Leaking loaded tires what to do?

relaurain

Member
Well, my rear tires are leaking fluid (just a little) around the stems and there is rust forming. I have read that one must move pretty quickly once a leak starts or the whole rim can rust away. What is the procedure for getting the cloride out? I'm thinking of just putting the valve towards the bottom and pulling the valve out, then catching the fluid in buckets to use on my sidewalks and such. I probably have to buy new tubes and paint the inside of the rims and everything? Won't be loading them again I don't think. I do have a bucket on this tractor and it pulls like a champ with the tires loaded but most of the heavy work is done now. What would you do?
 
If it was me,I would call a tire service person to fix it.If it's just the stem,they can fix it pretty quickly,if it needs a new tube,that too.Also,the fluid can be saved,they just pump it out and usually re-use it.
 
If it is coming from the inside and not the stem the tube needs patched or new if you would feel better. Not reloading a work tractor would be a kin to putting new valve cover gaskets on to stop oil from leaking and not putting oil back in the engine to make sure you will not have an oil leak problem again. The calcium is not your problem the leak is.
If the fluid was not in the tube you would most likely have a flat to blow up ever coupla days from the pin hole.
 
If you have a loader on a tractor then ya best have loaded tire as there is no way you can equal that weight with iron and with out weight you are skirten with a disaster and could vary easealy be hurt or killed when it flips over on ya. SO fix or replace the tube clean up the rim and repaint it . It is not going to rust out before your vary eyes in the next day or two.
 
Here is what I would try first. Jack the tire up and rotate the valve stem to the top. At that time you can let the air out and not lose the chloride. I would replace the end that has the valve core in it. You can buy the inner core from any tire dealer. Remove the old one and replace with a new one and then add air to recommended pressure. Rotate tire so that the valve stem is at the bottom and wash with lots of water and then dry it off. If that fixes it then great and life is good , if it still leaks then the leak is on the metal part of the inner tube and it will have to be replaced. Personally I would keep the chloride or if not you will probably want to buy iron weights. Bud
 
Time to pull the tires and tubes then cleanup and re-paint the rims if there are not too rotten.
Then get rid of the calcium chloride and replace it with windshield washer fluid or rimguard/beat juice.
Iron weight is ideal but can be more expensive than liquid ballast. I would however wager a bet that. A 1000lbs of iron ballast on a dry tire will outpull the identical tire carrying 1000lbs of liquid ballast.
Remember a tire really shouldn't be filled higher then 1/2 way axle height with liquid ballast. And certainly never higher than the "top of the rim".
A too full tire looses rather than gains traction. It also rides rougher and is more prone to failure.
 
I'm with Phillipd. Have it done right. What they charge you will bite but you'll save money in the long run. Jim
 

Joe,

I had a flat tire this week. 16.9 x 28, no liquid ballast. Took the rim off myself, took tire to tire man, hole from nail or stick, cost $35. Brought back and reinstalled tire myself.

KEH
 
(quoted from post at 12:32:40 01/25/09) Your right about calling an expert, but have you checked what they charge ? == my goodness, they are expensive these days.

Now, now, everyone has to make a living. :)

On the serious side, if possible you can take the tractor to the tire dealer and save quite a bit towards the bill. I agree that if you have a loader you will regret leaving the ballast out. But if you do make sure you take it out of both tires, it is dangerous to have only one loaded. And if you do try to catch it in bucket it won't work as you think. Even if the tire is deflated the fluid comes out in a good long stream. BTDT more than I would like to admit. You will want to put a hose over the stem and turn the tire down. And put the other end in a barrel not buckets because there is more in there than you realize.

And lastly, I will challenge the idea that a cast weighted tractor will pull more than a loaded tire of the same weight if we are talking bias tires. Experience has shown me otherwise. And the better ride is the reason. Ballast takes the bounce out of the tire allowing it to stick to the ground better. IMHO
 
i would drain the tire, dismount, clean and repaint the inside of the rims. i use por-15 on the inside rims. brush on 2 coats, tough as nails, chloride wont affect it if you get a leaker. pick up the fill adapter from either napa or your farm store, some garden hose and a drill powered pump (about 10 dollars or so, home depot) pump the chloride into plastic drums, (i have an old 100 gallon plastic sprayer tank that i use.) i run choride in about 6 of my tractors. some have weights also. if i get a leak, its fixed right away. here is a link for loading tires, shows the calcium ratio and how many gallons to put in a tire. hope it helps
calcium loading chart
 
Check the yellow pages or check with the neighbors to see who the local farm tire service man is. Get him out there to fix them.
 
I had to do this last summer on my 1715 had small leak around valve stem . replaced both stems Assemblys dealer told me that they should be replaced about every two years.
 
Most tractors don't spend much time working on hard surfaces like a pulling track. I am talking real life especially a tractor with a loader. You have your opinion, I have mine.
 
Left the fluid out of my tires when I put new ones on 2 years ago. It was a big mistake, had it put back in last spring. Do it right, call or take it to a pro. Most good farm tire shops will remove the cal for nothing, might even trade you the labor for the cal.
 

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