hay wagon stringers

Hi guys. I have the wagon shortened to 12ft. so it"ll end up being a 16ft deck when done (2ft overhang per end). I needed 8 inch tall stringers to clear the braces that are there, so I bought 6 2x8x16ft treated boards. I am planning on running 3 per side as a stringer..how should I attach them together so they are sturdy? Thanks again for the help.
 
Gorilla Glue and Screws!!!

We built our last 3 20' hay wagons using 2x12's arranged to laminated 20' stringers from a mixture of 8, 10, and 12' boards.

Jim
 
For the greatest strength put 1/2 plywood between them with nails/screws glued together and you will have a laminated stringer that will never cause any problems.
 
you want to bolt the stringers down to both back braces and only one front brace or use a short chain around the front brace
if you bolt it on all four corners it has to twist with the running gear
one front corner loose lessens how much twist
both front corners loose lets you raise the front up to dump the wagon
Ron
 
I would have used 1 piece rough cut white oak if it were mine. You will break the wagon chassis before those break, And the one guy is right about attaching the front loose. There is a lot of twist on wagons. The other thing is if you use those treated boards use NORMAL regular old fashoined wood screws, not those new type for drilldriving deck boards. Get much side force on those and they snap (like when the wagon flexes).
 
Do you guys think the plywood/wood glue method would add much more strength to it? Also, what length screws....regular wood screws or carriage bolts going all the way through....and how far apart? (lot of questions, sorry).
 
It has been my experience that you will have alot more stable set up if you have a little more overhang at the rear. Don't ask me why but it just seems to work . Maybe somebody else can shed more light on this.

Gary
 
For what you've got, glue & bolts. I would maybe do 2 2x8' with the plywood in between and that would be more than enough to hold a load of hay. Go every 2-3 feet or so with a bolt- I use 3/8. Threaded rod works too.

To fasten the rack to the gear, I tie opposite corners of the rack to the gear. I like to use chain, leave it a little loose so it can float a little bit.

Donovan from Wisconsin
 
That reminds me of one time when I was a kid and I loaded too many bales too high in the back of the wagon and the front of the rack came up in the air. Either the front was never fastened or it came loose. Front chains sound like a good idea.
 
If you really want it to hold together place the stringers against the bolsters. Then cut a piece of plank as wide as the stringers are high between them with a 1/2" rod through the whole thing next to the cross piece tighten the rod up this will make a sort of box and the sringers wont tip over sideways under load. The stringers must be tight to the bolsters. A little taper from front to back in width is good so you can push them till tight on bolsters before the chain is added to the corners. The wider the stringers are the better too.
 
Lots of good advice here re: construction. Triple 2x8 are what mine are, and what caterpillar guy says about cross braces, so they don"t tip over. Very important. My stringers are just spiked together, bolts are even better. Don"t go with anything lighter- few bucks now gives many years of strength and stability. Easier to do it now- two of mine I had to reinforce years later- no fun to add the third 2x8!
 

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