problem, make sure the vent isn't plugged.

leaky axle/Ford truck

jay-eye-see

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the tractor vet

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Bob

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the tractor vet

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Jon Hagen

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jay-eye-see

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Kevin Meier

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JDemaris

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jay-eye-see

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Brian Jasper co. Ia

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gab

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