sarter solenoid

Anonymous-0 · Feb 2, 2009

I have a '45 Farmall "H" converted to 12volt. It
came w/a 6 volt solenoid that started her for years. She finally just went "click" & I only got
5 volts out. I bought a replacement 12v. solenoid
that has 4 terminals instead of 3. The two "Bat" & "Sarter" and two "ign." & " grnd."? are not marked at all on this china one. The "kid" at the
auto store said "You can leave one blank, or ground it, it dosen't matter which one". I think it does matter and I am going to try the NAPA/"tractor" store to ask about this. Any input?
Thank you,
Jimmy Z.

Bob · Feb 2, 2009

If you have a "grounded base generic Ford fender-mounted starter solenoid" applying 12 Volts to one of the little terminals will cause it to engage. If one doesn't do the job, try the other.

(For this type of solenoid, the metal mounting base MUST be grounded.)

In it's intended application, the terminal that DOES NOT engage the solenoid is used to bypass the ignition ballast resistor during starting, and will be at battery voltage during cranking so DO NOT ground it.

The other possibility is that you were sold an "insulated base solenoid" which looks EXACTLY the same, with different internal wiring. For this style of unit, you WOULD ground one of the little terminals, and then apply 12 Volts to the other to engage the solenoid.

You know what... how about posting a make and model number of the solenoid so we can identify it?

Bob · Feb 2, 2009

You don't suppose the "5 Volts to the starter with the old solenoid" was caused by a weak battery, bad connection, bad starter, or starter drive jammed into the ring gear, do you?

Anonymous-0 · Feb 2, 2009

I don't work w/ these every day, but I try to look before leaping- check, test, or ask before final installation. Thanx for the detailed quick response!!The original was indeed a Ford, 6v, 3 terminal, w/ "RBM" also stamped into the base that appears to be grounded-
How do you know by looking? The new one has a different style [shape] of base and the terminals are on top instead of out the side.
The tractor connections are all clean. I thought the 5 volts may have just been a bad meter lead ground, but because I left the power on, the solenoid heated up. The starter did not, so I thought I had a faulty soplenoid and the battery
may have drained. I charged it, reinstalled and tried again w/ a starter/charger- it still clicked. That is when I realized it was a 6v. and it finally spent after all these years and me leaving the power on for an extended period.
I did not test the starter yet.
Thank you,
Jim Z .

Bob · Feb 2, 2009

Does the pushbutton starter switch have two wires going to it, or just one?

If the starter switch only has ONE wire going to it, and GROUNDS this wire to make the solenoid engage, you need a special type of solenoid, as used on older Ford vehicles and tractors that engages when the small "start" terminal is GROUNDED by the pushbutton starter switch. Post back, if that is what you have.

Anonymous-0 · Feb 2, 2009

It is a "custom" switch job- an old car light switch. Pull to mid position, then turn. I'll have to check the wiring configuration at the earliest daylight possibility. Again, thanx for the help!!
Jim Z.

George G · Feb 3, 2009

diagram

Anonymous-0 · Feb 3, 2009

Thanks for the help guys!!
One more thing- it has a generator instead of an
alternator.
Thank you very much for your time and effort! This will get me going in the right direction.
Jim Z.

sarter solenoid

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