Belarus Starting Problem

I have a Belarus 825. The electronics unit that sets between the batteries was giving off a small sparking action when I tried to start the tractor. A closer look showed that the connector (purple wire) was about to break. I replaced the connector but there is still no action when I turn the ignition key. The tractor is out of gear and the PTO is disengaged. There is 12 Volts at the terminals. Can anyone suggest a solution? I had the tractor running about a month ago but it has been sitting for 30 days. Batteries are fully charged.

Thanks

Bryan

Is there a chance that it froze up? Do you have a clutch safety switch (have to push the clutch to start)?

Dave

this goes against all rules but make sure its in nuteral and cross the solonoid see if it starts easy way to narrow down the problems

Before you kill yourself with that little trick, you will see 4 terminals on top of the inverter box, two will be close together with a strip of metal between called a shunt fuse, verify both of those fuses are making connection, if all looks ok there, then on top of the shift rail, (under the cab on your right when sitting in the seat) there is the neutral safety switch, make a jumper wire and connect the two wires together, get back in the tractor and try again, those switches are known to fail without warning. If you try jumping it with a screwdriver you will burn out those shunt fuses instantly. That box sends 24 volts to the starter during cranking, those tractors start on 24 and run on 12. The box is a big relay that closes the 24 connection to the starter, Ive been working on these ugly buggers for 15 years, (against my will i might add) and the safety switch is usually always the problem, secon culprit is usually bad connections at the batteries or the ground switch. (the switch to your right rear of the seat) if that loses connection you lose the ground to the entire tractor. Go step by step and you will get it started.

I have a 825 also. When I first had that problem, the dealership said I had to replace that black box between the batterys ($160), I did and it started right up. So, in a year or 2 I have the same problem again, this time I disconnected the batterys and removed the connections at the box, (remember what goes where). I took the box apart and cleaned all the contact surfaces, and the reasembled it. Starts right up for me. I have done this several times, usually good for a year or two.
Yes, the main switch back of the seat can cause problems too, I just turn it too where I know it makes contact. I should clean that too if it is possible, but it works this way so I just leave it alone.
Brian(MN)

I was told years ago that tobasco sauce cleans corroded terminals superbly and it does. They use to use it to clean pennies years ago in the casinos and it makes them look like new.

I use a Q-tip when cleaning wire connections and have always had good luck with it. I keep a small bottle of sauce in my tool box just for corrosion cleaning. Sounds funny I know but it works.

I'm not familiar with the 825 but we once had a 520. It had 2 sixes in series, but perhpas this is different.

Regardless, I'd be doing whatever it took to get rid of the fancy switching. They couldn't build simple stuff correctly never mind complicated switching...
I would hazard a guess that a very standard 42MT starter would fit on there in the 12V config. Rewire as necessary from there.
The only Ruski's around here that got along reasonably well are the ones that were rewired...

Rod

Since batteries are in series for starting, just one bad or loose cable clamp will stop starter from tuning, but lights can still work ok.
A few options: as already been said, check the 2 fuses at 12/24 relay. I think they are 20 amp(not sure), so you can rig up 20 amp socket and auto blade fuses to replace them instead of buying belarus fuses. The 12/24 relay can be replaced with Delco truck type 12/24 relay. The 24 volt starter can be replaced with a 12 volt gear reduction starter so you don't need the relay.

DD:

Thanks for the suggestions. You certainly have some experience and expertise.

I"m not at the tractor right now but I"d like to ask for some clarification.

I remember the 4 terminals on top, as you mention. There are two terminals that have 90 degree connectors attached to each terminal. Each goes from the terminal on top to another screw on the side. These seem to go inside the cover if I remember. I don"t see any "strip of metal between the terminals" (shunt) on the outside of the cover. Would this be inside? If blown, can you recommend a source for replacement fuses (Shunts)?

I think we"re close with this first option regarding fuses (Shunts).

Regarding the neutral switch, there is a clicking sound near the console area (near steering wheel) when the tractor is OUT of gear. It's the sound you hear when the tractor is OUT of gear. It produces no sound when the shifter is engaged - safety feature.

There is a 5-wire cable attached to the various connections on the relay. All connections are made to the terminals on top except for the red wire which appears to go in under the cover. I"ll have to take a closer look when I get home.



Again, thanks for all the good info. Sounds like it"s not as complicated as I first thought.

Bryan

If those shunts are burned out, I always take a 30 amp automotive breaker and wire two pigtails to it and connect those to each screw, that way if they blow the breaker will reset itself in a few seconds, normally those shunts will pop if it fairly cold out and the tractor is not plugged in, the load is enough it will burn those shunts. then just zip tie the breakers to something in the box so they do not rattle around and short against anything. sound as though your neutral switch is working, but you still may need to try the jumper if all else fails, just make sure your connections at the batteries are good and clean.

DD:

I think I've made progress thanks to your suggestions.

There was definately a problem with the fuses. I didn't realize they were actually fuses. I have replaced them and now the relay sounds like it is picking up. The tractor still won't start however.

I put a meter on the starter and there are 12 volts present. When I turn the switch, the input drops to 0 volts.

I must have it wired wrong. I would expect to see 24 volts at the starter when I turn the key.

I'm sure I put the 5 connections back exactly the way they came off (I even took a picture of it beforehand). I cleaned up all the contacts inside and out.

Do you know how to verify if the wiring is mapped correctly? I have attached a photo.

If the colors are hard to see in the photo, the left shows two termianls (Purple and Green). The right shows 3 (White,Red and Orange). The white and Purple are on the shunt fuse connection points. The picture is before I cleaned the contacts.

Thanks for any further suggestions.

Bryan

OK, I found came accross a schematic showing the wiring to be correct as it appears in the picture I posted earlier today (1/2/09).

I also verified that I am getting 24 volts at the starter. Sooo... that tells me the problem is not in the Relay unit at this point. It did have some problems but now I'm further downstream.


24 Volts registers on the meter at the starter but there is absolutely no additional sign of activity in that region.

I assume the next move will be to remove the starter and check for problems.

Anyone have any suggestions what I should look for at that level?

Thanks again

Bryan

hi i have a 862d burnt out the shunt fuses but with your help ive read from loooks like ill sort it out but there is another problem when i press the ground switch in and pwer goes to the key but nothing esle my indicators work and it did start but there is no lights no ignition light all the gauges and clocks work just no power to switches or lights is there a fuse or somthing which controls all this