Loader Tractor

We will be filling in a small Valley next to the house to reclaim the land for yard use and misc stuff. I thought about buying a skid loader but they are limited, no 3 point/PTO. Therefore I'm looking for a loader tractor compairable to a JD 2030/50HP. Suggestions for a loader tractor and manual/auto, accesories will be appreciated.If you have loader experience please expand on what you would buy.

Thanks

Art

I would think that you will tear up a farm tractor loader doing what you are talking about??Have you considered a small dirt scaper - 2-4cu.yd pull type? Years ago, I purchased a soil mover 3.5 pull type to do earth work around our house & shed building site. I pull it with a JD 3010. It can turn on a dime, it is very handy, & I doubt that I ever sell it! It only needs 1 hyd hookup. I can dump 6 loads then use the 7th load[full with blade down a little] to shape what is already dumped before dumping itself. It also compacts as it shapes. It has 2 front tires set together narrow on a gooseneck type hitch. There are 2 rear tires set wider, same width as scraper = 6'.

Further to what Eric said- a stout loader tractor can generally load dirt from a pile (ie, as dumped out of a dump truck) and move it, but can't dig dirt out of the ground without tearing the tractor up. Even at that, I'd be looking for an industrial model rather than a farm tractor, and a 4WD is a lot better than 2WD.

I am assuming you will be doing a "cut and fill" whereby you are pushing a hill into the valley to fill it up, and that it is not a large valley. Given the fact that you want a useable tractor with 3 point/pto when you get done and want around 50 hp, I would suggest a 656 International, which is the utility version of the 656 Farmall, and a good loader such as a model 2250. A similar setup would be a 544 International with a 2000 series loader.The shorter tractors have a lower center of gravity, better for working on unevevn ground, and a ROPS should be available from a CaseIH dealer (at cost) for the 656 at least. These tractors had a heavy-duty swept back front axle and can really take a beating. I would add a box scraper/scarifier to the 3 point for weight and to help move or loosen the ground as needed. Another route to strongly consider would be buying a small crawler or a TLB to use until the project is done, then sell or trade for the tractor you want.

Get some teeth on your loader bucket...will help a lot when doing dirt work. I did "light grading" work for a number of years using 4610 Ford (2wd) and a heavy 8ft wide box blade. Hydraulic top link and side link really "made" my tractor quite handy for that kind of job.

Really enjoy reading on this YT site...especially about the older Red Paint projects.

Keep up the good work.

If this is a one time deal RENT!!!

You mention 3 pt, so I assume you are wanting the tractor for other uses afterword.

I have moved a lot of dirt, probably close to 1000 yards over the last couple years with a 3930 4wd.

When ripping down the 4wd is worth every penny. When moving the dirt and the ground is wet, again 4wd is worth it. I think a 50hp 4wd would outwork a 60-70hp 2wd just due to traction.

I think a Ford 3930, 4630 or 4830 4wd would just go. Don't know JD numbers ? (2150, 2350, 2550 4wd) When you're done, you have a tractor that isn't too big. But guess it depends on the other chores you have planned for the future.

Rick

Doing just light loader work such as digging and filling a small valley will not harm the tractor so long as you are easy on it. Like any equipment abuse will kill it before the work will. Take it lightly. You will want 4 wheel drive. Loader digging like you talk about in sand, gravel, or any dirt will not go well with 2 wheel. We have a Kubota L 5740 hydrostatic with loader. It digs excellent and has plenty of power. Hydrostatic tranny makes digging easier. No jerking or stalling letting out a clutch to dig. The new kubotas also have hydraulic cutouts to stop lifting of more than the loader is made for.

My dad did quite a bit of "lanscaping" with a 1940 John Deere A with a single way loader with trip bucket. He first plowed the high spots, then scooped up the dirt and dumped it in the low spots. Don't forget your plow when landscaping.

A properly ballasted (additional weight, wheel weights, loaded tires or on the 3 pt) stout older type of utility size tractor like some that have been mentioned will work for pushing off loose material, rear 3pt box blade works nice on loose material, little at a time, if you are cutting and filling, scarifier on that box blade can help, but all this depends on soil conditions, degree of slope you are working on etc. 4wd is better but this work can be hard on them too, even if you take it easy, again, soil conditions, and your skills are something to consider. Something like this, depending on size of the job can be done much more efficiently and quickly with equipment suited for the work, check out the local rental house, dozer, excavator and or a rubber tire backhoe, get it done, 1 day rental won't ruin a tractor budget much, will save all those hours on whatever you buy, for work you'll be doing with the same tractor, after the earthwork is done, it can be rough on a tractor, lot of variables that dictate how much. I've often considered similar tasks with a tractor or equipment that is a little outclassed for the work, but most of the time, renting something suited for the work wins.

I agree that using implements to loosen the soil works well. I've moved a lot of dirt with a Howard rotovator on one tractor and a rear blade on another. But....my choice now is a skidloader for digging and moving, rear blade for the final touches.

If it's a fair size job a skid steer loader will be a better choice. Once you have a skid steer, you won't believe how much it will do. If you're set on a loader tractor, look at an industrial model. Way more heavy duty than an AG tractor/loader. Dave

If you are doing much fill work at all the skid loader will be light years ahead. They make 3 pt plates (I built mine for less than a hundred) and with aux hydraulics you can use a hydraulic motor in place of a PTO.

If you are getting a loader tractor, be sure and get 4wd. Loader work with dirt kills the front ends of an af tractor. Id also recommend a shuttle shift forward/reverse. Lots of down time stopping to shift, more than you think. I use a 7710 Ford 2wd for farm loader work when I dont want to use the skid loader. Its a good size and while it doesnt have shuttle I do have the 8x4 transmission which is easier than the 8x2 for loader work. Best I've seen are the Kubota 4wd's with power shuttle.